Phosphate control method which is better?

[polywise]

Thinking on starting to use a phosphate remover on my system

I change 50 gal / week on 600+- gal system
I run a RODI unit on well water, and monitor TDS output, changing DI resin when readings get above 4 TDS

I test tank's water for P04 every few weeks with a hanna tester, and get readings that are higher that I would like.


Which way do you think is a better way to work on keeping phosphates in check?

Running a reactor up front on water change / make up container? to work on controlling phosphates being introduced into the system through water changes

(or)

running the reactor in the sump treating the system's water?

 

[Brando457]

Run a reactor in the sump treating the system's water. The phosphates primarily come from nutrients in the system, not so much the water change water.

You could also look into running a bio pellet reactor and placing the output near your skimmer.

 

[piranhapat]

I agree but he's also Introducing phosphate when adding water change. He has a double problem to me. Jim, you should change DI as soon your reading go above zero. And run GFO in reactor in sump. Start slow if you add GFO and recommend ROWA. Bio pellets work more on removing Nitrates help little with phosphate.

 

[BioMan]

Jim, I feel silly giving you advice after seeing your setup, but I think the water in the system should be treated. Ever since I've been keeping SPS I've read about GFO stripping trace elements from the water colum so in my opinion treating water you in the system needs attention. Of course we're treating the symptom not the problem. Let us know what you decide

 

[bklynreef]

On a system that large youll go through a lot of expensive GFO a year like I have been for the past few years. I would try Bio pellets as this is what im doing now also to control PO4 and carbon dosing at the same time. Its way less expensive than GFO and I hope easier once it gets tuned in.

 

[skunkcleaner]

Ever think of running zeovit system .. On a system that size it wouldn't be cheap but u would have a ulns

 

[bklynreef]

Zeovit would be quite expensive with all the products needed and the amount of those products. Anyone with an tank volume upwards of 500 plus gallons is looking for an inexpensive way to keep PO4 down, stable and with least maintenance.
Its either Expensive GFO, Expensive water changes, BioPellets or a Denitrifier with the latter two are the least expensive.

 

[Chefjpaul]

Where is your NO3?

 

[jackson6745]

Definitely run the GFO on the system water, but as already stated, it gets expensive on a big system if po4 becomes a real issue. IMO, to keep po4 under control, minimize detritus areas + shop vac any detritus from your sumps(s).

 

[greg 45]

Zero at the end or out of the ro /di means squat.
Please check you make up water right out of the ro /di to make shure you aren't adding the phosphates to your new salt mix. When I have a issue I start with what comes out of the tap and then the ro unit. If tank is high with po4 than deal with the tank.

 

[bklynreef]

zero at the end or out of the ro /di means squat.
Please check you make up water right out of the ro /di to make shure you aren't adding the phosphates to your new salt mix. When i have a issue i start with what comes out of the tap and then the ro unit. If tank is high with po4 than deal with the tank.

^ +1

 

[piranhapat]

Either way he has to lower his phosphate. So only way is to remove it from his system. It's just amount of time that levels keep climbing. Specially if he his introducing phosphate from well water. I agree with Jackson removing detritus from sump ect. I just started doing that and notice a difference. Had same problem changed DI and it helped. Jim you can put mangrove trees in your man cave. Lol...

 

[MikeC]

if po4 becomes a real issue. Imo, to keep po4 under control, minimize detritus areas + shop vac any detritus from your sumps(s).

+1

 

[polywise]

Hi guys,
Thanks for all he comments and suggestions.
I will test make up water for phosphates and report he results.
no3 - is and has always tested un detectable with a salifert test kit
I vacuum detritus from my grow out tank in the fish room, but have never done it in my sump, or tank (MAYBE I SHOULD START)

I have a lot of live rock in my system between the sump and tank +- 750 pounds

I feed (what I think to be rather light)
every other day
frozen brine, or mysis, along with a strip of Nori.

Keeping on top of DI resin (seems to get depleted rather quickly), someone had previously suggested that I have high CO2 coming from well water, and that deplete the DI resin quickly. I am working on setting up a pre RODI opened toped water bucket setup to let the water degas before it is used in the RODI unit, but its not on line yet.

 

[polywise]

OK,
I just ran a PO4 test on the tank..
ran 2 tests both came out with the same reading
0.03

 

[Chefjpaul]

What was it prior to your "cleanup"?

 

[polywise]

just tested RODI unit's output

0.01

 

[polywise]

Chefpaul,
It's a current reading. I only run a CARX, and skimmer + the live rock...

 

[Brando457]

Test your brand new mixed up water. What salt mix are you using?

 

[polywise]

using reef crystals
and I'll test PO4 tomorrow when I do next water channge