Ro/di

[reefman]

I have a Kent Maxxima HI-S Ro unit and needs to replace its membrane. there r 3 diff ones from buckeye, which replacement can i get? do need anything else? i have never change the membrane be4.
will their deionization resin cartridge fit this unit also?

 

[nycmat]

yes i got sucked into that unit as well reefman. if you go onto a few sites and plug it in. try that pet place that fish place they will direct you to the right membrane. i believe its 60gpd. the last chamber on the right is the deionizer. if this is your R/O i would seriously change that carbon block as well. try and purchase a add on chamber for a prefilter it helps with the longevity with those items. also look into some of the units here on MR. they are better then this one and they sell for about $100. teh cost of that membrane is about 80 and then the carbon block is 20 right there you get a new unit and try and sell it somewhere.

matt

 

[reefman]

if thats the case, i rather get a new one for $100 that does the same job or better. any recommendations?

 

[nycmat]

search the site for past RO units and there is a link usually on them.

 

[nycmat]

zanymaster just posted he wants one like yours look at the market thread. yours is kent. also the one i was telling you about is 100gpd rated

 

[reefman]

any opinions?
http://cgi.ebay.com/AQUA-SAFE-AQUARIUM-REVERSE-OSMOSIS-WATER-FILTER_W0QQitemZ150063548817QQihZ005QQcategoryZ20684QQcmdZViewItem

 

[Chiefmcfuz]

Try these guys they're sponsors.

http://www.buckeyefieldsupply.com/

 

[reefman]

thanks,chief.

 

[cali_reef]

Reefman, let me know if you decide to sell the kent unit. I need a spare unit.

 

[Buckeye Field Supply]

I have a Kent Maxxima HI-S Ro unit and needs to replace its membrane. there r 3 diff ones from buckeye, which replacement can i get? do need anything else? i have never change the membrane be4.
will their deionization resin cartridge fit this unit also?

Hi Reefman. From the looks of things you might want to also think about replaceing the sediment filter and carbon block. How big is your tank/sump/system - how many gallons in the system?

Because you know you need a new membrane I assume you used a tds meter to determine that, and that you also used a tds meter to check the performance of your DI resin.

Further assuming that you are on municipal water that is with a high sediment content, you might want to think about one of these three options for your prefilters:

OPTION 1: Use a 5 micron sediment filter and a 5 micron carbon block ("The Workhorse").

OPTION 2: Get an add on housing, and install in it a 5 micron sediment filter. In stage 2, use a 1 micron sediment filter. In stage 3, use a 0.6 micron Chlorine Guzzler carbon block.

OPTION 3: I'm taking a wild guess here, but it looks like you've not paid close attention to your RO system. This option is similar to OPTION 2, but includes some added sucurity in the form of a redundant carbon block.
Get a dual bracket with two add on housings, so your prefilters would look like this: Stage 1: 5 micron sediment filter. Stage 2: 1 micron sediment filter. Stage 3: 5 micron carbon block. Stage 4: 0.6 micron Chlorine Guzzler carbon block.

Now, on to your membrane. Nearly all membranes used in systems in this hobby are of a standard dimension (1.8 x 12 inches, nominal) and are therefore interchangeable. To determine the capacity of your membrane, unscrew the end of the membrane housing and pull your membrane out. You'll see a sticker on the membrane describing its capacity, usually in gallons per day, or gpd. If you have a 60 gpd system, you may actually have a 50 gpd membrane that your manufacturer is recommending you run at 60 psi rather than Filmtec's standard of 50 psi (higher pressure will yield higher gpd).

You can add a higher (or lower) capacity membrane easily. Pull the old one out, slip a new one in, and flush the new membrane appropriately. You should replace your flow restrictor when you replace your membrane. Flow restrictors are matched to the capacity of the membrane, and serve to partially plug the waste line that exits the RO housing. By partially blocking flow in the waste line, they serve to pressurize the RO housing. It’s this pressure that allows the reverse osmosis process to work. So - all systems have flow restrictors.

Let me know if you need more information regarding flow restrictors.

As long as you are going to be replacing most of your filters, it would be a good time to also disinfect your systems.

We recommend sanitizing your RO/DI system approximately once per year. Schedule this process at a time when you are planning to replace your cartridges. Before you begin assure that you have about an hour available, and that your work area and hands are clean.

Turn off the water supply to the system.

Remove all housings and remove all pre-filters and post-filters from the system including sediment filters, carbon filters, in-line filters, and deionization cartridges. Remove the reverse osmosis membrane(s).

Wash housings with a soft brush or cloth in warm soapy water. Rinse thoroughly to remove all soap. Don’t forget to carefully remove and wash all o-rings. Lubricate the o-rings with a small amount of silicone grease and reinstall them.

Fill each vertical housing with one cup of potable water and three to four tablespoons of household bleach, and with this sanitizing liquid still in the housings, screw them back on to the system.

Turn on the water supply a bit, allow water to fill the entire system, and assure water is flowing out of the waste line and the purified water line. Place the outlet of the drain tube and purified water tube slightly higher than the system to assure these tubes are full of the sanitizing solution. When the sanitizing solution has reached the outlet of each tube, and with the outlet of each tube placed above the rest of the system, shut off the water supply for 30 minutes.

After 30 minutes, turn the water supply on and assure that water exits the system from both the drain tube and the purified water port. Flush the sanitizing solution from the system for 5 to 10 minutes.

Turn off the water supply and install new filters.

We recommend keeping a maintenance record for your system. Record the date of the sanitizing and filter replacement, and the reading on your pressure guage with a new set of prefilters.

And yes, Buckeye DI cartridges will fit your system.

Russ @ BFS

 

[reefman]

Thanks, buckeye. I think u've answered all my questions.
I didnt realize how much maintanence a ro/di is.
but honestly, being a lazy bum, i think i rather get a new unit than to disinfect it.:biglaugh:

 

[Buckeye Field Supply]

Don't let me discourage you from buying new - I'm a big can of that!

The sanitizing process would take you about an hour - its about as difficult as filling your bath tub with water.

Russ @ BFS

 

[nanchil]

IS there any plumbing work involved with the RODI units?

 

[reefman]

IS there any plumbing work involved with the RODI units?

depends how u wanna connect to the water source. if u want it connect permenantly, using that saddle thing that punch a hole in pipe will require some plumbing. or u can use a faucet adapter for temp, no plumbing.