Advice on Bryopsis
- Thread starter Mario
- Start date
Why don't you be more specific on the species of the Nudi?
I guess you are the exception of many who tried to conquer Bryposis.
Instead of giving incomplete info, you should get into details w/ pics & assist inquiring reefers.
Devious
I used 2 lettuce nudis "Tridachia crispata" that I got from SWF.com. Unfortunately I don't have any pictures but within 2 weeks my tank was completely bryopsis free. I didn't do anything more than adding them to my reef and they did their job.
I used 2 lettuce nudis "Tridachia crispata" that I got from SWF.com. Unfortunately I don't have any pictures but within 2 weeks my tank was completely bryopsis free. I didn't do anything more than adding them to my reef and they did their job.
Thanks...
As I said, you were the exception.
Excerpt from Advanced Aquarist:
"Most of the lettuce slugs imported for the hobby appear to be the form that specializes on the nuisance 'hair algae' Bryopsis. However, as I mentioned above, there are reliable reports of variation in feeding preferences and reproductive modes reported among the various color morphs, and some lettuce slugs will completely ignore Bryopsis in the aquarium.
Although these sea slugs are often sold as a means to eradicate nuisance algae from reef tanks, the simple truth is that they will rarely perform that task. Very few sea slugs have been shown to control population density of their prey in nature, and efforts at biological control often have unexpected results (reviewed by Secord 2003). In fact, some experiments at using sea slugs for biological control have had exactly the opposite effect that was expected.
Despite our hopes for using sea slugs to eradicate nuisance species in the aquarium, I doubt that most will be any more successful at accomplishing that role in the aquarium than they are in nature. Lettuce sea slugs will definitely feed on Bryopsis, but they will rarely provide a means to completely eradicate this nuisance alga from an aquarium. Unless they are introduced in very high density, they have little effect beyond drastically slowing the growth of the algae. In fact, if you manage to introduce enough slugs to actually eradicate the algae from the tank, they will promptly starve to death once the algae on which they feed has been eliminated."
I guess you can try, but this is not a proven method & not guaranteed to work 100%...
So don't get your hopes up.
As I said, you were the exception.
Excerpt from Advanced Aquarist:
"Most of the lettuce slugs imported for the hobby appear to be the form that specializes on the nuisance 'hair algae' Bryopsis. However, as I mentioned above, there are reliable reports of variation in feeding preferences and reproductive modes reported among the various color morphs, and some lettuce slugs will completely ignore Bryopsis in the aquarium.
Although these sea slugs are often sold as a means to eradicate nuisance algae from reef tanks, the simple truth is that they will rarely perform that task. Very few sea slugs have been shown to control population density of their prey in nature, and efforts at biological control often have unexpected results (reviewed by Secord 2003). In fact, some experiments at using sea slugs for biological control have had exactly the opposite effect that was expected.
Despite our hopes for using sea slugs to eradicate nuisance species in the aquarium, I doubt that most will be any more successful at accomplishing that role in the aquarium than they are in nature. Lettuce sea slugs will definitely feed on Bryopsis, but they will rarely provide a means to completely eradicate this nuisance alga from an aquarium. Unless they are introduced in very high density, they have little effect beyond drastically slowing the growth of the algae. In fact, if you manage to introduce enough slugs to actually eradicate the algae from the tank, they will promptly starve to death once the algae on which they feed has been eliminated."
I guess you can try, but this is not a proven method & not guaranteed to work 100%...
So don't get your hopes up.
I thought I would update everyone on my observations about algae.
Two weeks ago I set up a refugium with a handful of chaetomorpha. The nitrates and phosphates were "0"mg/ml. Note the ""!!! Bryosis was actively growing.
Two weeks later, the chaeto are growing too, with two handfuls discarded and one handful being removed from the 'fuge' tomorrow!!!
IF, as the test kits say there is no nitrates/phosphates, then why is the chaeto growing strongly? The bryopsis is also growing.......
Using aquarium systems test kits. (ordered salifert today)
Interesting indeed!!!
Two weeks ago I set up a refugium with a handful of chaetomorpha. The nitrates and phosphates were "0"mg/ml. Note the ""!!! Bryosis was actively growing.
Two weeks later, the chaeto are growing too, with two handfuls discarded and one handful being removed from the 'fuge' tomorrow!!!
IF, as the test kits say there is no nitrates/phosphates, then why is the chaeto growing strongly? The bryopsis is also growing.......
Using aquarium systems test kits. (ordered salifert today)
Interesting indeed!!!
Thanks...
As I said, you were the exception.
Excerpt from Advanced Aquarist:
"Most of the lettuce slugs imported for the hobby appear to be the form that specializes on the nuisance 'hair algae' Bryopsis. However, as I mentioned above, there are reliable reports of variation in feeding preferences and reproductive modes reported among the various color morphs, and some lettuce slugs will completely ignore Bryopsis in the aquarium.
Although these sea slugs are often sold as a means to eradicate nuisance algae from reef tanks, the simple truth is that they will rarely perform that task. Very few sea slugs have been shown to control population density of their prey in nature, and efforts at biological control often have unexpected results (reviewed by Secord 2003). In fact, some experiments at using sea slugs for biological control have had exactly the opposite effect that was expected.
Despite our hopes for using sea slugs to eradicate nuisance species in the aquarium, I doubt that most will be any more successful at accomplishing that role in the aquarium than they are in nature. Lettuce sea slugs will definitely feed on Bryopsis, but they will rarely provide a means to completely eradicate this nuisance alga from an aquarium. Unless they are introduced in very high density, they have little effect beyond drastically slowing the growth of the algae. In fact, if you manage to introduce enough slugs to actually eradicate the algae from the tank, they will promptly starve to death once the algae on which they feed has been eliminated."
I guess you can try, but this is not a proven method & not guaranteed to work 100%...
So don't get your hopes up.
Well it worked for me. I was going crazy plucking it from the LR and around corals but it was growing too fast. The nudis I guess ate it from the "roots" and it never grew back. I guess I am lucky
rangehatBro, As I wrote, the aquarium systems tests show them as 0, but I doubt the sensitivity of the test. Is Salifert better?
BIG $$$
I don't see any....:scratch:
Mario said:
This hobby is $$$$$
Salifert Po4 kit is garbage.
- Location
- Hudson Yards
I can't afford the Hanna right now (saving for an upgaded lighting system) so I use the Salifert test kit. It's better than nothing IMO. I also recently began running a Phosban reactor and have noticed some changes in the tank. Most notably is the reduction of red slime. I now only have little tufts of hair and bryopsis algae mostly on the glass. My 6" Hippo and 5" Foxface keep it mowed pretty short between the 2 of them.
Does everyone feel this way based on their experiences that Salifert is garbage too?
Is the Hanna instrument the only way to go?
Salifert Po4 kit is garbage.
The Hanna costs $166.00. You are right about the expense!!! Lets see how the Salifert works!!
- Location
- Upper East Side
Personally, since you aren't keeping an SPS dominant tank, I wouldn't bother with a Hanna meter - LPS and softies are less sensitive to phosphates than SPS. A Salifert kit should be sufficient to tell you if your efforts are lowering your current levels - just realize that even when the kit reads zero, your phosphates are still not actually zero.
Additionally, you really might want to think about upping your calcium and bicarbonate levels. I'm sure they're low because you have four clams in there, so you might have to dose more than "normal" for a 26g tank to make up for it.
Additionally, you really might want to think about upping your calcium and bicarbonate levels. I'm sure they're low because you have four clams in there, so you might have to dose more than "normal" for a 26g tank to make up for it.
Last edited:
Sponsor Reefs
We're a FREE website, and we exist because of hobbyists like YOU who help us run this community.
Click here to sponsor $10:
