Unresistible Blue

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jhale said:
would a john guest ball valve do the trick? I could close it and watch the tds meter. when the tds hits 0 that would be the spot to leave it. or does it not work that way?

A ball valve could work, but they are pretty crude for this purpose. Nearly the entire effect of a ball valve occurs in the last little bit of the throw of the valve arm.

Considering your tap water tds, I rather see you add another 75 gpd membrane plumbing in parallel, than store water in a pressure tank.
 

jhale

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Unresistible Blue said:
Considering your tap water tds, I rather see you add another 75 gpd membrane plumbing in parallel, than store water in a pressure tank.

interesting. I was going to get a larger storage tank, 14 gallons.
we use the RO water for our drinking water and to make ice with.
why is storing it not good?
and given the low water presure I have will the booster and permeate pump be able to service two membranes?
 

alrha

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I installed my booster pump today (between the sediment pre-filter and the carbon block pre-filter). I tested the pressure from the tap w/o BP, i get 40 PSI, with the pump (inline before the guage) I get 50 PSI. When placing the guage before the RO membrane (after the carbon block) I get 30 PSI without the BP, and i get 50 PSI with the booster pump (between the sediment and carbon filters).
Looks like i am getting a lot more flow out of the clean output.
 

jhale

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albert, did you recalculate the brine vs permeate amount?
after i put my booster pump in I adjusted mine to a 1 to 3 ratio.
 

alrha

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I tested by seeing how long each takes to fill up a 60mL measuring cup.
The waste filled it in 8 seconds, and the clean water filled it in 24 seconds.
Looks like I am also getting a 1 part clean water to 3 parts waste water (or 25%clean:75%wate)
 

Unresistible Blue

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3 parts waste to 1 part permeate is good. Measure it again when your tap water temperature changes with the seasons - that's when thoughts of an adjustable flow restrictor may occur to you...
 

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