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reefiness

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Im going to be setting up the breakout box with some float switches in my ato container just so i can get a warning when the level is low and when its full. Im just trying,to digure out how the switches can be mounted so im looking for ideas. Any poctures would be helpful.
 

theMeat

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Personally, would do a hydor smart level control with a pump or a solenoid valve. Holds on with a strong magnet, alarm for low, alarm for high, and no moving parts. Just gotta make sure you rig it so it get's from low to high within 10 minutes, or it sets an alarm and shuts off.
 

reefiness

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Personally, would do a hydor smart level control with a pump or a solenoid valve. Holds on with a strong magnet, alarm for low, alarm for high, and no moving parts. Just gotta make sure you rig it so it get's from low to high within 10 minutes, or it sets an alarm and shuts off.

I jave an auto top off... I just want levels for my ato container so i stop overflowing it while i fill it
 

Chefjpaul

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if you are filling it through you ro/di unit a switch will not stop the water, i use this one my customers top off water container
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/auto-shut-off-kit-for-reverse-osmosis-systems.html

It's not recommended to plumb your rodi unit straight to your ato.
The short spurts will burn through resins / filters much faster.
Running longer & 5+ gallons is recomended from spectrapure.

Personally I have a 20G ato. Its in my mixing room about 60 ft from tank.

The ato resivoir has an emergency ato float so if it runs low, as I manually fill it, via gravity from rodi resivoir above.

Float switches in sump via controller.

I use the cilinoids for the rodi unit hard plumbing to main water supply to the water resivoirs floats.
 

Branespikin

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Im going from RODI to Ato reservoir but i have a controller from autotopoff with latching relay. One float switch is set on the low mark and another float swirch on the high mark. This is all connected to the controller and a Solenoid. When water level hits low mark it opens the solenoid letting water frim Rodi to fill reservoir when it hits the top about 5-6 gallons later it triggers the upper float which shuts off the solenoid and process repeats itself so no TDS creep issues and burning Resins.
 

Chefjpaul

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Im going from RODI to Ato reservoir but i have a controller from autotopoff with latching relay. One float switch is set on the low mark and another float swirch on the high mark. This is all connected to the controller and a Solenoid. When water level hits low mark it opens the solenoid letting water frim Rodi to fill reservoir when it hits the top about 5-6 gallons later it triggers the upper float which shuts off the solenoid and process repeats itself so no TDS creep issues and burning Resins.
Nice. I'm going to add another float to do this eventually. Like this.
 

reefiness

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For the record, the float switches will not be contolling the water. They will just serve as an indicator for when i need to fill the to and also when i need to stop filling the aro before it over flows. I have a 10 gallon ato in my tank stand which i manually run my rodi line to when i need to fill it up. Problem is i frequently forget about it and come back to some water spilled out of the ato and into the stand. The purpose of the floats and break out will be so i can get an alert on my phone when the high water level mark is reached, and i will also have it run the apex audible alarm
 

Branespikin

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If you are running Rodi to 10g ATO container than as nyreefnoob stated get the auto shutoff kit which consists of shutoff valve, check valve and float. Screw this at your high point and when water reaches the high point it will turn off the water supply. You can put a switch at this height too to send you a txt or alarm so you can manually shut off the valve ehich feeds the rodi. You dont want thst float controlling water level because when water level drops a bit it will kick in rodi again which causes tds creep. Also when you grt the float from the kit its best to get the regulat non adjusting float as its one less place for something to fail. I was originally going to do the manual route as you are doing but decided to automate it like i mentioned in my previous post. Its something you should look into. It makes things a bit easier. I also have a few redundant floats setup and leak protectors just to be safe
 
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