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Location
Long Island
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Currently have a 150 gallon tank on a wood stand I built and stained. I plumbed it the first time but had to cut it out because of lack of unions under the bulk heads. Since I have to redu that portion I figured why not the rest and improve with suggestions. Interior room is 68" x 21". I put rubber floor tiles with a plastic floor liner inside to help. I also jnstalled a bunch of interior led touch lights so I can work on it at night if need be. I have a custom king sump that I will be using with a bubble magnus Nac7 protein skimmer. My flow will be provided by splitting each return into two for each overflow. Each nozzle will be a 3" wide from marinedepot. Additonal flow will be provided by 1 wp25 and 2 x 1400 korilia's. I will run a refugium in the dedicated section of the sump, as 2 x tlf reactors and 1 extra. I would also like a valve to do water changes to make my life easier. As well as a ato setup. Suggestions anyone.. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1375387527.269614.jpg
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Gracias

Experienced Reefer
Location
Nassau
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I am not sure if I am going to answer your question but I have a few thoughts.

1. Have you thought about using the 'herbie' method - just google that title and you get a bunch of hits - the guys at BRS did a quick vid in youtube to get you started. BY far the best thing I did on my tank. totally SILENCED my overflow To do it you'll need a gate valve on your pipe to your sump.
2. Consider creating a manifold from your return to feed your reactors, chiller and this will give you a dedicated WC valve. Try to use gate valves for the reactors.
3. I prefer to have the last foot of the return pump piping be a soft pipe rather than a rigid connection. Gives you some flexibility It absorbs some vibration to help keep the pump quiet.

Try to sketch your plumbing plan and post it -
 

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