Sump Feedback

[tunicata]

Hi Folks,

So, architecture/design has never been something that was..."my thing"

However, I want to build a sump that has everything I think I want. This sump is going to be on my 300DD that is on hold.

The alternative is to use the existing sump from my old set up (62g) and add in the 80g DB as the fuge. I just don't want the potential hassle of tying together two tanks (one acrylic and one glass). I was considering finding a used 125 or 180 and just getting the glass cut to specs and then siliconing it in place. I have a friend that did that and his sump was super low cost and it was custom.


I want:

• The weirs of the sump to be high enough that I get to use the majority of the gallonage
• 3x7" filter sock area where water first tumbles down then cascades over and into the socks and then down.
• From there, I'd like rock/cermedia filtration
• Then a skimmer area big enough for the SRO 5000 INT
• Then a large sized fuge- at least 10x24
• then

a return area that is not too skinny so it can hold the majority of back flowing water from the DT in case of an emergency (check valve can exist for added safety but may fail)

Did I make a mistake with the weirs? I think the media chamber area is wrong, which then impacts the others.

What else should I be thinking about?

 

[Nandez13]

A couple thoughts:
If the skimmer is placed in the first chamber, then you can eliminate one set of weirs.
Why do you feel you need the cermedia as additional biological filtration? The LR in a tank of that size should be enough. The live rock from that chamber can even go at the bottom of your refugium. Macro at the bottom of that chamber wouldn't be getting light anyway so might as well utilize that space. This would let you increase the length of the fuge and increase the surface area of macro receiving lighting. Good luck with the build!

 

[theMeat]

looks great

Things i would do dif are

Put the media chamber after the skimmer, so the skimmer has a chance at the dirtiest water first. so it can do what it's there for.

Would also look to incorporate an algae scrubber, to cut down big time on doing water changes

Depending on the depth of the sump, and the recommended water level height for skimmer, you may be able to get some marinpur block under the skimmer

Oh, nother thing...
instead of reef ready boxes inside the tank, go with a ghost style overflow with herbie or other dead silent type plumping. More room in tank, easier to clean, dead silent, and an emergency overflow just in case.
Something like this http://synergyreef.com/product/20-synergy-reef-overflow/

 

[tunicata]

Thanks for the feedback so far!

Nandez and The Meat:
I am actually hoping that through biological filtration I may be able to ween off of the skimmer. In the cermedia chamber (I have no problem moving the order!) I intend to put extra live rock. I like the idea of putting media under the cheato. That way i can increase macro even more! I am essentially hoping to have my sump as a green space with cheato and mangroves.

I wanted a ghost style overflow, but since I have a stock 300DD when I asked around, many folks were scared to drill into it and change the overflow type.
However, since my tank is 36" deep, I'm fine with the overflow. It's a huge tank, I can spare the space!

 

[theMeat]

Cool beans

If you'r looking to ween off the skimmer, definitely think about an algae scrubber.

I have a 220 going on one year with no need for a water change yet. Slightly undersized skimmer, 55 gal fuge, and an algae scrubber. No way i'd get these kind of results with the fuge and skimmer alone, no matter how much bio filter is going on. Bio filter is great at ammonia and nitrites, not so good at nitrates and phosphates. Nitrates and phosphates is what causes ppl to do water changes, and where the scrubber comes in and really shines.

A skimmer takes waste out before it enters the nitrogen cycle. Just removes it completely. Leaving more room in the bio filter surface area to consume whatever is left.

Ammonia and nitrites are what bio filters, no matter how much, or how big or small the holes are are good at. Sure, the size and depth of the holes, the amount of flow they receive, and the amount of them you have can improve it's nitrate consuming ability, but ....the more area that gets used by bacteria consuming ammonia and nitrite, the less area bacteria that consumes nitrates can grow, and by nature it's not ever going to consume as much nitrate and phosphate as a growing algae or macro.

A fuge or a scrubber shines at nitrates and phosphates. A scrubber much more so, but a fuge gives pods and other beneficial critters a place to breed away from fish that eat them.

 

[edd]

you only need one bubble trap of weirs, before the return. the others can be single glass.
and i would put the fuge first, cause you dont need that much flow going through it.
like mentioned ditch the ceramic and make fuge bigger with more rock

 

[theMeat]

True. Good point. The last weir, on the return pump side should be shorter, much shorter, but I'd put one to direct any bubbles upward.

Ceramic is more Porous than just about any rock you will find

Skimmer first so fuge will be more effective. Would keep the triple weir design you have before skimmer. To keep the skimmer pump area bubble and turbulent free, for a skimmer that is easier to dial in and keep it dialed in.

Would also keep the triple weir before the fuge area to keep bubbles out, help with salt creep, keep the flow in the fuge area directed across the top and that will make the flow down low slower. Not to mention not having bubbles popping all over the place will keeps things cleaner long term. You could also put foam pads at the some of the weirs and run sockless. You have to clean and/or change socks every 3-4 days. If you wait longer the debris they catch breaks down and enters the nitrogen cycle anyway, so if you wait longer than 4-5 days to change them you might as well not run them at all. Cleaning and changing socks every few days gets old fast.

Would also figure in some room, or other means to run an auto top off on a tank of that size.