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MikeC

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I guessing I'm looking for answers from people who have had the unfortunate dealings with Aefw in the past and now QT their coral before going into the DT tank.

I have read a few articles that say set up a QT and dip for a month also stating that a QT does not need to be elaborate.

Ok well what's not elaborate?
10 gal tank
Lighting
Heater
Power head

I'm guessing weekly water changes after dipping will take care of CA & Alk so no need for two part?

What is your procedure ?
 

james1990

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I have not q/t corals before on my nano but will do so on my 150 upgrade. In terms of SPS I would almost guarantee you would want to use a 2 part or other method of keeping cal/ALK and possibly ph stable. water changes are a must too
 

jackson6745

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I don't quarantine and never have because I don't have a separate stable system. I would rather take my chances with only a dip rather than keeping SPS in a small unstable system. IMO there's a good chance you'll mess up the coral before it even makes it into your display.
 

MikeC

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I don't quarantine and never have because I don't have a separate stable system. I would rather take my chances with only a dip rather than keeping SPS in a small unstable system. IMO there's a good chance you'll mess up the coral before it even makes it into your display.

Rich this has been my thought process also but I'm guessing you have not delt with Aefw?
The problem with just a dip is it don't kill the eggs
 

duke62

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Jackson you are taking a big chance only doing a dip. The way AEFW are rampant in this hobby now i would much rather take a chance at losing a single frag then my whole system of acros. A dip does zero to the eggs. If you doing LPS and softies i would say ok dip and put in but the sps especially acro keepers really need to QT. I am NOT going through that hell again
 

duke62

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Honestly what i was thinking of doing was setting a QT up attached to my system and using a fine mesh or even pantyhose by the drain it would be alot safer then just 1 dip and inspection. Just make sure everyday its free of debris.
 

jackson6745

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Mike I have had AEFW's in several tanks since 2003. A dip and close visual inspection has kept me free of them in the new system so far. I probably should have a quarantine system but It's a PITA. :)
 
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duke62

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Rich hat about a 5 gallon tank attached to the system with very fine mesh and throw in a small 6 line wrasse. When it outgrows the 5 gallon trade it in for another. I cant see how AEFW can get through fine mesh attached to the drain in a open rockl free sand free tank. I honestly was thinking of doing this instead of using the biocube.
 

Jaftica

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I would think the little aefw can pass right through a fine mesh ImageUploadedByTapatalk1376675380.442648.jpg
 

james1990

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I wasn't under the impression you were asking in regards to only having 1 or 2 frags in the entire Q/T.

IMO I would fill up the QT with frags off my display and take my chances dosing 2 part keeping things stable. or even easier use kalkwasser. It's not hard to fill a tank with new reef gold or frags off the display and have them grow out while serving the purpose of QT the one or two new frags.
 

SteveZ15

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I think I am having this problem about qt set up. I saw one of my acros had a few red bugs at the base none where the crab hangs I sucked them up with julians thing I cant remove because it encrusted the whole rock base and onto my display lr. I dipped everything toothbrush base inspect with jewlers lenses and some how I got them.I cant have another tank or else i would set up a frag tank shallow.Hope I dont have or ever get aefw damn.MY mistake is I think I should have double the stregnth of the coral rx but I was nervous how much to add.I am gonna keep looking and sucking them out with the little tube thing..but other than that im effed. I cant get intercepter so I hope I can get rid of them.
 

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