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LongIslandAndy

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I started in this hobby back in '78 and I won't tell you how many Achilles that I have tried and gone through, they were a notorious fish along with the Regal angel that were very difficult or close to impossible to keep alive back then. Now is a different story but I agree that these type of fish should be purchased "conditioned" or at least put into an established isolation tank until they start eating before releasing into your main tank.

Warren is right, they are very difficult fish to keep going. If anything I would put him in first and it would have to be at least 125g with tremendous water flow. Even conditioned (to me the fish is eating and recognizing the person who feeds it and looks forward to eating) I hope I am wrong but even if he makes it and starts eating the other group of tangs are rough. People don't understand it is not the actual attacking of the new fish that kills it, it is the constant tension in the tank . Over time one of the immune systems on a fish will become compromised, disease breaks out and that's the beginning of a crash.
Saying that I hope he makes it and everything works out
 

duke62

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It's not even the fish being attacked. The fish can be the aggressor and it will cause it to stress. Even though I have my Achilles now for almost 2 years it is the aggressor and is constantly having ich breakouts. Thank goodness my other fish so far has not been effected. All the flow in my tank I think is helping. It's not major ich breakouts though it's a few spots probably once a month
 

pecan2phat

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Pecan what is "conditioned" had a buddy but a "conditioned" fish when he picked it up it was still in low salinity water and within a few weeks the fish died anyway. I don't think a "conditioned" fish does anything and is just a way to sell a fish for more money

Duke,

My definition of "conditioned" means it has been in a quarantine tank for 10 days to 2 weeks at full salinity and observed for parasite and fungal outbreaks. Treated if necessary and eating at least 2 types of food.
 

duke62

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Yeah that's what my definition is as well. Conditioned to your salinity if you have a reef or a fowler. Just because a fish shows it's eating and no parasites in low salinity it may not show those same good signs in a higher salinity. His was labeled as a "conditioned" fish yet the salinity was low. I believe he said 1.011
 
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Mattl22

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Regardless if u just go to Lfs and buy an Achilles tang and throw it right into ur display I would think chances of success relatively low but if u put it in a decent size tank by its self with some rock to hide start it with nori /mysis get it eating for a few weeks hopefully pellets flakes etc then add to display you have better chance
 

duke62

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Matt that's with any other fish. It won't be fine unless it has serious water movement. I have the gyre at 100 percent and my mp40 at 100 before the gyre it was another mp40 at 100 percent and 2 sea swirls off a reeflo barracuda along with my lfs holding it for 2 weeks in reef salinity I think that have me a fighting chance. Plus my cleaner wrasse seems to calm the fish down. I either got real lucky or what I did worked
 

marrone

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Regardless if u just go to Lfs and buy an Achilles tang and throw it right into ur display I would think chances of success relatively low but if u put it in a decent size tank by its self with some rock to hide start it with nori /mysis get it eating for a few weeks hopefully pellets flakes etc then add to display you have better chance


I would say this is probably truth for most fish, especially the ones that are hard to start eating for the get go or very delicate to start with. Basically you're giving the fish a change to acclimate to conditions that it's not use to, and food that it's not use to, but still the big thing will be introducing it to your main display, where it may have a problem with other fish. Many a fish has done great in QT, only to not make it once moved to the MT with other fish.
 
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Jim

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I agree with Duke about the flow. I've had my Achilles for 3+ years now in my 300. I have 3 MP40's at 100% and 1 MP60 at about 70%. Mine occasionally ichs out also. Maybe once or twice a year but it's very mild. I think another key to this fish is to get them when they are young. When I got mine it's orange tear drop wasn't developed yet.
 
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I got one on saturday . He's sitting in my frag tank by him self he dint eat at the store , I still took the chance . Sunday I offered him two types of seaweed and he niped and yesturday started to accept frozen so he's eating. Looks to be healthy..... Time will tell I plan to leave him there for a few weeks then introduce him to the dt.
 

will424

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Long Island
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Good news guys i actually moved him to a quarentine tank and got him to start eating frozen. He will eat nori but only when it breaks up into small little pieces. I cannot believe how tough this fish is. He iched out in my dt to the point quarentine was my last option and the fact he wasnt eating one single bit. Moving him the the QT tank was the best thing i ever did.
 

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