Finnex Heater Died

[alrha]

I got the 500W Finnex heater (TH-500) to replace a Pro-Heat II just over a month ago. It has been working fine till now.

For some reason the heater no longer works (does not heat up). Nothing has changed in the tank, and plugging the heater directly into the outlet (bypassing the controller) does not work either. Plugging another device into the controller works fine.

So it is the heater itself that is the problem (not the controller).

 

[Henrye]

At least it failed off (although you are using a controller, I don't have one yet). I'm sorry to read this, especially as I just got a Finnex delivered and was putting it in today. They seem to carry a good reputation but reading the box they are private labeled for Finnex and made in China. I'm not sure who else is carrying the same heater under a different name.

Still, I've had a Won Pro-Heat II on my FW for almost 2 years (time flies when you're burning money:scratchch ). It's still accurate to within 1 degree confirmed by 2 other thermometers. Even after I forgot to unplug it for a water change and got to hear that hiss of water boiling off it, (still shows the discoloration on the metal), it's still on target +/- 0.5 deg.

I think the problem with every heater on the market is while they do all start out with a sound design, QC during manufacturing stinks (profit motive? get to save on manufacturing costs and make you buy a new one every year). But, if you're lucky and get one that does stand up to spec, you can get several years out of them. The old Ebo's (before they were taken over) had a reputation for lasting years. Now, I read some horror stories with the new models.

I'm only putting a heater in as a backup after the time I left the window open and had the heat off. No one told me the temp would drop from 45 to 20 during the day:banghead: . I know I need a controller, but at this point, I figure I'll spend the extra money for either an AC Jr or RK II. Besides temp regulation, I can't stand having 5 timers running and trying to keep them in sync.

Henry

 

[alrha]

it is plugged into a controller which is plugged into my ACjr, so in essence i am protected via 2 controllers. i would rather run the risk of my temp dropping to 78 with the heater failing off then jumping to 98 with a heater failing on.

FWIW, my pro-heat II was also run out of water (during a water change) and i got to smell the burning calcium deposits on it. regardless, it still works fine and has its own controller as well, so now i have 3 controllers in a row (the pro-heat controller plugged into the finnex controller plugged into the ACjr controller).

 

[alrha]

RC Thread regarding failed Finnex Heaters

 

[NYreefNoob]

finnex heater

i just bought a finnex 300w heater with digital display and control do any of you have one like this ?

 

[alrha]

the problem with that one is that it can not be plugged into another controller for redundancy (such as an ACjr) as anytime it loses power, it will reset to its default levels. Unlike a dial-type controller on which your settings would remain at the temp you set.

 

[Henrye]

Albert, with the controllers in sequence, the AC jr thermostat is actually controlling the group. So if the AC jr fails on, you're relying on the next controller to cut off? I can see the protection from a fail on in that arrangement, but how do you protect the fail off scenario. A second smaller heater on a separate controller? Yet you have the pro II in line on a controller at the end of your chain. Wouldn't it be better to peel that one off to provide backup for a fail off scenario? If the heater were rated for half your volume (under 3W/g guide) you could, in theory, put that one with a controller on a timer, splitting power times on/off say every 30 minutes. This would leave you still protected from a fail on, but still have some heat if your primary AC jr chain fails off. In effect, one primary heating system good for the whole tank, and a secondary to provide backup if the primary fails (on or off, as if either the AC or the secondary Finnex controller fail, there's no power delivered in either an on or off failure in that chain).

Henry

 

[Henrye]

BTW, thanks for the link. Now I'm not sure what to do

 

[alrha]

depending on how cheap you are on your heat, a fail-off is generally not as dangerous as a fail-on. if i leave my heater off, my tank will usually run at around 76 the lowest (the house is about 72, plus the heat from my 1500W of light).
but you are correct, having a small back-up heater is a good idea.i would just want to make sure it has all the redundancies as well, as having 2 heaters now increases your chances of having a heater malfunction.

 

[masterswimmer]

Albert, when you run two heaters for redundancy, you shouldn't use two heaters that are each capable of handling the job alone. Each heater should be undersized so that it requires BOTH heaters to reach optimal temperature. This way, if one fails on, the other (assuming it hasn't failed also ) will only stay on until the tank reaches operating temperature, then shut off.

R

 

[alrha]

failed on should not be a problem if you have redundant controllers.

 

[masterswimmer]

It is still more efficient to run two undersized heaters than two independently capable heaters.

 

[alrha]

what makes it more efficient?
if one dies then you can no longer heat your water up to the desired level. remember, this is for a risk of a heater failing off (failing on is protected by controllers)

 

[masterswimmer]

what makes it more efficient?
if one dies then you can no longer heat your water up to the desired level. remember, this is for a risk of a heater failing off (failing on is protected by controllers)

Having more than one heater, placed in different locations in your system (sump, fuge, overflow) is more efficient because it allows you to control the temperature from various locations. Trying to heat (lets just say 100 gallons) all that volume from one 200w heater in one location is not as effective as heating it from two 100w heaters in two locations. The water near the heater will run hotter than the water at the opposite end of the loop.

Also, using one large heater will heat the water up quickly and shut off quickly. Very short cycles. This quick burst of heat is not nearly as stable as longer cycles heating the water almost constantly.

Now you might say you put your temperature probe in a location far away from the heating tube. Then the water at the probe will stay 'at temperature' better. In order for that to happen, the water at the heating tube will need to be much hotter than the water at the probe, because the water at the probe has cooled off by the time it reaches there. Once again, not very stable or consistent.

R

 

[alrha]

not sure i get what ur tryin to say, but i do see you point of 'wear' on the heater if it cylcles on/off more often.

if you get 2x100W instead of a 200W what do you do if one fails off? the 100W one left will not be able to keep the temp up if its undersized.

 

[Henrye]

Albert, I think you're well protected from poaching you fish with your redundant controllers. I understand your example of 1X200W vs. 2X100W, but, if you have a failure on 1, while the remaining 100W won't maintain tank temperature at it's normal set temp., it may only keep your tank chilly, but it won't become a cold shower.

This whole heater issue is so common that there has to be other solutions. I agree a real controller is needed, but what about quality heater elements. It's time to search for lab grade heaters that don't fail when you look at them funny.

Henry

 

[alrha]

or we have to just stop looking at them funny

 

[masterswimmer]

The hobby grade heaters that are available are all so tenuous (at best). I've been looking into some 'outside the box' alternatives. The problem is, they are EXTREMELY costly. However, I'd have no fear whatsoever about cooking my tank or freezing for that matter.

One of my alternatives is an inovation I came up with. If I proceed with it, more info to follow.

swimmer

 

[alrha]

ok, i now have to ship my heater to finnex (at my expense of course) for them to check it out and send me a replacement.

 

[Henrye]

If you send it back, do you really want them to ship it back to you? Wouldn't you worry it being like returning to a deli for a sandwich when only 2 days ago you told the counter guy what he should go do with farm animals?:lol_large