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oro50

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Now I am really concerned. This morning, just before going to work now, I tested my ammonia level. I think it's been 56+ hours since I put ammonia into the tank and originally got my very dark green reading.
Well I still expected it to be somewhat green, but I still got the same exact dark green reading? Meaning my ammonia level should still be around 8ppm. I think maybe I did nuke the bacteria in my cured live rocks, + the additional bacteria I've added over the last 3 and half weeks?
I'm thinking the only way out of this situation is to do another water change, maybe this time, 85% change?
Any suggestions, should I wait it out and reseed it eventually with new bacteria or just do the water change and reseed it, and then maybe just see how a real life fish deals with the environment?
 

oro50

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Wow never expected this much stress over a cycle. No wonder I heard from one of the pet guys that saltwater enthusiasts are a rare breed in NYC. Most people can't even handle a goldfish let alone this.
 

edd

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Wow never expected this much stress over a cycle. No wonder I heard from one of the pet guys that saltwater enthusiasts are a rare breed in NYC. Most people can't even handle a goldfish let alone this.

your making too much out of it, you need to be patient.
leave the tank alone and let it cycle. it will breed bacteria.
sit back and wait until your amp is 0, it will happen.
 

oro50

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So I came home from work right now. Approximately 10 to 11 hours after I left or so, maybe a bit more.
I tested the water again. The ammonia test still read around 8ppm, however now the nitrite level that seemed to be just the other day at 5ppm, is now almost non-existent or completely non-existent, looks blue, 0ppm?
Not sure how the ammonia level could still be so high, yet at the same time, when half a day before the ammonia level read the same value, that the nitrite test performed then, could dramatically go from 5ppm to 0ppm?

I also read a big article today on this type of bacteria. I discovered that the anerobic bacteria strains should always have oxygen, and that the ammonia in the tank has to be kinda directed to the bacteria? Thus I am wondering about buying a powerhead and if I just need the device as it is, and set it somewhere within my tank and turn it on, or do I have to have this device attached to some other instrument?
 

oro50

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Just did a nitrate test too about a hour after the ammonia and nitrite test. It ranged around 20 to 10 ppm? So 8ppm or more ammonia, zero nitrites, and 10 to 20 ppm? Perhaps it converted a bit into this less toxic form and will eventually turn into harmless nitrogen gas?
Or, due to the fact I have been using tap water, (though treated with a conditioner); possibly this is why the nitrate reading (though low) showed something?
 

ReefWreak

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:shocked1: :bigeyes: Tap water?! :bigeyes: :shocked1:

Ugh oh. Never use tap water. Period. Unless it's running through a reverse osmosis membrane first, never ever use tap water.

The biggest thing is to wait. Just wait and see. Test in 48 hours, see if there are nitrate readings.

One thing is certain, in a 20g tank, nitrate doesn't go down that quickly through anaerobic bacteria. Realistically, for it to go down a noticeable amount in a short period of time (3 days), algae or water changes are the only thing that will do it.

At this point, you're in for the long haul. Test every 48-72 hours. Go a week between touching anything. It sucks, and it's painful and it's worrisome, but it's just the process you have to go through.
 

oro50

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Yeah,

I wrote above that I did a nitrate reading last night. There was some. I believe the value of the nitrate reading ranged between 10 to 20 ppm.
With that said, I read up on this huge article about this type of bacteria.
My biggest fear is not that I have to wait even more, (though realistically I thought this process would be over by now or mostly over) due to the fact that today marks almost 1 whole month since I started the cycling process); with that said though, yes I know that nitrate, goes down through de-nitrifying bacteria, but besides this, my biggest concern is that the bacteria both anaerobic and anti-aerobic, are all dead, due to the big amount of pure ammonia I put into the tank about 4 days ago?
Since I am still getting a very high ammonia reading, as I stated last night.
Anyway with all of this said
I'm very concerned now I have to start from scratch all over again because, I figured by close to now four weeks, enough of the bacteria would have grown by now to reduce the ammonia I put into the tank to near or absolute 0 in approximately 24 hours, unless as I just said, I put in so much, all of the bacteria in the tank just died?

Would it be better at this point to at least do a partial water change, or least if I still don't see any signs of ammonia going down in 48 hours from now?

As for tap water? I was told by several people that I could still use tap water, even if RO/DI water is so much better, but that I could use it. The tap water I have in the tank again btw, has been conditioned. In other words the heavy metals, chloramines and chlorine has been removed from all of it.

Lastly,
should I get a powerhead to increase just more circulation of water throughout the tank? Can I get this piece of equipment by itself, so that it just functions on it's own?
By increasing circulation or otherwise known as flow throughout the tank, this increases the amount of air being pulled into the water, giving a future fish I have in the tank more oxygen to use?
 

oro50

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The cured live rock I have in the tank also seems to have a-lot of what would I call it?
Very white spots on the rocks? Or sections of the rock that look almost ghostly green-ish white?
Did the ammonia I put into the tank four days ago now really, hurt the algae in some way too?
Is this bad or it doesn't matter if cured live rock has algae on it?
 

ReefWreak

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Again, I'd give the tank another 48 hours without you touching it, and see how the ammonia is fairing.

I would stop using tap water. I have never used tap water in a tank, ever. I would never recommend anyone ever do it.

Reverse Osmosis water is available at any grocery store, and if it isn't, you can use distilled (though I'm a little nervous, making salt last night with the distilled water from the supermarket, the white bucket had a blue hue to it.... Hopefully not copper from distillation condensers!). The best bet long-term is to buy an RO unit, which I'm planning on picking up tomorrow from another member.

This is why saltwater is so expensive, every little thing has to be right and done right, or it'll just be headaches around every corner. The first time I set up my tank, I was really fortunate, and had the time to read read read read read because I was in college. I found ways to get around a lot of the standard process through reading, and was quick to pick up on some great ideas from fellow reefers, like running a refugium or GFO.

Where in Manhattan are you? I work in midtown, so if you're around there, I would be happy to meet up over a cup of coffee or something and talk you through what's going on. I know someone else offered to give you a call, might be worth talking it through with them. Or that's what the LFS is for (which hopefully I get to go to today!).
 

oro50

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I don't know who else wanted to give me a call?

I did get a powerhead. I got a voyager Nano. I am posting a picture of it, because I see a cord attached to it, and I think it's weird I would submerge it in water?
Even though the diagram in the instructions shows that this device is suppose to be submerged in water?

If someone can tell me if it's ok for at least a little bit of the cord to be in water, or tell me something I seem to be missing on how to exactly place this device I would appreciate it.
 

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Jlavine

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Local fish store (LFS). Yes, they are made to go in the water, though it looks a little small. What's the gph (gallons per hour) rating?
 

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