Ariel110G

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So I got red slime algae again for the 3rd time about in 18 months, in all the times I have used red slime remover with no ill effects at all to corals or fish, the red slime went away but it comes back in a few months, I have a 75G tank with 9 fish medium and small, my corals are Zoa, Mushrooms, Polyps, Kenya Tree, big Sun Coral, some Xenias over all softies, and 6 RBTA small and medium in size that keep splitting on me, (that?s another problem) but over all I have to say that my coals are all flourishing, I have a big MegaFlow#4 sump with rubble rock and DSB refugim with macro algae, my skimmer is the Eshopps PSH100H, I run carbon & GFO and bio pellets, I don?t have hair algae problems at all.
I feed my fish only frozen food, I feed them everything. I would consider my tank to be well feed.
So why is the red slime coming back, I don?t want to keep using it even that their where no ill affect, I want to take care of the cause of the problem, I?m starting to think that my skimmer is just under rated for my tanks need. (Not that I have the $$ for a new bigger one)
What do you think?
 

piranhapat

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I don't think the skimmer is a big part of cyano. The problem sounds more coming from frozen foods. Not that it matters much but it's a good ideal to rinse frozen food with RO water. And cut back on frozen foods for a while . If your skimmer is under sized for tank. You can dial it to do more of wet skim. Increase current in area of cyano. Make sure if lighting are by bulbs that they need to be replace if they are old. But cut back on feeding.
 

evoIX_Reefer

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Even cut back on feeding, wash any frozen food besides rods food, new filters/di resin on my ro/di, new bulbs, run gfo&carbon + skimmer, etc. I am still experiencing red slime after 12+ months of not having any.

Just run chemiclean and you'll be fine.
 

Dan_P

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Sorry to hear that you have another bloom of cyanobacteria. No one knows what causes cyanobacteria to suddenly appear in an aquarium and the proposed reasons you hear are based on studies of floating cyanobacteria not the mat forming variety you are dealing with.

Another difficulty in understanding cyanobacteria is that it just one microorganism population of bacteria and algae of a community of hundreds of microorganism populations and these populations are not stable.

For eaxmple, every time you feed an aquarium, the size of some of the bacterial poulations grow and then decline from predation, death and mechanical removal by the skimmer. The bacterial community likely responds to many other changes in the aquarium. And when one population of bacteria grows or declines, the other bacteria populations are effected by the crowding or freeing up of nutrients and space. Cyanobacteria is part of this dynamic, fluctuating bacterial community. The periodic reappearrance of cyanobacteria blooms may just be part of a periodic fluctuation in the bacterial community.

Because of the complexity of interactions within the bacteria community, no one factor is likely to be the trigger. Worse yet, we don't have the test equipment to measure the factors likely to be involved.

Nutrients are an extremely important factor in controlling the bacterial community and continues to be the focus of most attempts to stop cyanobacteria blooms. Unfortunately, it seems to take a long time time to adjust and rebalance a bacterial community.

While the skimmer is a useful water purification method, it does an incomplete job of removing nutrients. GAC is another good purification technique but we cannot see it working or measure its effect. As a result, I think that we are not using enough GAC and not changing it often enough to thoroughly strip organics. GFO is good at removing phosphate, but if you are not regularly monitoring phosphate, levels can quickly creep up.

An interesting but unproven idea is probiotics, the addition of bacteria to consume nutrients. By adding more bacteria of certain types to the bacterial community, you are shifting the balance. Does it work to curb cyanobacteria? Does it only work by continually adding bacteria?

Or will a bacterial communitiy adjust and become balanced over time anyway without doing anything but waiting? I am going that route. i am dealing with cyanobacteria in a fish only aquarium. I am not considering light or flow as particularly important factors. I am using GFO to keep phosphates undetectable as indicated by the Salifert test. I am using twice the recommended amount of GAC and changing it in half the recommended time. I have the GAC in an up flow reactor to ensure good contact. I am also mechanically removing the slime mats because I find them ugly, although under the microscope they are a fantastic community of organisms. Since starting the use of GAC, the cyanobacteria mats are going green, becoming thinner and growing thin, long hairs. It has been over a month now but I guess it will be another month or two before it disappears. I want to give every remedy I try a good long chance to work, hence the patience. If it is still a nuissance after Christmas, I might see if probiotics has an impact.

I hope that I have provided you with a useful perspective.

Good luck.
 

Ariel110G

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Lakewood NJ
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Thanks guys for all the info, I have seen other info on other forums like reef central of some guys using UV to help with preventing red slime,


About chemiclean, I'm the type that like to avoid additives that kill bacteria, because maybe it dose kill good bacteria as well, as the red slime bacteria,
or the good bacteria will come back anyways.
 
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I used chemi clean with success, but if your chemi prone it's cool lol, 1st could be your light cycle is on to much, 2nd do you rinse your frozen food with r/o water to get rid of extra phos.3rd could just be extra gunk build on in dead zones...under your overflow if your using that or even in your lines which isn't bad but....it all adds up : )
 

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