vio

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#1 i clean up my swamp (lots of sand + crash coral gravel) 4-6" Now "O"
#2 i use to have 3"-4" sand on tank, reduce to 1"-1 1/2"
#3 i buy good Protein Skimmer (ATB 1050A) clean the cup every day, i use the intake air from outside.
#4 i buy MicroBacter7 from Brightwell Aquatics (dosing every day, direct inside reactor for 10 days, so mean i seed the media) i got 3 PM reactors 2 for media + 1 for Actve Carbon ( ROX 0.8)
#5 i buy Xport Media
Xport-BIO
Xport-NO3
Xport-PO4
#6 Dosing Vodka (i google for right chart)
I take out 1/2 the Macro Algae out + Gfo.
This take me 10 day to drop from 4-5 Nitrate ppm, Phosphate 0.04-0.08 to "O" i use to run GFO (gone) Macro Algae (Chaeto CHAETOMORPHA)
I use to run BioPellets, but i got more control this way.
 

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vio

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Next, i will try Bacteria King (already post pic.) not sure how to order from...
 

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vio

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Correct, if i Never feed, most of " Tank of the Month" guys, they have phosphates, nitrates undetectable , not sure about TMZ.
 

vio

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have You Seen A Change In The corals Also Do You Have To Use All.This To Stay At o

Not really , i see on Mushroom some change, but i second that, any way they have to go (Mushrooms), i buy new fish (last night) i start feed more aggressive (2 times per day) i was doing one every two days , to keep Gelidium, Byropsis sp Algae under control. Stop tonight and see it (after 6 PM) i got 20-25 Zooa's from Jason Fox + more frags.
 

Gracias

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As far as i knopw your corals will benefit from small amounts of po4 and no3 and zero across the board will cause your corals to starve. Maybe im wrong and things changed

Duke is correct - I have zero across the board for several months now and my LPS and GPS are smaller and not looking as great as they used to.
 
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manhattan
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Good Info! I don't think I would go absolute zero but I commend the way in which you did things step by step and listed your combinations to get to zero. I currently run phosban in one reactor then nitrate sponge with carbon in next reactor. Loads of chaeto in sump and overflow. Culpera p. and dragons breath in sump. I dose vodka 15ml when nitrate and po4 get higher than I like. On average my no3 and po4 are at 1 to 1.5 and my coral love it.
 
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I think people get too hung up on numbers. Unless you are practicing a ULN ( ultra low nutrient ) approach like Zeo vit which is a very specific thing, with very specific techniques, zero is both unrealistic and undesirable IMO. Low PO4 is way more important than NO3, but anything in the .05 ppm range is fine ( mine is often higher because of my heavy fish population ). I find that NO3 at levels even as high as 20ppm is unproblematic provided the PO4 is low. It is the combination that is real trouble if high. I target 5-10 ppm NO3 in my system and find my corals ( Acros included) are the better for it.

Shoot for PO4 @ .05 and NO3 < 10PPM and all should be fine and you can stop driving yourself crazy searching for the elusive zero.
 

MikeC

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Test kits are not accurate enough for that level. Ones like sailfert say they go that low but have a .04 margin of error so its still highly inaccurate. Algae alive in system is a sign of what level your at but test kit wise none are good enough. Plus they only test inorganic phosphates and not organic. Which sucks.
Yeah we only test for inorganic. Algae uses inorganic but both organic and inorganic are important. The conversion from inorganic to organic is done by algae. Then organic to inorganic is bacteria and pods. So both end up important as the conversion between both is going on all the time back and forth.

Organic testing is a process and time consuming as well as costly.

Phosphate kits are more of a ball park test to see if your seeing overly high inorganic phosphates. Basically a warning you are ripe for algae to appear. Otherwise its not really useful at all. Someday we will have a far better cost effective hobbyist kit but I don't think its any time soon.
 

vio

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Test kits are not accurate enough for that level. Ones like sailfert say they go that low but have a .04 margin of error so its still highly inaccurate. Algae alive in system is a sign of what level your at but test kit wise none are good enough. Plus they only test inorganic phosphates and not organic. Which sucks.
Yeah we only test for inorganic. Algae uses inorganic but both organic and inorganic are important. The conversion from inorganic to organic is done by algae. Then organic to inorganic is bacteria and pods. So both end up important as the conversion between both is going on all the time back and forth.

Organic testing is a process and time consuming as well as costly.

Phosphate kits are more of a ball park test to see if your seeing overly high inorganic phosphates. Basically a warning you are ripe for algae to appear. Otherwise its not really useful at all. Someday we will have a far better cost effective hobbyist kit but I don't think its any time soon.
+1, my goal was to control the PO4, try to avoid the GFO, i still have the Macro Algae on sump, so "0" is not really "0" ( in my opinion) than i have to use media + source of Carbon ( Vodka) to drop the Nitrate,than Bacteria need both, Nitrate + PO4, now i think i will use some Nitrate to balance, the see how Po4 drop and i may have a full control, list i try. For now i still have Nitrate "0" but i see PO4 go up and down, i gone try to use this product from Seachem. I try to control the Bacteria.
 

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