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80 Gallon Rimless Plumbing

I need help with my 80 gallon deep blue rimless plumbing setup.
I built a DIY stand and a 40 gallon breeder sump.The drain on the tank is 1" and the return is 3/4". I ordered new bulkheads from BRS (slip x slip) because deep blues are flimsy. I would like to plumbing to look as nice an neat as possible, quiet as possible, and as simple as possible. I have a CPR Sock-it in the first stage of my sump, and a Jaebo DCT6000 return pump in my final stage. i was thinking of running pvc for everything except for the drain. Below is a sketch of what im thinking about doing. Please help me out and share any comments and advice that could be useful.
 

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cmantis

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Why are you putting a ball valve on the drain leave it open. If anything put one on the return and instead of splitting the return pump just T off the return line. Use as many 45s (even to make sweeper 90s) rather than 90s. Also put a union on the pump in case you need to replace it. I would get rid of the water change off manifold just seems like a lot of work to shut everything else off instead of using a small pump or siphon.
 

Skaters216

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I would put a valve on inlet and return lines and also put a Union before the Y in case you need to change the pump out. Also I would not put Unions before and after the valve if anything you should put a Union after the valve where there's no pressure on the union if the valve is shut off.
 
Ok, so the I hung the plumbing temporarily to see the design in action and this is what I got. I didn't cement it yet or even nail the hangers in all the way. Once I straighten it out I think this will work pretty good. Eventually I'm going to add a Gary check valve right after the pump which would be on the bottom right piece of PVC thats pointing down. I plan on connecting the return pump to the return plumbing with silicon tubing to keep it a little quieter.
 

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Skaters216

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Why so many unions? You have 3 on the return line alone. why don't you put a valve on the return line at the bottom of the tank also? Like I told you before in plumbing you should have a valve on the pressure side before a union. On the return line if something breaks between the pump and the bottom of the tank without a valve on the bottom of the tank water will suck back from tank down until in reaches a level in the tank below return lines. At least with a valve at the bottom of both lines you can Isolate the water in the tank.
 

cmantis

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I agree about the unions. Worse case they can always be added but I try to avoid them as they are expensive and restrict flow. However your sump needs to be able to hold all water that *could* drain down. What if you arent home to close valve or check fails?
 
Thanks for the advice. Ok, so I guess I can remove a union by the return bulk head that's 3/4". I have a 3/4" union right near the bulk head and a 1" right after the first 90. I'm thinking I should remove the 3/4" union because that's allowing even less flow then the 1". My sump will allow for water to drain back into it from the DT without over flowing. I didn't get a gate valve because my return pump is adjustable but I guess that will make things easier so I will pick 1 up today.
 

House of Laughter

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make sure you secure the drain line somehow - even though the line is gravity it will vibrate and eventually stress out the joint into the bulkhead.

from pic2, Ball valve by the return pump isn't needed as flow will be regulated by the one you have closest to the bulhead and the ones that regulate the accessories. All you need is a union by the return pump. If you want to limit the amount of water coming back to your sump, use a true union ball valve right at the pump and eliminate the one closest to the bulkhead.

FWIW

House

much cleaner in pic2.
 

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