How do you guys place your frags??
- Thread starter coralcrazy
- Start date
fernandokng
Advanced Reefer
- Location
- Manhattan, New York
How do you get the detritus out of our sump with a powerhead?
Not sure, but just make sure to not put your lips on the the siphon tube :tongue1:
- Location
- Great Neck
I glue all my new frags onto a nicely shaped rubble rock. This is done by first removing the frag off the medium (plug, disc, flower planter, pog, wall anchor, loose change, debris, etc.) and applying some super glue between the rock and the bottom of the frag. I like this method because I can always switch up frag locations for asthetics, aggression or lighting exposure. Using a nicely weighted rock prevents it from ending up on your sandbed. Also position the rock in the intended location before gluing to get an idea of how it'll sit in the tank and where to glue the frag.
If I HAVE TO use the existing plugs, because it's too nicely encrusted, I'll pop a 1/2" hole into the rock. Some things to note, from my past tribulations:
-Use a tiny drill bit (~1/8") to start the hole. This is easier to operate, because the tip "skates around" less. There's also less chances of rock shattering and hole will serve as a guide for increasingly larger bits.
-I like using a 1/4" next. Same deal as above. Then a 3/8", and finally a 1/2".
-You can skip the smaller bits and go straight to a 1/2 bit if you want. I don't going this route.
-I use an arbor bit to enlarge the hole opening to accommodate for those (hated) tapered cone plugs, like the ones ORA uses.
-I typically do this on rock pieces that are about the size, but not neccessarily the shape, of a potato, so I can move the rock & frag around in the tank. It's also less work trying to dismantle & reassemble the existing aquascape. This is just personal preference. This can be done on most rocks of decent size.
-Dense, heavier rock works better then very porous, brittle rock. There's less of a chance of the rock crumbing and shattering.
-Use a fast drill at a high speed. Don't set it to "Hammer Mode". Also note that slow speeds will increase the chances of the bit edges to catch to the rock. Breakage might happen.
-Wearing goggles is suggested.
-Have a small bucket of tank water handy. Rinse off the limestone sludge & any poor, ground critters after drilling. Otherwise, the tank water will turn into milk.
-Drilling live rock creates a RANK smell. Plan accordingly!
If I HAVE TO use the existing plugs, because it's too nicely encrusted, I'll pop a 1/2" hole into the rock. Some things to note, from my past tribulations:
-Use a tiny drill bit (~1/8") to start the hole. This is easier to operate, because the tip "skates around" less. There's also less chances of rock shattering and hole will serve as a guide for increasingly larger bits.
-I like using a 1/4" next. Same deal as above. Then a 3/8", and finally a 1/2".
-You can skip the smaller bits and go straight to a 1/2 bit if you want. I don't going this route.
-I use an arbor bit to enlarge the hole opening to accommodate for those (hated) tapered cone plugs, like the ones ORA uses.
-I typically do this on rock pieces that are about the size, but not neccessarily the shape, of a potato, so I can move the rock & frag around in the tank. It's also less work trying to dismantle & reassemble the existing aquascape. This is just personal preference. This can be done on most rocks of decent size.
-Dense, heavier rock works better then very porous, brittle rock. There's less of a chance of the rock crumbing and shattering.
-Use a fast drill at a high speed. Don't set it to "Hammer Mode". Also note that slow speeds will increase the chances of the bit edges to catch to the rock. Breakage might happen.
-Wearing goggles is suggested.
-Have a small bucket of tank water handy. Rinse off the limestone sludge & any poor, ground critters after drilling. Otherwise, the tank water will turn into milk.
-Drilling live rock creates a RANK smell. Plan accordingly!
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