The problem with LED's is that their spectrum is not as "spread" as other kind of lights. It is basically "discrete".
And as camera sensors are also discrete (2 green dots for one blue and one red, to mimic the fact that our eyes see more green), that can lead to nasty results. Especially considering that the light measurement is made on the "overall scene" the blues will get blown (aka 100%, no more details) which can sometimes even lead to artifacts (like all-white no-detail zones, it depends on your camera)
I have this problem a lot when shooting concerts because of the red+blue lights.
In fact the best way to take pictures of a tank with LED lights would probably be... using film.
White balance is not enough when you are dealing with censor artifacts.
This is a crop of a picture I took which shows such an issue. The light was typical red+blue LED (the result is a pink that makes "skins look good").
You can see that the top of the head is so overblown with blue that it became... pure white (255,255,255 RGB). Note that is censor dependent. In that case, that was a Fuji X100.
When I take pictures of my tank with it (it is my backup camera, but it is fast to set up), I can see artifacts like that on the "cretes" of some of my corals due to the Royal blue Crees that I use to supplement my Radium bulb.
Thanks ducati i will try to check if it will work.. My tank is about 22" deep sobis that a factor too? Im trying to take a pic on some of my corals in the sand
I'm not too sure..I know there are some vids for setting the wn on YouTube.. I'm def not the best at explaining.. There are a couple members on here that are great at it though..