[fishguy23]

Since Ive upgraded my lighting from T5's to MH, I have noticed an increase in hair algae, I've since added a fuge w/ some macro, changed the media in my phosban, & have started to notice these gas bubbles on my LR, I was wondering if this is a sign of the algae dying off, or is it getting worse. The problem is magnified by the fact I have the tank in my living room in between large windows that get a ton of sun in from both sides. Another member suggested I cover the sides, but.......? I am going to have a lfs test the parameters till tom, I don't think my API kit is cuttin it! lol Any suggestions! Lastly I'm contemplating covering the tank on all sides and shutting the lights off for a couple of days, I have been told if the algae has nothing to feed off they will die, but Im concerned about my corals? If so is it okay to leave actinics or lunars or is it no lighting

	MH Metal Halide Lighting, typically used for high intensity light demanding corals such as SPS. Bulbs come in varieties of spectrums (7k, 10k,20k), and intensity (175W, 250W, 400W).

[ZANYMASTER]

The change in spectrum must of triggered the hair algae in my opinion.Try using a Salifert test kit or Hanna but very expensive.

[fishguy23]

ANy suggestions, the sides where the tank is exposed to direct sun is where I think it began, find myself scraping the sides and front corners constantly, I cant move the tank so should I paint the sides w/ krylon? lol

[KathyC]

You can either paint them using a brush on paint or purchase the sheet background in a solid color thst they sell at the LFS in case you ever decide to upgrade or sell the tank.
It is suggested that you do not place a tank so close to windows due to the issue you are having now which will also probably add heat to the tank and also in the wintertime when cooler air in that area might also be a challenge to control so your temp doesn't fluctuate.

I think the bubbles are created by the algae on the rocks, though I can't explain the merchanics of it. You might want to get some astrea snails

Oh..and invest in some getter quality test kits...Elos, Salifert...

[basiab]

Shutting the lights will not solve the problem and it may your corals. Leaving on lunar lights will not help your corals. In any case, as soon as you go back to using the lights the algae will return. Light is a big factor in algae but they need more than light to thrive they need food (pollutants in the water like phosphates etc). So why did it start now when you changed the lights? Can't really know but my guess would be that the extra light gave it the extra kick it needed to grow. So figure out how to deprive it of 'food'. Or get rid of the corals, go with lunar lights and get fish that like it dim like cardinals.

[mstrofdisaster]

Quote: Originally Posted by fishguy23 Since Ive upgraded my lighting from T5's to MH, I have noticed an increase in hair algae, I've since added a fuge w/ some macro, changed the media in my phosban, & have started to notice these gas bubbles on my LR, I was wondering if this is a sign of the algae dying off, or is it getting worse. The problem is magnified by the fact I have the tank in my living room in between large windows that get a ton of sun in from both sides. Another member suggested I cover the sides, but.......? I am going to have a lfs test the parameters till tom, I don't think my API kit is cuttin it! lol Any suggestions! Lastly I'm contemplating covering the tank on all sides and shutting the lights off for a couple of days, I have been told if the algae has nothing to feed off they will die, but Im concerned about my corals? If so is it okay to leave actinics or lunars or is it no lighting

How long is your lighting cycle with the new MH lighting? You may need to cut back a few hours as these new, more powerful lights may be fueling this algae growth.

You also mention 'gas bubbles' on your live rock. If you are not familiar with Cyanobacteria I suggest you search the site and see if any pics match what you're seeing in your tank.

	MH Metal Halide Lighting, typically used for high intensity light demanding corals such as SPS. Bulbs come in varieties of spectrums (7k, 10k,20k), and intensity (175W, 250W, 400W).

[meschaefer]

You absolutely can cut back the lights for a few days to help get the algae under control. A couple of months ago I had an algae outbreak and cut the lights for almost a week. None of my SPS where effected, if you look around on RC many people do this. Even high light corals will be absolutely fine. (they go through worse shipping)

Before I did that I would go in, and manually remove as much of the alage as you possible can. If is a small tank, I would manually remove the rock and take a tooth brush to them and then rinse them off (in salt water) before putting them back. Then do the lights off, followed by a couple of large water changes. I would do a large water change every two days during the lights off period, followed by a large change after you go back to lights on. Then fresh phosban. The water changes are an absolute must, when the alage dies it will release all of its stored nutirents back into the system.

The new MH lights contributed to this, but are not the root cause nor is the sunlight exposure. You have excess nutrients (primarily phosphates and nitrates to a lesser degree) in your tank that need to be dealt with. Before I can give you any more help, I need the following information.

1. The size of your tank, and sump
2. The number and type of fish you have
3. The type of filtration that you use
4. What you feed your tank and how much
5. All of your test kit readings.
6. you lighting cycle, the number of bulbs you use, their size and type.

	MH Metal Halide Lighting, typically used for high intensity light demanding corals such as SPS. Bulbs come in varieties of spectrums (7k, 10k,20k), and intensity (175W, 250W, 400W).

	SPS Small Polyped Scleractinians - Sometimes known as Small Polyped Stony corals. These are hard corals that have extremely small polyps. They are typically on the difficult side and require Metal Halide lighting or dense Power Compact or T5 arrays. These corals are prized for their rareness and ability to be easily fragged into multiple colonies.

[fishguy23]

I've reduced the lighting schedule to 5 hours, and yes it is not cyano, I had read a thread on another forum that suggested these gas lookijng bubbles are a sign of the algae dying? Cant seem to find it, but will post again to confirm fact ot fiction! As for shutting down the lighting for a day or 2, how drastic or fatal can that be for my corals, when normally they are shipped in a plastic bag, box and other material w/ no light, for at least 1-2 days?

[fishguy23]

Hey Kathy, eventually I will invest in a solid testing kit, but for now I have the convenience of walking less than 1/2 a block to an lfs, and test the water for free. Of course it would be more convenient to test when I want,but for now its not on my top priority list, Im just trying to get rid of this algae! lol

[da5speed]

I have the same problem and no phosphates in the tank But i think its due to the fact that i get more natural light in the room in the summer