[Josh]

So should we be dipping them in water with Salifert FWE or something else to eradicate them?

[jackson6745]

FWE does not kill or remove acro eating flat worms. There is no in tank cure at the moment (although a few guys are experimenting with new meds). Get yourself tropic marin pro cure or coral revive for a dip.

[Josh]

Right, I have Pro Cure, but it seems to test out as some high density iodine/ide. Is there any proof that this stuff helps in any way? I don't have FW as my wrasse eats them all but I still want to be sure, so how can I kill them off on new acquisitions?

[samksy]

Quote: Originally Posted by jackson6745 FWE does not kill or remove acro eating flat worms. There is no in tank cure at the moment (although a few guys are experimenting with new meds). Get yourself tropic marin pro cure or coral revive for a dip.

FWE does not kill or remove them? then what are they good for? Gotta get a bottle of pro cure to dip future frags.

[Daceman]

Quote: Originally Posted by samksy FWE does not kill or remove them? then what are they good for? Gotta get a bottle of pro cure to dip future frags.

FWE is for planeria flat worms, it really does the job. But for AEFW the only thing out there that works is TMPC and a cow dewormer i think it's lemisol or something to that effect. The best way to go is TMpc

[Daceman]

I don't use it like most people do, i read a very knowledgeable reefer on here that said he dips it in Temp for 30mins, i have never been able to use the recommended dose which is 1ml for every 200ml of water for more then 15mins without the coral dying or turning completely brown never less 30 mins. I dip it for 5 minutes watching the water without moving first. if i don't see any jumping off the i blow it with a turkey baster for 1 more minutes. if nothing then i place it in a clear bowl with tank water for another 15mins watching the bowl for jumpers, it none. i leave them there for another hour letting them release as much of the iodine before i place them in the tank. Very important. AEFW will disintegrate in the TMPC solution,if your not watching the bowl it can seem like the corals is releasing stress slime in the bottom of the bowl when it can really be a Flat worm that dissolved, thats why i watch the bowl throughout the whole dipping process.
with colonies, i do dip for and additional 5 to ten minutes

[jackson6745]

Quote: Originally Posted by Josh Right, I have Pro Cure, but it seems to test out as some high density iodine/ide. Is there any proof that this stuff helps in any way? I don't have FW as my wrasse eats them all but I still want to be sure, so how can I kill them off on new acquisitions?

Josh the proof is in the many people who have used it, including myself. When you dip an infect acro in TMPC the flatworms start to peel off. I like to gently blow them with a turkey baster in the dip to help free all the worms. Every coral added in your tank should be dipped. If you have any problem corals in your tank you should dip them.

As for Flat worm exit, I dosed my 120 with 5x the suggested dosage....doesn't work on AEFW's.


Dace, I'm with you on the shorter dips. I make the color of the dip a light tea color.

[Daceman]

If i find a frag with AEFW, as hard is can be, I toss it.

[prattreef]

OK let's clarify and summarize some things here:

1) FWE (Flatworm Exit) is very effective if used properly for eradicating Red Planaria
flatworms NOT AEFW (Acro Eating Flatworms). It is useless in the latter regard.

2) Dipping corals in TMPC ( Tropic Marin Pro Cure) or Coral Revive (from Two Little Fishies) will effectively remove AEFW's from corals, BUT neither has been proven to kill the eggs. Thus multiple dipping and QT are necessary. It also helps to remove corals from their rock bases as this is where eggs are more likely to be found. IME the Coral Revive is the milder and less stressful of the two.

3) No one fully understands the full life cycle of these worms ie how long do eggs take to hatch, how mature before a worm can lay eggs. etc. so bullet proof treatment protocols are difficult to nail down. It is also very likely we are dealing with more than one species of flatworm and who knows what that means?

4) treatment of corals via dipping is stressful and often corals don't survive the treatments---this is far more common with larger colonies which in general don't like being moved around.

5) The worms can be controlled, but not eliminated by regular and careful blasting with a baster. The worms blow off the coral quite easily and once water borne are eaten like candy by most species of fish. This fact is testament to their amazing camoflauge capailities as the fish don't seem to touch them on the colonies--though I am sure there is some natural predator out there somewhere. Using the baster method is a numbers game as corals seem to be able to handle some level of infestation, but there is a tipping point --and it likely varies from colony to colony--- where the general health of the colony is compromised. If you choose this method of "treatment" it is absolutely imperative that you are upfront with fellow hobbyists that this is what you are doing.

6) I have had the little buggers in my main display for well over a year and have opted for the baster route with great success. This of course does not mean that this is the best course of action for you.

7) yes millies are very often affected.

[Daceman]

Quote: Originally Posted by prattreef OK let's clarify and summarize some things here: 1) FWE (Flatworm Exit) is very effective if used properly for eradicating Red Planaria flatworms NOT AEFW (Acro Eating Flatworms). It is useless in the latter regard. 2) Dipping corals in TMPC ( Tropic Marin Pro Cure) or Coral Revive (from Two Little Fishies) will effectively remove AEFW's from corals, BUT neither has been proven to kill the eggs. Thus multiple dipping and QT are necessary. It also helps to remove corals from their rock bases as this is where eggs are more likely to be found. IME the Coral Revive is the milder and less stressful of the two. 3) No one fully understands the full life cycle of these worms ie how long do eggs take to hatch, how mature before a worm can lay eggs. etc. so bullet proof treatment protocols are difficult to nail down. It is also very likely we are dealing with more than one species of flatworm and who knows what that means? 4) treatment of corals via dipping is stressful and often corals don't survive the treatments---this is far more common with larger colonies which in general don't like being moved around. 5) The worms can be controlled, but not eliminated by regular and careful blasting with a baster. The worms blow off the coral quite easily and once water borne are eaten like candy by most species of fish. This fact is testament to their amazing camoflauge capailities as the fish don't seem to touch them on the colonies--though I am sure there is some natural predator out there somewhere. Using the baster method is a numbers game as corals seem to be able to handle some level of infestation, but there is a tipping point --and it likely varies from colony to colony--- where the general health of the colony is compromised. If you choose this method of "treatment" it is absolutely imperative that you are upfront with fellow hobbyists that this is what you are doing. 6) I have had the little buggers in my main display for well over a year and have opted for the baster route with great success. This of course does not mean that this is the best course of action for you. 7) yes millies are very often affected.

Thank you Randy for breaking it down for better understanding, like always your help in everything is greatly appreciated. You have always been a true helping and honest reefer.
David