Uv sterilizer

[SYNE89]

Hey guys,

Need some opinions I have a reefer 350 with a uv install had somebody Tell me it's installed wrong and somebody else saying it's fine confused I have the return pump going thru the uv back into the display tank ... Didn't have room in the tank so it's mounted on the side(25w Aqua uv). Please help


Thanks

 

[SYNE89]

Uv

 

[greybolt03]

What is the flow rate of the water going thru the uv to the display. I think if the flow rate is to high it basically is not doing its job and is infective

 

[theMeat]

Exactly ^
Ask yourself what you want the uv to accomplish, then look at linky
http://www.aquaultraviolet.com/sites/default/files/brochures/UV Charts Salt and Fresh Water.pdf

Personally, would have it out of tank through uv and back in tank as a closed loop not going through sump, Or have it pick up from first compartment in sump, and return to return pump area so it by passes fuge area. Would do the same with that reactor in the pic too. It will slow down the flow in the fuge area, allowing better breeding for pods, and plants will have more time to absorb nutrients.

 

[SYNE89]

I have a jebeo 6000 on the 4 setting just really wanna know if it's fine to have it the way I do or do I need a separate pump which I really don't wanna have....

 

[theMeat]

Jebao dc return pumps are grossly over rated as far as what they claim gph. The only way to know for sure is get a 5 gal bucket or something and run your drain from tank that normally goes to sump and see how long it takes to fill. Then do the math and figure your actual gph. You'll have to swing the water from sump to bucket while the pump is on because that pump has a gradual on thing so that will throw off your measurements. According to aqua uv a classic 25w needs 400gph to sterilize critters, and around 800 gph to kill algae.

The other thing i mentioned about the uv bypassing the sump or the fuge area in my last post...if you have the uv installed on the return pump and it's around 400gph, which is around where it should be for your 90gal tank regardless of whether or not you have uv, then any beneficial pods will get sterilized on their way to your tank too. The sweet spot for a reef tank return pump is the volume of your display 4-6x gph. So for 90gal tank, somewhere in between 360-540gph.

 

[delv]

Why do you have the UV? You want a flow of under 100 gph to zap virus/bacteria that are commonly on fish. Set up a closed loop in the sump or "T" of the return and have a separate return. The way it's set up now, it's not doing much. How old is the bulb?

d.

 

[theMeat]

Why do you have the UV? You want a flow of under 100 gph to zap virus/bacteria that are commonly on fish. Set up a closed loop in the sump or "T" of the return and have a separate return. The way it's set up now, it's not doing much. How old is the bulb?

d.

This is not accurate information

 

[NYreefNoob]

you want the water returning to the tank to go through the uv. this way all water returning is getting the full benifit of a uv

 

[delv]

Please explain why. Aqua Ultraviolet likes to quote zap dosages similar to pond usage (killing free floating algae...aka green water).

That's why I asked why they have it.

d.

 

[theMeat]

Please explain why. Aqua Ultraviolet likes to quote zap dosages similar to pond usage (killing free floating algae...aka green water).

That's why I asked why they have it.

d.

Because wattage and exposure time (i.e. how long the tube is, does the water spiral around inside the tube) determines gph against algae, parasites, whatever. Aqua uv classic 25watt, according to their link above, recommends 400gph for parasites, and 800gph for algae. while i too find those numbers hi, would go by what the manufacture states, and 100 gph is not even in the ball park.

Read the next post for an answer to why the other part of your post is inaccurate.

 

[theMeat]

you want the water returning to the tank to go through the uv. this way all water returning is getting the full benifit of a uv

Good point but not the best way of looking at it. If the uv is on a closed loop within the display, it has maximum effectiveness against parasites in the display that need to attach to fish that'r in the display to continue their life cycle, and minimum damage to beneficial pods returning from sump.

 

[delv]

I'd never trust aqua...they are a manufacturer, and not one I've ever seen at the multiple public aquaria/huge installations/ponds I've worked on, worked with. Essentially, they lie. If you need a hobbyist quote look at the BRS website.
There's no issue with green water. I was talking about protazoa and possibly Ich. I think around 100 gph would get you the correct zap for a 25 watt unit, and I'd set it on a T off of the return.

Thanks,
d.

 

[theMeat]

Would question a manufacturer that's looking for profit too. Also think Aqua is ridiculously over priced. But also don't get what aqua would have to gain by recommending flow rates that don't work. It's not like with algae ppl can't see that it doesn't work and that word would spread and send their rep into the toilet. I too think those numbers are hi, but would use it as a guide, 100gph is not within the realm of what's to be expected from that uv.
T-ing off the return line makes it less effective for reasons pointed out and should now make sense to you. As well, when you t off that line now it's a guess as to how much is going through the uv, and how much is returning directly to the tank. Unless you measure, calculate and tweak, measure, calculate and tweak, until you get it right.

 

[NYreefNoob]

Good point but not the best way of looking at it. If the uv is on a closed loop within the display, it has maximum effectiveness against parasites in the display that need to attach to fish that'r in the display to continue their life cycle, and minimum damage to beneficial pods returning from sump.

not true and i ran my uv for years this way, and it never effected my pod population. aqua uv is the only company i would ever use and have ever used, try calling any other maker of them and see if they actually know what they are talking about or can give information and btw they recommend plumbing it into the return line.

http://www.aquaultraviolet.com/site...ions Classic and Twist Series UV 05-19-09.pdf

 

[theMeat]

not true and i ran my uv for years this way, and it never effected my pod population. aqua uv is the only company i would ever use and have ever used, try calling any other maker of them and see if they actually know what they are talking about or can give information and btw they recommend plumbing it into the return line.

http://www.aquaultraviolet.com/site...ions Classic and Twist Series UV 05-19-09.pdf

Are you saying that pods aren't effected by uv but other critters like ich are? Or are you saying that pods somehow get up into the tank some other way, and know to avoid the uv? Pods breed in the display as well, and no matter where the uv is plumbed it's not going to be 100% effective aqainst ich or pods. But to say the uv, and how/where it's placed isn't effecting the population is silly, or some sorta magic. Within the fuge there is no way for ich to reproduce without a host, and any algae there is where it's supposed to be and where you'd want it to do it's job of consuming nutrients, so? Take the sump's volume of water out of the equation and the uv within a closed loop on the display turns over the display's contents more times per hour making it more effective where it counts. If you want to disagree with that matter of simple physics, ok
Emperor aquatics has a much larger and loyal following, and is used by most professional installations. Think emperor and aqua uv are both horribly over priced, and find the online bickering over the two quite entertaining.

 

[NYreefNoob]

Are you saying that pods aren't effected by uv but other critters like ich are?

i didnt say that. i said my pod population wasnt effected. i never ran a fuge either with a uv. and if you dont have a fuge where would you say my pods come from ? oh i know, my display.

Emperor aquatics has a much larger and loyal following, and is used by most professional installations.

and where did you get this info from ?



i guess the makers of the uv dont know any better, maybe i should contact them and tell them they are giving false info out on how to best plumb the uv. read page 9 they are telling you the recommended way to plumb this.

Take the sump's volume of water out of the equation and the uv within a closed loop on the display turns over the display's contents more times per hour making it more effective where it counts. If you want to disagree with that matter of simple physics, ok

how is it going to turn over more on a closed loop system in the tank then on the return ? please explain because they do have recommended flow depending on how you are trying to use the uv. so 400gph is 400gph correct ? and if ALL water is being ran through the uv coming from a return back into the tank how would a closed loop be better ?
http://www.aquaultraviolet.com/site...ions Classic and Twist Series UV 05-19-09.pdf

 

[theMeat]

Wow, that's some fancy multi-quoting.
-your pod population was effected by a uv, no matter where it is on the system. Just more than necessary because of where you have it installed. Sure they breed in the tank, i already mentioned that, but they also get eaten in the tank. In the sump they can breed without getting eaten, fuge or not, but with uv on return line they certainly get fried on their way to your tank.
-Where have i heard this? Have heard it many times, and it's the only brand i'v seen on public aquariums.
-Threatening me with contact of aqua uv, oh my. If ich is in the sump so what. It will not find a host in there and die. If it makes it to the tank it will have more chance of getting sterilized because. Math lesson... If the contents of the tank are going through the uv and the sump contents are not, then content is smaller and will get processed more times per hour through the uv. Plus, if ich does go to the surface of the tank, and if it gets caught in the flow down to the sump, there is a chance it will stay there and die without a host, and an additional chance any ich or whatever in tank will get fried in the closed loop within the tank that will now have a better turn over rate without the sump contents.

 

[acolaojr]

I'd never trust aqua...they are a manufacturer, and not one I've ever seen at the multiple public aquaria/huge installations/ponds I've worked on, worked with. Essentially, they lie. If you need a hobbyist quote look at the BRS website.
There's no issue with green water. I was talking about protazoa and possibly Ich. I think around 100 gph would get you the correct zap for a 25 watt unit, and I'd set it on a T off of the return.

Thanks,
d.

Would you T off the return back into another chamber of the sump or into display?

 

[albano]

Take the sump's volume of water out of the equation and the uv within a closed loop on the display turns over the display's contents more times per hour making it more effective where it counts. If you want to disagree with that matter of simple physics, ok

Math lesson... If the contents of the tank are going through the uv and the sump contents are not, then content is smaller and will get processed more times per hour through the uv.

If the return pump and overflows are 'running', how is the 'sump contents' (water volume) not going thru the tank?