chief, the hole on the PVC cap in the second picture is not a siphon break, it is a vent hole as part of the external durso. The vent hole will control the water flow and noise, it will need a little fine tuning after few trial runs. The internal overflow box will control the water level in the tank and no siphoning is required to start the gravity feed thru the durso setup.
Durso...Does this look right?
- Thread starter nanoreefer22
- Start date
hey kris i am planning on doing the same thing woth my tank, can you give a pic of the overflow box from the front, i was planning on getting an arcylic one made but i found that a lee's fish box(the boxes lfs hang on their tank to put fish in to) dimm are 6x3x8 it should give enough linear flow. i was going to attack the bulkhead right through the box and add some silicone. not sure if that is right, got the idea from barr aquatic.com. glass may be better.
anyway , your durso looks good from my eyes, the hole might have to be larger, so you dont hear the air getting sucked through it, minor
also a pic of the loc line return, you have 1 right, i was going to have 2 , but thinking one because of all the fittings needed to break it down and reduce size mightcreate too much back pressure on the return pump.
anyway , your durso looks good from my eyes, the hole might have to be larger, so you dont hear the air getting sucked through it, minor
also a pic of the loc line return, you have 1 right, i was going to have 2 , but thinking one because of all the fittings needed to break it down and reduce size mightcreate too much back pressure on the return pump.
- Location
- 11756
Brend, with HOB overflow you can definately experience a flood with the pump going off then on. Not sure if theres a fix to that problem.
Mike,
I wouldn't use the lees box, cause its probably more than what the acrylic cost me. I paid $5 for a 12 x 12 sheet and it made the entire box. How much flow are you running through the overflow box? RC calculator told me i needed 11 linear inches for 700gph. I can always extend the hole in the durso if need be.
For the locline its all 3/4in. I have a locline Y that splits it into two returns so I can get two streams coming from the return.
Mike,
I wouldn't use the lees box, cause its probably more than what the acrylic cost me. I paid $5 for a 12 x 12 sheet and it made the entire box. How much flow are you running through the overflow box? RC calculator told me i needed 11 linear inches for 700gph. I can always extend the hole in the durso if need be.
For the locline its all 3/4in. I have a locline Y that splits it into two returns so I can get two streams coming from the return.
the lees box i got for free from a kind kid from petsmart. it will give me about 10 inches of flow on 3 sides. i am thinking of using a quiet one 3000 pumps about 780 ph, after all plumbing and distance should give me about 500 gph. my only with using it is how to attach it. i cant attach it by silicone if i cut the back out, i have to cut a hole in the back and put the bulk head through it against the tank and just use some silicone on the back of the box where it meets the bulkhead. i think it should be ok, right??
what pump are you using and system size??
i might use only 1 return and split it like you did, eaiser. did you put teeth in the glass? and what size overflow do you have, im thinking 1 1/4 for me.
what pump are you using and system size??
i might use only 1 return and split it like you did, eaiser. did you put teeth in the glass? and what size overflow do you have, im thinking 1 1/4 for me.
- Location
- 11756
My drains 1.5 inches. Theres no teeth in the glass.
What you could do with the box is just cutoff the back so you dont have to put the bulkhead over the box and glass. You might run into leaks that way unless you seal it well.
You should be fine with that set up. How do you plan on putting teeth into the box?
What you could do with the box is just cutoff the back so you dont have to put the bulkhead over the box and glass. You might run into leaks that way unless you seal it well.
You should be fine with that set up. How do you plan on putting teeth into the box?
- Location
- NY
simike, I don't want to 'jack Kris's thread, but........
How about cutting out a bulkhead size hole in the back of your Lee's Specimen Container and feed the bulkhead through the tank then through the DIY overflow. That will hold it in place. Then just use silicone to 'clean up' the edges and prevent water from getting behind the box.
Sorry Kris, now back to our regularly scheduled programming :biggrin:
swimmer
How about cutting out a bulkhead size hole in the back of your Lee's Specimen Container and feed the bulkhead through the tank then through the DIY overflow. That will hold it in place. Then just use silicone to 'clean up' the edges and prevent water from getting behind the box.
Sorry Kris, now back to our regularly scheduled programming :biggrin:
swimmer
- Location
- 11756
masterswimmer said:
No jack done
. All i needed to know you guys helped with, simike feel free to continue lol, i'm helping toooo.
- Location
- 11756
simike said:
Be very careful with the material as Cali(Pierce) said. It's going to be really brittle and with the dremel you might put cracks it in which would defeat the purpose of the box.
If you want it, I have an extra piece of the 12 x 12 acrylic for $5. Bought two pieces thinking I would use both of them. It would also be easier to work with, its cell cast acrylic.
cali, ive been trying to find a 1 1/4 bulkhead to see if it would actuall fit. i was just going to order the parts and then take it from there. my concern with cutting the back off is adhesion of the silicone and glass and acrylic. i guess if i rough it up a lot it should hold, even it it should fail the bulk head is near the top of tank and my sump can handle the back flow.
oh i thought you used glass for yours, how did you cut it, i dont have a table saw or router or any power saws for that matter, ive only cut acrylic before by scoring it with a razor and snaping it, could work for this since i am using silicone not weldon.
cali , i always thought that there wasnt a good bond between the 2, that it would fail eventually
what type of silicone did you use
kris, did you paint you box black??
also sorry for qsking so many ?? on your thread
cali , i always thought that there wasnt a good bond between the 2, that it would fail eventually
what type of silicone did you use
kris, did you paint you box black??
also sorry for qsking so many ?? on your thread
Last edited:
- Location
- 11756
simike said:
Brett cut it by scoring it and snaping it with a plastic cutter.
For the teeth he used the rotozip with a 1/4inch bit. Forgot the name of it.
scarf_ace1981
Advanced Reefer
- Location
- San Juan, PR
simike i think your plan will work. the only thing is getting the teeth cut. if you are going to remove the little handle off the box try using that as your test. cut holes onto the handle and if it works then go for the box
- Location
- 11756
Use Silcone II for door and window made by GE. It doesnt create the best bond but on the inside of the tank theres barely any pressure on it that would casue it to come apart.
kris, you i asked a question about ge type I and II, both you and cali said type II. i bought a tube of Type I at HD the other day, because the type II said it has the anti mold agent???? i am very confused
from the ge website:
How does GE Silicone II Window and Door with ****BioSeal**** save you money and hassle of repairing water damage? By combining silicone’s low shrinkage, maximum UV resistance and perma-flex properties with better adhesion, lower odor, and greater surface compatibility. Silicone II Window and Door is the gold standard in the sealant category.
from the ge website:
How does GE Silicone II Window and Door with ****BioSeal**** save you money and hassle of repairing water damage? By combining silicone’s low shrinkage, maximum UV resistance and perma-flex properties with better adhesion, lower odor, and greater surface compatibility. Silicone II Window and Door is the gold standard in the sealant category.
Nice job nano, we have the same setup going. I just recently finished my overflow (glass) with 2 1 1/2" bulkheads. Will be running the same mag7 for a return split with locline. I just need to finish the sump. I managed to fit a street elbow into the overflow. My dimensions are 3" deep by 4" tall.
I painted all the pvc with krylon to hide the white.
Question about the locline? Is it water tight? I was only going to have about an inch of it in the water but most of it outside. Will it suck air in through the edges?
Silicone, make sure you dont get the kitchen and bath, I think it contains anti-fungal stuff in it.
I painted all the pvc with krylon to hide the white.
Question about the locline? Is it water tight? I was only going to have about an inch of it in the water but most of it outside. Will it suck air in through the edges?
Silicone, make sure you dont get the kitchen and bath, I think it contains anti-fungal stuff in it.
- Location
- 11756
Thanks Vanceny.
Yup make sure the silicone is Door and Window. The tube I bought doesn't have the label for that bio-anti mold stuff. I got mine at Lowes, maybe they started chagning the product.
If you can't find it just find a pet shop and get silicone from them. Always better safe than sorry.
I don't think the locline sucks in air through the edges, not 100% sure though.
Yup make sure the silicone is Door and Window. The tube I bought doesn't have the label for that bio-anti mold stuff. I got mine at Lowes, maybe they started chagning the product.
If you can't find it just find a pet shop and get silicone from them. Always better safe than sorry.
I don't think the locline sucks in air through the edges, not 100% sure though.
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