Paul B

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Remember, there is more to it than just not quarantining. If you just throw fish in your tank, feed flakes, pellets and freeze dried foods and none of your fish are spawning or even making googly eyes at each other, you will probably lost all your fish to disease. You need to get them into excellent condition and feed either live foods, (the best) or frozen which have not been frozen for years to preserve the bacteria in the food. To stay immune fish need fresh, live bacteria in their gut
 

BKreefbaby

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brooklyn
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@paul B I I have a mandarin so once a month I put a bottle of copepods from algagen in my tank. Do you recommend anything else and if so where can I buy them. So much research shows that live foods are the best and I want to provide that in my tabk
 

piranhapat

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Qt is very important especially to sensitive fish that are not very hardy. I would use Prime only in Qt tank. Once you start adding copper or Prazipro this is now a hospital tank. So never mix the other chemical together. Next important is bacteria. Today very easy you can buy it in bottle. It will only work is when fish is in QT. I like Stabilty by sea chem. I would only start out with one fish and slowly add to bio load builds. You can to water changes every one or two weeks. But everyday you must dose bacteria from the bottle for 7 days.
1. The reason why it's important to Qt is salinity. Usually LFS have salinity 1.13 -1.16. So important to have salinity no higher 1.18. So acclimated is not that big of jump.
2. It's Important to get the fish eating good frozen food. LRS is very excellent food.
3. Once the fish is eating you either decide if you want treat the fish in Qt.
4. After 3 weeks I either slowly increase salinity while doing water changes. So if DT at 1.26 I would get the Qt tank up 1.25.
When I buy new fish I set up a 20 gal. And have salinity 1.16. I start adding bacteria but just one fish. I also set up 5 gal as hospital tank is where I would treat with medicine. If I see an outbreak. This will not prevent the fish to live. This will help his chances. But will protect your DT from getting a disease. You don't want to transmit a sick or unhealthy fish. This is what work for me.
 
Last edited:

marrone

The All Powerful OZ
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Qt is very important especially to sensitive fish that are not very hardy. I would use Prime only in Qt tank. Once you start adding copper or Prazipro this is now a hospital tank.
.

+1

I think the point people are missing is we're talking about a Quarantine tank and not a Hospital tank. The whole purpose of a QT is to get the fish to start to eat, give it some rest and down time as it get use to our tanks, and look and see if it has some disease or parasite, and if it does, treat it with the correct medication.

When I buy new fish I set up a 20 gal. And have salinity 1.16. I start adding bacteria but just one fish. I also set up 5 gal as hospital tank is where I would treat with medicine. If I see an outbreak. This will not prevent the fish to live. This will help his chances. But will protect your DT from getting a disease. You don't want to transmit a sick or unhealthy fish. This is what work for me.

This is very important, as you want to protect your main tank, especially since most of us have reef tanks and can't add medication or easily remove the fish to treat them.

For a QT I run a small 5gal plastic reptile tank, with some small pieces of live rock in it for biological filtration. For water movement I run a small Mini-Jet pump. Basically I use the water from my reef tank, when I do water changes, so I do a 100% water change on the tank ever week or so. If you don't have the space to keep a small tank running you can keep small pieces of live rock in your sump, and then when you need the tank use the live rock.
 
Location
Queens, NY
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Same here.
QT is not really a hassle at all if you keep it very simple. All I do is keep an empty 20 gallon Rubbermaid tub next to my tank on the floor. To start it up, right when I get a new fish, I dump the fish and bag of water into it, then just drip/acclimate the fish with water from the main tank into it, like I would a partial water change, just much slower. I tip the tub at an incline so there's enough water in the corner for the fish to stay submerged. Once the water level goes up, I insert a small powerhead. Now I just leave it in there for a few weeks to a few months, since I'm in no rush to put anything into my tank. I train it, watch it, hyposalinity for ich, and just syphon water from the main tank into it, whenever I need to manage the water quality. After I'm done, I just empty it out and store it in the closet. I've kept quite a few fish in there at a time, (ie 6 yellow tangs last year)
 

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