How does everyone maintain their R/O DI Filter?

[gettanked]

Do you know that you can extend the replacement time of your R/O DI Resin and Membrane?



It all starts with your tap water, use a TDS Meter to see what you’re TDS levels are.

Example, my tap water in Carlisle, Pa. TDS reading is 161 ppm, 20 minutes away is Harrisburg, Pa. their TDS reading is 63 ppm, an area of New York is 214 ppm.

The higher you’re TDS ppm is, the harder your R/O DI filter has to work.

When you first install a new membrane and after you flush it, take a TDS reading. Then write on a strip of tape and apply the tape some where on your R/O unit to use as a reference point. When your R/O membrane reference point (i.e. TDS ppm) reading starts to higher, which means your R/O membrane is starting to get exhausted.

Installing a back flush kit for your R/O Filter will help to remove any residue that may form on your R/O Membrane and extend the membrane life.

Now, as for the sediment pre-filter and carbon pre-filter, they go by time and or usage.

The sediment pre-filter goes by discoloration and or time. On a scale of 0 to 9, 0 being new (white) and 9 being totally exhausted (usually brown to rust color).
The cleaner you keep your sediment pre-filter the less you have a chance of precontaminating your carbon pre-filter.

As for your carbon pre-filter, some claim for every 250 gallons of usage and or 3 months time, it’s time for replacements.
The cleaner that you keep your sediment and carbon pre-filters the less taxing it is for your membrane and will extend the life of your membrane.

I consider the sediment pre-filter, carbon pre-filter and membrane all to be a pre-filter for your DI Resin. The lower the TDS reading are from your membrane, the longer your have before replacing your DI Resin.

A 160 PSI Gauge is a useful tool to help maintain your R/O DI Filter.
Most R/O Membranes are rated at 60 PSI. You need to know what your house PSI is.
The average house is about 45 PSI to 50 PSI and is acceptable.

WHAT’S YOUR HOUSE WATER PSI?

Did you know what a mixed bed color change DI Resin is?

The 2 colors that you see in a mixed bed DI Resin cartridge is the same product, the blue color is a DYE that wares off over time to indicate that your DI Resin is getting exhausted.
The golden color is the same DI Resin with-out the BLUE DYE. The BLUE DYE can ware off prematurely and the DI Resin will still have a lot of usage left. This is when a TDS Meter is needed. Go by the TDS readings and let that determine when to replace your DI Resin cartridge.

The following above info will keep your TDS reading as close to -0- as possible.

Part of the solution in keeping a balanced saltwater aquarium is the best water quality you can provide.

If you spend a little you can save a lot.

Did you know that in winter time your water production gets slower?

Take your water supply line an add 25 feet of water line tubing, coil tubing and place in a 5 gallon bucket with a heater set at 75 degrees, your water production will be back up to summer time levels.

This thread is only my opinion and experiences.


Gettanked

 

[House of Laughter]

Did you know that in winter time your water production gets slower?

Take your water supply line an add 25 feet of water line tubing, coil tubing and place in a 5 gallon bucket with a heater set at 75 degrees, your water production will be back up to summer time levels.

I found this little tidbit of info online in a long thread and actually ran 25 ft of ro tubing into my sump between the baffles (stays nicely) - since my tank is at 78.5 and pretty steady, it saves me on a 5g bucket and another heater - AND cools the sump water - negligable likely, but true on the reverse as well. BTW I found that the temperature of the water coming from that tap (underground) doesn't fluctualt more that 5 degrees one way or ther other - so this works for me for all seasons.

Good info

House

 

[Buckeye Field Supply]

This may be useful:

When should I replace my filters?

A good rule of thumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. A more precise way to maximize the useable life of these two filters is to use a pressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication one or both of the filters is beginning to clog.

Also be cognizant of the chlorine capacity of the carbon block. The Matrikx+1 (“Chlorine Guzzler”) for example will remove 99% of chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at 1 gpm. Original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at 2,000 to 6,000 gallons.

Regarding your RO membrane and DI resin, use your TDS meter to measure, record, and track the tds (expressed in parts per million) in three places:
1. Tap water
2. After the RO but before the DI
3. After the DI.

The TDS in your tap water will likely range from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1000 parts per million (ppm). Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere near zero?

If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block filter (collectively called prefilters) do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the water at the “in” port on your RO housing and you'll see its still approximately 400 ppm.

The RO membrane is really the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have a rejection rate of 90% (i.e., they reject 90% of the dissolved solids in feed water). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about 40 ppm (a 90% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce less purified water (aka “permeate”), but have a higher rejection rate (96 to 98%). The life span of a RO membrane is dependant upon how much water you run through it, and how dirty the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, two years, or more. To test the membrane, measure the total dissolved solids (TDS) in the water coming in to the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membrane’s advertised rejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. How do you measure TDS? Membranes also commonly produce less water as their function declines.

After the RO membrane, water will flow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the 40 ppm water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1 ppm to 3 ppm, 5 ppm, and higher, you know that your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin “dirty” water. This will exhaust the resin quicker then would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the problem is poor quality resin – remember that all resins are not created equal!

 

[gettanked]

Here‘s the jest of what I was trying to say.

The most important investment for any R/O DI Filter is the TDS Meter and a PSI Gauge.

The TDS METER will tell you when to replace your MEMBRANE and your DI RESIN before its time, whether it’s a color change resin or non color change resin.

The PSI GAUGE will tell you your house line pressure, which will be your normal PSI pressure for your R/O DI FILTER.

Save money where you can, so you will have more to spend on live stock.


gettanked