Upgrade considerations

[digitalreefer]

Ok... I've realized that in a few months, I may have to give up my beloved yellow tang, as he will soon outgrow my tank... this saddens me. I like the neurotic little guy. So in an attempt to keep him, I'm considering upgrading between now and then. So here are my questions.

I've got 4 feet of length to play with... this leaves me with quite a few sizes to play with, up to 120 max. I'm thinking 75 or 90 being the most likely options if I do this. Any recommendations here? Do I need to worry about weight at any point in an older brooklyn building?

My electric is not great here, and I don't think I can run multiple halides, but will likely still keep an LPS dominant tank and probably keep the one halide I have so i can keep SPS in the center of the tank. What type of lighting should I consider?

I know I'll need to get a better skimmer and more flow, plus more rock and sand. Not concerned about the specifics of those just yet.

I will keep my 33g to use as a sump / fuge and probably build a stand to accommadate both. What type of return flow would I need for all of this to happen properly?

What else do I need to consider? This is not going to happen right away, (especially since it's been a slow summer and I'm broke) but it would be coming up fairly soon if I can pull it off.

Thanks for any help you can give me with this.

 

[thepudge]

Good luck! As to the lighting scheme, when you buy a new tank keep in mind that the centerbrace can be VERY annoying if you're planning SPS in the center of the tank with a single MH. I overlooked it and the annoying shaded stripe down my tank drives me nuts.

 

[digitalreefer]

Good luck! As to the lighting scheme, when you buy a new tank keep in mind that the centerbrace can be VERY annoying if you're planning SPS in the center of the tank with a single MH. I overlooked it and the annoying shaded stripe down my tank drives me nuts.

Thanks... I'll probably do it with glass or acrylic to avoid that.

 

[prattreef]

If I had to choose between a 75 or 90 given your lighting constraints, I'd choose the 75 as the height is just not worth the few extra gallons. This also addresses you weight concerns a bit, but if you put a board on the floor to spread the weight out you should be fine.

I'd look into Icecap overdriven T-5 lamps to supplement your MH.

I'll leave return pumps to other more qualified folks.

Randy

 

[digitalreefer]

Eric,
Make

?????

 

[nanoreefer22]

Eric,
Make sure that if you do in fact want to upgrade you know how everything is going to play out. You don't want to get the new tank then figure out you can't run everything you have for it because it causes electrical problems. The same way you don't want to have a tank with a few maxijets for flow, which won't cut it in a larger tank.

For the lighting you might as well ditch the halide completely and make life easy on yourself. Like Randy said get some T-5 ballasts from icecap, make sure you get the right reflectors too or else you're just not putting much light at all into the tank.

Getting the new tank is probably going to be the cheapest part of this setup, rocks, lights, even powerheads are going to cost you more. Not to mention all the little misc. items like salt.

Just make sure when you get a bigger tank you have the equipment to run the tank. Lots of people told me the same thing, but for most of my past tanks I failed to listen; but it really does make life a lot easier.

And you know if you need a hand you got it.
-Kris

 

[herman]

Seems like people already discussed lighting and the tank. I definitely agree with the 75g. The 90 is taller therefore needing stronger light.

Chances are that you will go with an AGA or Oceanic tank. Generally the drain pipe is 1" meaning that it will be able to process 600gph. The return is generally 3/4" but flow is never the issue with returns. For the return pump I would recomend the Eheim pumps. Depending on your plumbing or what you will need to power I would go with either the 1620 or 1262. Not the cheapest pump but it will not break your bank either. Quiet and reliable is what they are known for. Since you will be converting your current tank into a sump the eheim is ideal cause it can be submerged.

If you do decise with other pumps, just make sure you use the headloss calculator too see how many gph will come into your tank cause if its more that your drain can handle, you will have an empty sump, a burnt pump and a wet floor. And that sucks.

 

[digitalreefer]

Ok, so it looks like 75 Gallon, T5 lighting (maybe the one halide), an Ehiem return pump, with 1" overflow pipe and 3/4" return. I'm thinking PC lighting on the fuge (or not... ideas). I'd need probably 40-60 lbs of live rock in addition to the 40 currently in my tank, lots of sand and salt, baffles for my tank and probably Tunze powerheads (1? 2?). I guess I should consider a skimmer as well now... any ideas that won't break the bank for a 75?

 

[fritz]

I wouldn't go with icecap ballasts, they overdrive the bulbs and a 660 will pull 3.3 Amps! Forget running that with a MH on your electrical system. I have two electronic ballasts that have the same features as Icecap but run at normal wattage (less heat as well.) You can have those free.

You'll need some bulbs and I recomend the icecap reflectors:
http://diyreef.com/shop/product_info.php?name=Icecap SLR T5 Reflector for 1-54W Bulb&products_id=172
(Holla at Ronen cause he can usually beat prices for most stuff)

I'd start with only two bulbs since you're doing LPS. The SPS you have are doing great with your current setup so don't fix what ain't broke.

I'd go with the smaller Eheim pump, the 1260. Wattage wise (I think it was Cali that was telling me) they're in reality about the same. I have a 1262 and it WILL push more water through your 1" return then it can handle. The water won't overflow but the return section of your sump will become a skimmer. I'd recomend pushing about 4x your tank volume through your sump/return. So you want to shoot for about 300 GPH after head loss. You could use the Eheim 1260 and "T" off some of the return to a fuge and the rest to the main tank.

I have an Aqua C EV 120 with Mag 5 (Pecan's old skimmer) that I'd sell you on the cheap should do fine for your system with LPS, plus you like to keep it dirty.

Forget about getting Tunzes if you want an LPS tank. For LPS I'd recomend maybe the maxijet mod if you want to keep it on the cheap. I'm thinking about modding some of mine so we can make a project out of it if you want. I haven't ordered the stuff for it so (Group Buy!)


Your list should be something along the lines of:

2 T5 bulbs
2 Icecap reflectors
T5 ballast (free if you want it)
T5 waterproof endcaps and standoffs
New Skimmer
Tank
Rock
Sand
Wood
PVC
baffles


Hope that helps.

 

[nanoreefer22]

Ok, so it looks like 75 Gallon, T5 lighting (maybe the one halide), an Ehiem return pump, with 1" overflow pipe and 3/4" return. I'm thinking PC lighting on the fuge (or not... ideas). I'd need probably 40-60 lbs of live rock in addition to the 40 currently in my tank, lots of sand and salt, baffles for my tank and probably Tunze powerheads (1? 2?). I guess I should consider a skimmer as well now... any ideas that won't break the bank for a 75?

Ro?Di?....

Look into ASM's or pick up a Euroreef now with the sale at Marinedepot.com

BTW I think one halide on a tank that big would look horrible. Just because the sides of the tanks are gonna be considerably dimmer because of the height and length of the tank. Just go with something like 4 T-5's.

 

[digitalreefer]

Ro?Di?....

Look into ASM's or pick up a Euroreef now with the sale at Marinedepot.com

BTW I think one halide on a tank that big would look horrible. Just because the sides of the tanks are gonna be considerably dimmer because of the height and length of the tank. Just go with something like 4 T-5's.

Good point on the halide, I would sorta like to see the effect it has... might be interesting, otherwise the 4 T5s might be my best bet. I like Fred's idea on the skimmer and powerheads and they would be cheaper which helps big time.

I'm going to have to orchestrate this well, as the livestock will have to move into the big tank, then I have to drill and set up the sump after this tank is empty. I may have to run it sans sump for a day or two while the silicone sets, Can I just cover the holes in the big tank while I'm waiting on the sump and run skimmerless for a couple days?

I'm also thinking that I want a cool looking fuge, so I may put a window in the stand where the fuge will be and create a nice mangrove swamp... has anyone done this? I'll start working on a plan for the sump soon so I can get an idea of what I need, then start a budget sheet and see what I'm looking at.

 

[scarf_ace1981]

no need to cover the holes eric. just fill the display but don't fill it so the water will go into the overflow. when the sump is all done then fill the display and it should work fine.

cool idea w/ the fuge

 

[nanoreefer22]

I wouldn't go with icecap ballasts, they overdrive the bulbs and a 660 will pull 3.3 Amps! Forget running that with a MH on your electrical system. I have two electronic ballasts that have the same features as Icecap but run at normal wattage (less heat as well.) You can have those free.

You'll need some bulbs and I recomend the icecap reflectors:
http://diyreef.com/shop/product_info.php?name=Icecap SLR T5 Reflector for 1-54W Bulb&products_id=172
(Holla at Ronen cause he can usually beat prices for most stuff)

I'd start with only two bulbs since you're doing LPS. The SPS you have are doing great with your current setup so don't fix what ain't broke.

I'd go with the smaller Eheim pump, the 1260. Wattage wise (I think it was Cali that was telling me) they're in reality about the same. I have a 1262 and it WILL push more water through your 1" return then it can handle. The water won't overflow but the return section of your sump will become a skimmer. I'd recomend pushing about 4x your tank volume through your sump/return. So you want to shoot for about 300 GPH after head loss. You could use the Eheim 1260 and "T" off some of the return to a fuge and the rest to the main tank.

I have an Aqua C EV 120 with Mag 5 (Pecan's old skimmer) that I'd sell you on the cheap should do fine for your system with LPS, plus you like to keep it dirty.

Forget about getting Tunzes if you want an LPS tank. For LPS I'd recomend maybe the maxijet mod if you want to keep it on the cheap. I'm thinking about modding some of mine so we can make a project out of it if you want. I haven't ordered the stuff for it so (Group Buy!)


Your list should be something along the lines of:

2 T5 bulbs
2 Icecap reflectors
T5 ballast (free if you want it)
T5 waterproof endcaps and standoffs
New Skimmer
Tank
Rock
Sand
Wood
PVC
baffles


Hope that helps.

Icecap T-5 ballasts overdrive the T-5's?

And dude this "dirty water" business is crazy. Tap water does not constitute "dirty water", it's more like water thats no good in the long run. By "dirty water" I think that most folks mean a little more nutrient rich water, by not over skimming or maybe taking the refugium only approach. Dirty water is still Ro.Di water, just nutrient rich after being in the tank for a little while. It's true LPS may not like PRISTINE conditions but i wouldn't exactly say they like dirty water. Give's LPS a bad image they don't deserve :irked:. Dean's 65g with a G3 on it isn't a dirty water tank but hell he's probably got from the pics I've seen one of the best LPS tanks on the board .

Btw I wouldn't put a T on the return unless it was really to powerful for the overflow. The 300 or so gph you cut from the pump you ahve to make up with a powerhead, I don't think its worth the stress.

That will be all
-Kris

 

[digitalreefer]

And dude this "dirty water" business is crazy. Tap water does not constitute "dirty water", it's more like water thats no good in the long run. By "dirty water" I think that most folks mean a little more nutrient rich water, by not over skimming or maybe taking the refugium only approach. Dirty water is still Ro.Di water, just nutrient rich after being in the tank for a little while.

I'M NOT USING TAP WATER ANYMORE!!! :irked:
We're talking about nutrient rich water, Kris... My tank has some great growth going and if it ain't broke...

My levels are almost perfect with the exception of nitrates and phosphates... how are yours? Ooops... no test kits, you don't know:lol:

I do plan on keeping the water fairly nutrient rich though, my LPS are very happy.

Now... for the mishap Kris... :givebeer: lol

 

[nanoreefer22]

I'M NOT USING TAP WATER ANYMORE!!! :irked:
We're talking about nutrient rich water, Kris... My tank has some great growth going and if it ain't broke...

My levels are almost perfect with the exception of nitrates and phosphates... how are yours? Ooops... no test kits, you don't know:lol:

I do plan on keeping the water fairly nutrient rich though, my LPS are very happy.

Now... for the mishap Kris... :givebeer: lol

Poland Spring...:irked: It's not much better. Only time will tell :shhh:

I don't test, it's no secret. I really don't see the need too unless your running something where you need to monitor it.

Now whats "fairly nutrient rich"??:scratch:

 

[digitalreefer]

I'll be using RO/DI in the new tank and the Poland Spring is A LOT BETTER. I now have proof of this after testing both tap and PS water.

 

[nanoreefer22]

What did you test for?

 

[prattreef]

Yes Icecap ballasts overdrive the T-5 lamps that is the point -higher output at the same wattage without damage to the lamps. RD

 

[digitalreefer]

What did you test for?

Basically everything but Magnesium and Strontium

 

[fritz]

Yes Icecap ballasts overdrive the T-5 lamps that is the point -higher output at the same wattage without damage to the lamps. RD

Not entirely true, Icecap ballasts will put roughly 80 watts into a 54watt bulb.