What happens if cyano is left unchecked in a aquarium?

[oro50]

I'm just wondering if no attempts are made to eliminate cyano bacteria from a aquarium, can this bacteria over time cause issues with fish living in the aquarium, can it cause issues to potential future coral frags that are introduced in a tank?

What are the best ways to eliminate cyano without using chemcials? I tried to use a turkey baster to suck it up, but somehow this just disturbed the sandbed. The sandbed now looks clean but I know I didn't suck up much cyano?

thanks.

 

[LatinP]

It builds up and makes the tank look pretty bad, it also has negative effects on coral and inverts.

 

[JoeJawz]

It looks disgusting and eventually it will grow over coral and inverts. I had an annoying problem with that stuff. Aim your powerhead(s) at the sandbed and try to reduce nutrients comming into your tank with rodi water and less feeding. Once you do that, shut the lights off for 24 hours. That should do it and be prepared to do a big water change. I did the same thing for mine and it killed it off, but the nutrients let into the water started a hair algae outbreak. Now that stuff is hard to get rid of.

 

[Dan_P]

I'm just wondering if no attempts are made to eliminate cyano bacteria from a aquarium, can this bacteria over time cause issues with fish living in the aquarium, can it cause issues to potential future coral frags that are introduced in a tank?

What are the best ways to eliminate cyano without using chemcials? I tried to use a turkey baster to suck it up, but somehow this just disturbed the sandbed. The sandbed now looks clean but I know I didn't suck up much cyano?

thanks.

Good question.

It might not bother fish, but it looks ugly. It grows on all surfaces and can cover coral and macro algae. I suspect the shading, smothering and blocking nutrients are the reasons it can kill coral. I tried to love the stuff but the yuck factor is too high, so, I continue to try to eliminate it in my tank.

The lights out technique seems to work to slow down or maybe eliminate the bacteria. You can repeat this treatment as needed.

Continue to remove what you can with the turkey baster. It will improve the looks and make you feel like you are doing something useful.

Do not add anymore livestock to the aquarium until you have this bacteria under control.

Continue to feed your fish. Don't starve them because of the cyanobacteria. It is not their fault.

Probiotics like Dr. Tim's is something new you might try. I read about it. It might help. I am tempted to try it.

 

[evoIX_Reefer]

If you don't know the source, it will just come back. How's your rodi? Are you using rodi water at 0tds? What are you doing to reduce excess phosphates and nitrates?

It'll take over your system and you'll end leaving the hobby.

Blackout and chemiclean work well. Again, find the source and fix the issue or the issue will continue.

 

[Dan_P]

If you don't know the source, it will just come back. How's your rodi? Are you using rodi water at 0tds? What are you doing to reduce excess phosphates and nitrates?

It'll take over your system and you'll end leaving the hobby.

Blackout and chemiclean work well. Again, find the source and fix the issue or the issue will continue.

Good advice!

My advice on "know the source" is that the average aquarist does not have the means nor the know-how to figure out why cyanobacteria is growing. The best you can do is try remedies that address what is considered the likely cause: excess nutrients. It seems phosphate and possibly nitrate stimulate cyanobacteria growth in aquariums. This is why GFO use is recommended. The frustrating aspect of nutrient control is that we have very limited range of tests to measure whether nutrient levels are being reduced. These tests only measure a small fraction of nutrients that might be important for cyanobacteria growth.

You might be lucky with eliminating cyanobacteria with lights out and GFO use. You may also be working on this for a couple months.

 

[jackson6745]

Why are there reefs with high phosphates and nitrates and no cyano?

 

[marrone]

I would think that in those situation the tank probably has high flow, but wouldn't be surprised if Cyano was growing in places like the over flow or the sump, or possibly in lower flow areas in the tank.

 

[Dan_P]

Why are there reefs with high phosphates and nitrates and no cyano?

One of my favorite questions.

I presume it takes more than phosphates in the water column to stimulate a cyanobacteria bloom. We are totally in the dark about other nutrient levels in the tank and we have no clue about the role other bacteria play during the infestation. Our phosphate measurements might only be a rough and incomplete indication of the quality of the water.

Recently, I discovered that the water in my substrate has a phosphate level of 1-2 ppm and an iron level of 0.1 ppm while the tank water has undetectable levels of both. I have to wonder whether this situation also exists in most aquariums. It certainly would explain cyanobacteria growth on the substrate. This seems to be "normal" in studied ocean sediments, so, I am not going to beat myself up over poor husbandry technique or siphon all the sand out. I will see what happens when I carefully siphon the interstitial water from the sand over a period of several weeks.

Dan

 

[Chefjpaul]

Water chemistry imbalance.
You may need to check you NO3 & PO4 levels accurately.

You have a very low bio load, meaning your NO3 maybe low, with high PO4 levels.
This imbalance of these two can cause bacteria blooms.
(Happens also with carbon dosing if not done correctly).

There is an equilibrium between these two. & Zero levels is not good either.

Advice (again), is to ditch the freshwater equipment, do consistent water changes, research flow!

Research water chemistry a bit more, especially NO3 & PO4 relationship.

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/8/chemistry

 

[evoIX_Reefer]

I believe whatever nutrient we as hobbyist are searching for coincides with phosphates when experiencing cyano. It may not be phosphates but something that accompanies it. Those with higher nutrient levels are probably more mature tanks Or running things like ATS, pellets that counter those phosphates. Can you point to a tank that the owner shows after x time frame his phosphates are out of whack without algae issues?

I think most that have been in the hobby understand recommended levels and those who are able to be in the exception of the rule.

For every 1:1000 tanks with high phosphates will be that exception to the rule. I know when I let my tank slide or rodi starts letting the bad stuff in...algae starts to grow. I fix the source of my issues (high no3 Or po4) and algae starts to breakdown.

My experience of course. Everyone has their own remedies but I can say from years of reading and constant recommendations you heed the rules, the likely you are to succeed. Yes, things change throughout the years but for now I'll take what is documented through forum experiences. Not as written stone but what may work and what I can try on my reef.

If you had to take the chance of running a system with water changes alone, one running media like gfo and carbon, macro algae carbon+got or even more and more advanced. What tank is more likely to succeed?

If you believe in you get what you pay for in this hobby than same is true For the love and attention + type of equipment you place on your ecosystem.

What are your current no3 and po4 levels? You have a very successful reef. Are you letting your nutrients run high?