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Old 10-06-2017, 03:33 PM
#1
arnaldolex1
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rodi question

so i have this rodi that the membrane was still good, i changed the filters on it only a 4 stage rodi so change the cotton, carbon and resin on it. The filter was reading 0 tds after 10 minutes of running the water i made maybe 70 gallons of water on it and the tds was reading 340 could this be possible. I have well water now and the tds before is 780 i know thats crazy but thats what it is not he 40 to 60 nyc is, dont know what to do i have a new membrane that does 100 gpd dont know if that will fix it or do i need to run more stages if so of what i need help. I know i read up on people having sps dominant tanks on well water dont know what am doing wrong or what i gotta change. I bought a 150 gallon water canister yesterday and wanna set it up but wanna fix this problem before i do so.
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Old 10-06-2017, 08:12 PM
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Hey there
With well water you don’t need to run a carbon block. Use that for another particle filter.
Will take a lil experimenting on your part to see what size microns you should run. Because it depends on what size particles are in your water supply. If you run a 10 micron, followed by a one, then if your particles are smaller than 10, the 10 will stay pretty clean and the one micron will get clogged quick. If that’s the case than fun a 5, followed by a one.

With 700’s coming into the house it’s a good idea to run a whole house filter or some sort. It will not only be better for all the plumbing fixtures in the house, and healthier for everyone, but will make you to/di last longer too

Oh, with well water you can adjust house’s psi somewhat. So you 100 gpd membrane shouldn’t be an issue

Be sure to share some pics of the new set up. Knowing you it should be phenomenal

Last edited by theMeat; 10-06-2017 at 08:50 PM..
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Old 10-06-2017, 09:51 PM
#3
vio
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I think , you TDS meter is bad, you right about 45 to 60 inside NYC.
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Old 10-09-2017, 02:35 PM
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arnaldolex1
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thanks for the info guys and my tds meter is running fine lol the well water is really that high i have the one that goes on the rodi and i have 2 hand held they all read the same. and meet thanks for all the info i was thinking of running double membranes i have a extra membrane canister and a membrane but wanted to see what i could do. I do have a house filtration system but wanted to bypass that and go straight for the well since it passed it threw salt and also has a chlorine tablet in it and some big tank that i dont know what it is thats y i went straight. i just purchased a 150 gallon water container the white ones and wanna fill it up soon but gotta fix this problem first. when you speak about the 10 and 5 microns is this for the cotton block or carbon the way i had it set up now is first the cotton then the carbon then the resin then the membrane
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Old 10-09-2017, 03:25 PM
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If you have whole house salt water filter/ water softener you should instal a whole house canister filter, which you can instal a carbon block, or particle/micron (cotton) Whichever you want, after the softener. Like this https://www.doityourself.com/forum/a...3f19ad17a7.jpg A softener is basically like a chemical magnet. Depending on what contaminants are in your water, doesn't necessarily make the water cleaner, just softer. Typically, with well water, a whole house canister filter gets install after the softener. Sometimes, if the water supply is dirty enough, you put a big micron, like 10, before the softener, and another canister after the softener, with a smaller micron, like 5,1, or a carbon block to polish the water and remove any resins the softening might be adding.

Take a sample of your tap water to a pool place and have em test it for chlorine. Pretty sure the salt removes all the chlorine.

The way an ro/di is plumbed is...
Micron (cotton), then carbon, then membrane, then resin= product water ready for tank. Like this https://blog.marinedepot.com/wp-cont...7/02/rodi4.jpg Resin is expensive and is only supposed to take out the remaining few tds. The membrane will take out 95%, and the micron/particle/cotton take out whatever they can, depending on size of your contaminates, before the membrane to keep it as clean as possible to make it last. Carbon block protects the membrane from chlorides and fluorides because they will harden the membrane right quick and turn it to useless.
Some people double up stages. Like 2 carbon, 2 micron, whatever. In your case I would run 2 dif size microns, not 2 membranes. And would suspect if you did want to run 2 membranes instead of two microns, the membrane first inline would get used up quick, and the second would need a booster pump because the pressure would be too low after the first membrane.
If your tap water is 700s after whole house salt/softener, def add a canister filter after the softener for the whole house

Last edited by theMeat; 10-09-2017 at 09:40 PM..
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Old 10-11-2017, 04:31 PM
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arnaldolex1
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thanks meat your very knowledgeable the water doesnt have chlorine since it comes straight from the well but i do add a chlorine tablet in it which i can take out before filling my 150 drum and drain the system out first. I thought the water softner would make the water more saltier since its all salt and it dissolves thats y i was trying to go straight from the well i tested the water in the house after the filtration system and it read the same as outside in the 700s
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