Phosphate Test Results

[nyc reefer]

Used a Hanna Phosphate Colorimeter HI-713 got a result of 0.08PPM was wondering if this is excessively high. I only have (3) fishes, a 4" hippo tang, 3" purple fire fish, 3" yellow goby, 1- pistol shrimp, 1- cleaner shrimp, and a CUC, approx 10 multi polyp zoa frags, 5 - single mushrooms/rics frags, and another 5- LPS frags (torch, hammers, frog spawn, toadstool) total water volume including sump, 65ga.

I just did a large 15ga water change, started a reactor w/ Reef Interest All in One Biopellets (300ml) today, have a reactor w/GFO (300ml) running since approx a month ago. I know patience and wYer changes will yield the result I'm looking for. Should I stop the GFO reactor since I'm now using the biopellets? Please advise what I can do to reduce my phosphates.

I have checked my RODI's output and its zero after the resin media, I check it coming out of my water bucket and somehow read 2 TDS, I use Lowes blue buckets, I think they are leaching because I have 0 out of the RODI then with my handheld meter 2 TDS in the bucket. I'm going to buy a good grade brute garbage can today.

 

[ZippysFunLand]

I usually make about 4 gallons of extra rodi water for top off when i'm doing my water changes, but I find that sometimes I run out and I have been using tap water for top off. (Gasp... I know...) Since I recently got a new 20 gallon open top frag tank, I have been using more top off water, which means I have been running out quicker and thus using more tap water for top offs. When my frag tank got some impressive brown algae overnight I did a phosphate test and found that my 26 gallon was measuring at 1ppm, and my brand new frag tank was measuring at just above .1... I tested my top off water and found that its measuring in at 3ppm!!! This means that for every 1 quart of water i put in my sump to top it off, I am giving the tank 100x the phosphates that should be in that 1 quart of water. For perspective, this means that 1 quart of water contains nearly as much phosphate as my ENTIRE tank should hold.

Did a 50% water change on my 20 gal and the algae retreated significantly on the 4th day. Did a 40% water change on my 36 gal and saw only a slight improvement of the algae. I have a few water changes to go before my levels are correct on the 36 gal.

Lesson learned. I picked up a couple of empty 5 gallon poland springs bottles and purchased a water bubbler for them online. Rodi water only from this point forward.

This probably isn't the problem that you are having, I just figured i would share my story in case anyone else is having the same problem that I was.

 

[Spartanwarrior]

.08 is nothing to be truly worried about. Your water change may have stirred up some settling junk. Check it again. Hanna also has a margin of error...I would test over a few days to get a truly accurate result. But again, 0 ppm of phosphates is a dream of many aquarists, not a reality.

 

[piranhapat]

The type of tank you are running your phosphates are good. Even if you had just SPS you are just a very little over. LPS needs phosphates so if you maintain it your coal will also be taken it up. So your over aggessive on GFO and pellets. People even run Soft coral higher.

 

[nyc reefer]

Phosphates

Thanks for the replies, so if I could get them down to around .05 would that be acceptable for my type of reef tank? How many fishes do you think I could keep w/o any problems, and what type. Thanks again.

 

[Snook]

You should not be using tap water at all if it's not running through and ro/di unit.

The true point you want your phosphates at is .01-.02. The colors in your tank will be better and you will have less algee and things like that. The fact that you are using tap water means you are defeating the purpose of using a system.

You need to feed less and make sure your lights are on for 5-8 hours. Most people say 6-8. Play with your intensity and also pick up some rowa. Be careful with the rowa. If you use too much it will absorb everything in your tank and kill the corals too.

If you have more questions feel free to reach out. Pm me.

For reference. I have a fully diverse reef tank with 3 clams( deressa,maxima), spa, lps, fish and all. I also service peoples reefs for years around NYC and CT and sell them corals from my own tank. I also feed almost everyday and run hydras on my tank. A reef octopus protein skimmer and rowa. Rimless tank as well. Hope I was able to help.

 

[ReefWreak]

Whether it's too high or not is dependent on whether you're having algae issues or not. If your tank looks great and has growing corals, then it's fine. If you have lots of algae, then it's a problem.

I would run biopellets/carbon/vodka without gfo, as the bacteria need phosphates and nitrates to fully populate the media. Biopellets/carbon dosing also need aggressive skimming, and I didn't see that mentioned in the post.

 

[Skaters216]

I tested my RoDi water tonight due to my phosphorus levels being a little high (6) with my Hanna Checker and it tested at 4 which I think is high for RODI?
Do you think it's time to change filter cartridges in RODI UNIT?
My TDS is at Zero. Any ideas? Everything in tank looks great all levels are on point but my phosphorus level is going form 6-10 and I've done water changes the last 2 week
(20 gallons change ) on a 90 gallon tank. Thanks

 

[ZippysFunLand]

I could be misunderstanding you, but 6 and 4 are more than just a little bit high. My understanding is that .05 is a little bit high. .03 is what you should be aiming for. Do you have a lot of algae or any other side effects that you are seeing? I'm fairly certain that rodi should be testing at zero. Have you tried using a different test kit?

 

[Skaters216]

I'm gonna test again tomorrow with different test kit, my tank looks Good,clear,nothing noticeable. Do you think Rodi filters need changing?

 

[Boomer]

Then there is something very wrong with your TDS meter or Hanna Checker. I suspected the Checker. You can't have zero TDS and 4 ppt PO4. If you actually had 4 ppm PO4 that TDS should read over 5 at least. Check somebody else's water for TDS and PO4 with your two meters and what they are using.

 

[Skaters216]

Thanks Boomer I will. The checker is fairly new almost 4 months old. I will test with other method tomorrow and let you know what happens. Appreciate the comments and support thank you

 

[ZippysFunLand]

when you say 6 and 4, do you mean .06 and .04? or do you mean 6.0 and 4.0? If its 6.0 and 4.0 then there is something wrong with your tester. My tap water comes straight out of the faucet at about 3, and when I test my RODI water, it doesnt register as anything. Im using a Salifert test kit with the drops and the powder.

6.0 is off the charts. My test kit goes up to 3.0, and if your tank was at 10 then thats impressive. I'm no expert but im pretty sure theres something wrong with your measurements or something.

Another question, what are you using to top off the tank when it evaporates?

 

[Skaters216]

6.0 4.0 nothing wrong with my measurements it's a hanna checker comes with packets you add to water sample that has a line on test bottle. Checker gotta be no good I will update in morning after I test with my salifert test kit

 

[BKLYNREEF123]

You should not be using tap water at all if it's not running through and ro/di unit.

The true point you want your phosphates at is .01-.02. The colors in your tank will be better and you will have less algee and things like that. The fact that you are using tap water means you are defeating the purpose of using a system.

You need to feed less and make sure your lights are on for 5-8 hours. Most people say 6-8. Play with your intensity and also pick up some rowa. Be careful with the rowa. If you use too much it will absorb everything in your tank and kill the corals too.

If you have more questions feel free to reach out. Pm me.

For reference. I have a fully diverse reef tank with 3 clams( deressa,maxima), spa, lps, fish and all. I also service peoples reefs for years around NYC and CT and sell them corals from my own tank. I also feed almost everyday and run hydras on my tank. A reef octopus protein skimmer and rowa. Rimless tank as well. Hope I was able to help.

Rimless tanks really keep that Po4 down.

 

[ZippysFunLand]

I'm curious how it turns out. I've been reading up on these Hanna checkers but haven't made the jump yet because i don't know anyone who has actually used them, and im apprehensive about the cost of the packets. Does it come with any sort of warranty? For the cost of the unit, is it even worth it to fight with them for a warranty replacement?

 

[ZippysFunLand]

Rimless tanks really keep that Po4 down.

Why is that? I would think evaporation would make it more concentrated.

 

[BKLYNREEF123]

The egg models leave much to be desired. They aren't the best or the worst. Your methods and timing are very important for accuracy. Testing multiple times helps to assure accuracy. The reagents aren't that pricy online.

 

[BKLYNREEF123]

Why is that? I would think evaporation would make it more concentrated.

Im joking here. Evaporation is countered pretty quickly by the ATO. If you're not running an ATO I don't know why you're worried about Po4.

 

[ZippysFunLand]

The egg models leave much to be desired. They aren't the best or the worst. Your methods and timing are very important for accuracy. Testing multiple times helps to assure accuracy. The reagents aren't that pricy online.

In your opinion, are they any easier or faster than using the drops? I know that they are a little bit more accurate. The reason that I ask is because I ordered a refractometer, which is nice to have but honestly it's easier to just use the hydrometer. It is nice to have a second, and different method for measuring the salinity though.