A
Anonymous
Guest
Thanks, I have seen that link but still can't find an actual wiring diagram for this set up 2 x 96 watt. I know people have used this ballast for their diy.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Check this out: http://www.inlandreef.com/images/DIY/PCWiring/2x96%20Wiring.jpg
I think this is what your looking for.
I think this is what your looking for.
A
Anonymous
Guest
That is exactly what I have been searching for. Someone had a link out there on a diy 96 watt PC with pictures and details, but it is not active anymore. The diagram you provided me is perfect. Thank you. I almost feel like I won the lottery.
A
Anonymous
Guest
You're welcome.
(I'm the guy that drew it)
------------------
Matt Marulla
Inland Reef Aquaria
Nashua, NH
[This message has been edited by MattM (edited 06 March 2001).]
------------------
Matt Marulla
Inland Reef Aquaria
Nashua, NH
[This message has been edited by MattM (edited 06 March 2001).]
A
Anonymous
Guest
Matt, YOU ARE THE MAN!!!! you have saved me more money than I know. Maybe I should buy something from you guys
A
Anonymous
Guest
Wiring question for a 2 x 96 pc. I am going to use the advance rel-2s110 ballast. Anyone have a good wiring diagram for this set up?
I know there is a wiring diagram for a icecap 430 for 2 power compacts but I am not sure if that would work for the rel-2s110 ballast?
The big question is with the yellow wires? Do you splice 2 more yellows together to have 4 yellow wires or do you use a jumper wire?
I know there is a wiring diagram for a icecap 430 for 2 power compacts but I am not sure if that would work for the rel-2s110 ballast?
The big question is with the yellow wires? Do you splice 2 more yellows together to have 4 yellow wires or do you use a jumper wire?
A
Anonymous
Guest
A
Anonymous
Guest
Last question: How do you know what side of the power cord is the "hot" side vs. the neutral side? I always gets this mixed up.
If you have a polarized male plug, which side is the "hot" the wider flared side or the other side?
If you have a polarized male plug, which side is the "hot" the wider flared side or the other side?
A
Anonymous
Guest
call advanced ballast company. they will tell you how to wire thie ballast correctly.
remember, all good things come to those who wait.
remember, all good things come to those who wait.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Matt: Thank you for the wiring diagram. I wired up my ballasts from it. It was very easy thanks to your diagram. The last thing I did not wire is my sockets. Mine are the Gy10q sockets. They look like a square. From your diagram you show the other style socket that the pins are all in 1 line. Where mine are in a square. I am guessing from your diagram the white and blue wires are on one side (white on top, blue directly below the white) and red and yellow on the other side (red on top and yellow directly below the red) Any help is appreciated. Thought I would check first.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Actually, the ones depicted in the drawing are the "pins in a square" type, but the connecting wires are in a line. It's one of these.
But, in any case, you are correct in the wire order. Imagine the CF bulb is like a long bulb folded in half. Then the blue/white go to one end and the red/yellow go to the other end. You can swap blue for white or red for yellow with no effect.
------------------
Matt Marulla
Inland Reef Aquaria
Nashua, NH
But, in any case, you are correct in the wire order. Imagine the CF bulb is like a long bulb folded in half. Then the blue/white go to one end and the red/yellow go to the other end. You can swap blue for white or red for yellow with no effect.
------------------
Matt Marulla
Inland Reef Aquaria
Nashua, NH
A
Anonymous
Guest
I hooked up the sockets and the lights came on with no problems on one of the advance ballasts. The 2nd ballast did not work so good. The other 2 x 96 watt lights kept flickering for awhile and the ballast had a load buzz. Then they stayed on without the flicker. I check my connections and they were all good. I uplugged and retryed and the same problem occurred on that ballast. I am going to return my ballast for another one. I think the ballast is bad? Do you think this is a correct assumption?
A
Anonymous
Guest
It's certainly possible that the ballast is bad, but it's pretty rare. We've sold hundreds of these and have had one bad ballast.
Of course, that one proves they can go bad! I would go ahead and swap it - it shouldn't buzz.
------------------
Matt Marulla
Inland Reef Aquaria
Nashua, NH
Of course, that one proves they can go bad! I would go ahead and swap it - it shouldn't buzz.
------------------
Matt Marulla
Inland Reef Aquaria
Nashua, NH
A
Anonymous
Guest
matt: what order do you recommend I place the 4 x 96 watt PC lamps? My reflector is 36 x 9 inch. If I am looking at the front of the tank what order?
back of tank
ie. actinic
white
actinic
white
front of tank
back of tank
ie. actinic
white
actinic
white
front of tank
A
Anonymous
Guest
I still am having a problem with the 10,000k bulbs flicker when they start up. I think this is going to shorten the life of the bulbs. Is this common for the advance rel-2s-110-tp do flick with these 96 watt bulbs? Someone mentioned theey are just marginal for starting these bulbs and really were not designed for them. Should I go to the ICE cap 660 instead? But, if I do that I can not do the dusk - dawn effect. They will all be on or off. If anyone else has diy the 4 x 96 watt PC with the advance ballasts do yours flicker also? And is there anything that I can add to stop the flicker?
A
Anonymous
Guest
Check and make sure your reflector is grounded.
A
Anonymous
Guest
What does the grounding of the relector have to do with the bulbs? I know this is shown in wiring diagrams, but I was never too sure how this could effect the bulbs. I wish I new more about electric wiring etc. If anyone can help answer this it would help!
A
Anonymous
Guest
Many fluorescent fixtures will not start reliably unless they are connected to a solid earth (safety) ground. This is most likely the case
with rapid or trigger start magnetic ballasts. These will usually state on the label: "Mount tube within 1/2 inch of grounded metal
reflector". If this is not done or if the entire fixture is not grounded, starting will be erratic - possibly taking a long or random amount of
time to start or waiting until you brush your hand along the tube.
The reason is straightforward:
The metal reflector or your hand provides a capacitive path to ground through the wall of the fluorescent tube. This helps to ionize the
gases inside the tube and initiate conduction in the tube. However, once current is flowing from end-to-end, the impedance in the ballast
circuit is much much lower than this capacitive path. Thus, the added capacitance is irrelevant once the tube has started.
The reason that this is required is probably partly one of cost: it is cheaper to manufacture a ballast with slightly lower starting voltage
but require the fixture to be grounded - as it should be for safety anyhow.
Not sure what that means, but I got that from here: http://www.misty.com/people/don/f-lamp.html
Ty
------------------
<A HREF="http://tyoberg.home.mindspring.com/" TARGET=_blank>http://tyoberg.home.mindspring.com/
</A> Come check it out!
[This message has been edited by tyoberg (edited 03 April 2001).]
with rapid or trigger start magnetic ballasts. These will usually state on the label: "Mount tube within 1/2 inch of grounded metal
reflector". If this is not done or if the entire fixture is not grounded, starting will be erratic - possibly taking a long or random amount of
time to start or waiting until you brush your hand along the tube.
The reason is straightforward:
The metal reflector or your hand provides a capacitive path to ground through the wall of the fluorescent tube. This helps to ionize the
gases inside the tube and initiate conduction in the tube. However, once current is flowing from end-to-end, the impedance in the ballast
circuit is much much lower than this capacitive path. Thus, the added capacitance is irrelevant once the tube has started.
The reason that this is required is probably partly one of cost: it is cheaper to manufacture a ballast with slightly lower starting voltage
but require the fixture to be grounded - as it should be for safety anyhow.
Not sure what that means, but I got that from here: http://www.misty.com/people/don/f-lamp.html
Ty
------------------
<A HREF="http://tyoberg.home.mindspring.com/" TARGET=_blank>http://tyoberg.home.mindspring.com/
</A> Come check it out!
[This message has been edited by tyoberg (edited 03 April 2001).]
A
Anonymous
Guest
I know this is an old thread, but I called Advance Ballast about the intermet article stating that their ballast will fire 2x96 watt PC's. Advance says that the article is totally incorrect and it will not work. Doesn't really explain why one of Wam's ballasts worked though.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Can this ballast fire 2 48" VHOs?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Sponsor Reefs
We're a FREE website, and we exist because of hobbyists like YOU who help us run this community.
Click here to sponsor $10:
