How long can corals stay in the dark?

[sun1914]

So after about 60 hrs of darkness (was over zealous didn't want to want the other 12) I removed the covers and let some natural day light into my tank. A lot of the cyano has died off but it could have def used the rest of the time.

After about 3 hrs of natural light I turned on the LED and will let that run for about 5 hrs then back to normal schedule. Depending what the tank looks like after a few days back to normal lighting I may or may not go back and do 3 straight days of darkness in a month or so.

Will post pic later today.

Sent from my HTCONE using Reefs

 

[sun1914]

After about 4 hrs of the LED running sure enough the red fuzz came right back. Smh. Guess, I should have waited longer indeed. Will try again in a few weeks. In the mean time, I picked up a Phosban Reactor, set it up to run biopellets which should lower nitrates and phosphates the more which is what I believe is causing the fuzz(phosphates). I havent tested my tank in months but the last time I did it read 0 but I understand the test kit I used can't read pass a certain mark so though it reads 0 it's not a true measurement.

Will continue to keep u all posted, not to you care but for someone in the future who will Google this problem and come across this thread. Lol.
Thanks guys.

Sent from my HTCONE using Reefs

 

[bkstang]

Yes. 3 full days would be better. The remaining slime is just multiplying very quickly after getting new food (light).

 

[lnevo]

Patience...patience...patience. (That was one for each day...clearly you need some more

 

[sun1914]

So needless to say the cyanobacteria came back and though it isn't on my sand bed it is spreading on the rocks. So I decided to go for the FULL 3 days of darkness. I fed the fish last night so they should be fine for the next 3 FULL days of darkness. Will keep you guys posted.

Ps. Added a reactor running bioplastic pellets to remove phos and nitrates so I hoping the 3 days and new addition will solve problem before it gets completely out of hand.

Sent from my HTCONE using Reefs

 

[lnevo]

I would not do both of those things at once...pellets should be done slowly..the bacteria need time to colonize. At the same time they can deplete the oxygen in your tank which is why usually you start with half and go up slowly. Either way, you renegading it so who knows. Just personally I wouldnt be doing them at the same time. Get your tank comfy with the pellets than if need be go with the lights out treatment.

 

[sun1914]

Reactor has been on for about a week already. So not necessarily starting both at the same time.

Sent from my HTCONE using Reefs

 

[homegrowncichlid]

Back to topic, I covered pavona cactus coral with a black, opaque plastic bag in an attempt to kill it off the rock. I weighed it down with rocks for 2 months and it was still bright green and living well. There was water flow under the bag, so it must have been feeding off the current. The rock around became white and algae free, but the coral wasn't affected.

 

[bkstang]

Sun1914, don't forget to do a larger water change after 3 days of darkness, I would do at least 20%.

 

[sun1914]

Sun1914, don't forget to do a larger water change after 3 days of darkness, I would do at least 20%.

I have a 29g Biocube, 22 gallons in all. I'm doing 10 gallon water changes already. Anything more than that I would be pretty much doing more than 50%.


Sent from my HTCONE using Reefs

 

[sun1914]

So yesterday completed my 3 days and after a few hours of lights being now damn red fuzzy started to grow on my rocks again. smh.

ps.
did the 20% water change, left home and when I can home is that I realized the fuzz growing back. Didn't want to add any chem's to the tank to rid myself of it but looks like I'm a have to try red slime remover.

 

[Fasthackem]

Sun, Elaborate

Just adding to the pile here.

Firstly, don't panic.

#1 problem sounds like phosphate.
Is your Cyano Slime with bubbles, or fur (like a tennis ball) and impossible to scrape off?
They are both Cyan, but have different effective treatments.

 

[sun1914]

Just adding to the pile here.

Firstly, don't panic.

#1 problem sounds like phosphate.
Is your Cyano Slime with bubbles, or fur (like a tennis ball) and impossible to scrape off?
They are both Cyan, but have different effective treatments.

Tennis ball and yes, bubbles here and there. Waiting reply


Sent from my HTCONE using Reefs

 

[Fasthackem]

Ok

Here's what I did to alleviate the issue.

First I ordered ChemiClean.
Ran two round of that including turning off the skimmer according to instructions on Chemiclean and also adding Brightwell Microbacter3 according to instructions.
This stopped the progression of the turf algae.
Now for clearing the existing problem.

Rather then dose like a mad man I bought a dozen Turban Snails and placed them strategically on the problem spots after acclimation. Within 10 days I saw a dramatic decrease in the carpet algae. By 3 weeks it was totally gone.

I did this in conjunction with the ChemiClean and Microbacter3.

Whats important to note is that ur having a Phosphate problem.

How much, what kind, and how often are you feeding?

What's your tank load?

 

[Fasthackem]

Ok

Here's what I did to alleviate the issue.

First I ordered ChemiClean.
Ran two round of that including turning off the skimmer according to instructions on Chemiclean and also adding Brightwell Microbacter3 according to instructions.
This stopped the progression of the turf algae.
Now for clearing the existing problem.

Rather then dose like a mad man I bought a dozen Turban Snails and placed them strategically on the problem spots after acclimation. Within 10 days I saw a dramatic decrease in the carpet algae. By 3 weeks it was totally gone.

I did this in conjunction with the ChemiClean and Microbacter3.

Whats important to note is that ur having a Phosphate problem.

How much, what kind, and how often are you feeding?

What's your tank load?

 

[sun1914]

Here's what I did to alleviate the issue.

First I ordered ChemiClean.
Ran two round of that including turning off the skimmer according to instructions on Chemiclean and also adding Brightwell Microbacter3 according to instructions.
This stopped the progression of the turf algae.
Now for clearing the existing problem.

Rather then dose like a mad man I bought a dozen Turban Snails and placed them strategically on the problem spots after acclimation. Within 10 days I saw a dramatic decrease in the carpet algae. By 3 weeks it was totally gone.

I did this in conjunction with the ChemiClean and Microbacter3.

Whats important to note is that ur having a Phosphate problem.

How much, what kind, and how often are you feeding?

What's your tank load?

Bioload - 2 clowns, 1 6line Wrasse, 1 Engineer goby, 4 emerald crabs, 6-8 hermit crabs, 8-9 nazareth snails.
Feed every 3 days, pellets and brine shrimp.




Sent from my HTCONE using Reefs

 

[Fasthackem]

What's your coral load?

 

[sun1914]

What's your coral load?

Few zoas, some sps frags, few monti frags, anthelia, xenia, green implosion, pink and gold polyp, gsp frag, pink leather, toadstool, torch.

Sent from my HTCONE using Reefs

 

[bkstang]

Actually the instruction and their website doesn't says anything about adding Microbacter (it's Microbacter7 not 3). It says however that the product is completely safe for nitifying bacteria. I treated my tank with Chemiclean and It removed only part of the slime. I don't know why because other reefers were more successful with this product.
I would add more snails to your tank. In 29 g tank you can add around 10 turbo snails. They eat this stuff.

 

[jackson6745]

IME if you're going to use an additive use Microbe-Lift Special Blend Bacteria. Within 4-6 weeks it eliminates cyano and improves water quality. Smells like crap but works very well. You can choose to stay on their "maintenance dose" indefinitely.