drilling glass?
- Thread starter humu
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don't do that. Drilling glass is very difficult, unless you're experienced. Not to mention that good quality brass drill bits are pretty expensive. Like $50-100 for a 1.5" hole. Plus, they get really hot if you don't use some sort of liquid to cool the bit.
Most glass shops will drill bulkhead holes (I'm assuming that's what you're doing) for about $15-20, and for a little more, they might even come to your house, if your tank is too big to bring to the shop.
I had my 20L drilled for $16 at a local shop down the street. I actually carried it there and back, and can imagine what an odd sight I must have been, carrying an aquarium down the street.
Most glass shops will drill bulkhead holes (I'm assuming that's what you're doing) for about $15-20, and for a little more, they might even come to your house, if your tank is too big to bring to the shop.
I had my 20L drilled for $16 at a local shop down the street. I actually carried it there and back, and can imagine what an odd sight I must have been, carrying an aquarium down the street.
It is VERY EASY to drill glass. Although, you will need to use a diamond tipped core bit. A cheap core bit is all you need - assuming you're not planning to drill hundreds of holes.
Do a search for threads if you're planning to do it youself.
Be sure that the glass is not tempered - it's almost impossible to drill (it has a habbit of shattering).
Ignore anyone who has never done this - how could they possibly know how hard it is?
Do a search for threads if you're planning to do it youself.
Be sure that the glass is not tempered - it's almost impossible to drill (it has a habbit of shattering).
Ignore anyone who has never done this - how could they possibly know how hard it is?
I HAVE drilled glass before, and drilling a large hole that is straight and doesn't have any chipping on the edges takes more than one try. The suggestion was b/c its better to let a professional do something when he has to pay for it if he f's it up.
Mindless - it's no harder to drill a hole in glass than it is to drill a hole in a brick.
This question comes up several times a month and if you do a search for threads from this forum you'll find tips on how to do this with great ease.
Jazzyreef should have a look at these too - there's several very easy no mess ways of keeping the core bit cool and lubricated while cutting.
This question comes up several times a month and if you do a search for threads from this forum you'll find tips on how to do this with great ease.
Jazzyreef should have a look at these too - there's several very easy no mess ways of keeping the core bit cool and lubricated while cutting.
You know JazzyReef the problem you have is that there are lots of people in this forum who know that what you're saying is utter drivel.
I am one of these people and I have no problem correcting the miss-information that you're giving.
Every hole I have cut in glass has been done with a generic variable speed drill with a 1/4" chuck.
If you had been on this forum a little longer you would know that this question comes up very frequently.
Since your view is that it's difficult to drill holes in glass, it's simply not credible that you're experienced doing this. Since, everyone who has done this, using a diamond core bit, knows how amasingly easy it is.
For completeness this is how to cut a hole in a piece of glass.
1. Confirm the glass is not tempered. The bottoms of large tanks are sometimes tempered - it's very rare for the sides or back to be.
2. Dip end of core bit into a glass of water.
3. commence cutting the hole when you desire. Apply only light pressure. Some people find that using a piece of wood with a hole of the right size in it aids in starting the hole.
4. Every ten seconds or so stop drilling and dip the end of the core bit in the glass of water. This keeps the cutting surface wet and the core bit cool. Continue the drilling.
Expect it to take several minutes to get through 10mm glass. You may want to wear ear muffs - whether you need to or not depends on the width of the cutting surface on the core bit. It is much easier to use a core bit with a very thin cutting surface - these also make much less noise and they cost more too...
Once you are nearly through to the other side then you need to use very light pressure to prevent chipping once you finally break thorugh.
I am one of these people and I have no problem correcting the miss-information that you're giving.
Every hole I have cut in glass has been done with a generic variable speed drill with a 1/4" chuck.
If you had been on this forum a little longer you would know that this question comes up very frequently.
Since your view is that it's difficult to drill holes in glass, it's simply not credible that you're experienced doing this. Since, everyone who has done this, using a diamond core bit, knows how amasingly easy it is.
For completeness this is how to cut a hole in a piece of glass.
1. Confirm the glass is not tempered. The bottoms of large tanks are sometimes tempered - it's very rare for the sides or back to be.
2. Dip end of core bit into a glass of water.
3. commence cutting the hole when you desire. Apply only light pressure. Some people find that using a piece of wood with a hole of the right size in it aids in starting the hole.
4. Every ten seconds or so stop drilling and dip the end of the core bit in the glass of water. This keeps the cutting surface wet and the core bit cool. Continue the drilling.
Expect it to take several minutes to get through 10mm glass. You may want to wear ear muffs - whether you need to or not depends on the width of the cutting surface on the core bit. It is much easier to use a core bit with a very thin cutting surface - these also make much less noise and they cost more too...
Once you are nearly through to the other side then you need to use very light pressure to prevent chipping once you finally break thorugh.
I have a standard drill with no press, and I've drilled a least two dozen tanks. The only tanks I have a problem with are 10g tanks because the glass is so thin. I crack about half of them. I've never cracked a tank with thicker glass.
You do need the diamond hole saw though. Regular bits won't do.
You also need a coolant liquid on the area you are drilling to keep it from getting too hot.
The glass bits are pretty expensive. I paid around $100 for mine. If you only need one or two holes drilled, you are better off going to the glass shop.
Peter
[ March 29, 2002: Message edited by: aakks ]</p>
You do need the diamond hole saw though. Regular bits won't do.
The glass bits are pretty expensive. I paid around $100 for mine. If you only need one or two holes drilled, you are better off going to the glass shop.
Peter
[ March 29, 2002: Message edited by: aakks ]</p>
Generally, most non mechanically-inclined people would consider all the steps involved rather difficult. I realize that for those of us that are, we might consider it easy. The statement I made concerning difficulty applied to amount of time, money, and energy expended. Not the actual holding of the drill. A monkey could do that.
The point, echoed by JimM, is that spending a few bucks at the local glass shop is a lot less draining for MOST people's spare time and pocketbook. Teapotman, I wish I had $100 to spend on a glass drillbit, and the 20-30 minutes it would take me to get through 3/8" glass.
I'd rather spend that time looking at my tank, or doing water changes or something.
The point, echoed by JimM, is that spending a few bucks at the local glass shop is a lot less draining for MOST people's spare time and pocketbook. Teapotman, I wish I had $100 to spend on a glass drillbit, and the 20-30 minutes it would take me to get through 3/8" glass.
I'd rather spend that time looking at my tank, or doing water changes or something.
We've done hundreds of tanks, all with a standard variable speed handheld drill. We do have the diamond drill bits and in fact just ordered a bunch of new ones to replace some worn out bits, and they run on average about $80 bucks a pop. It's quite easy to do, however if you only expect to have 1 or 2 holes drilled it just makes no sense to do it yourself. Take it to a glass shop or LFS.
I just got a 1-3/4" Diamon Core Drill Bit form Ameriglas http://www.shopsmartxpress.com/AmeriGls/AmrDefault.htm?M9.htm I payed around 40-50 bucks, I don´t remeber
I also bought a Drill Guide at Sears ($30), You can fine it also at Home Depot, but the on in Sears is the same price and better Quality.
Now I´m ready to drill my tank...I got these tools because nobody around here wanted to drill my tank...So what! I´ll drill it myself.
Forgot...I´ve read that is good to go half the way from each side of the glass. And also heard that the hole can be done with sand blast.
Regards..
I also bought a Drill Guide at Sears ($30), You can fine it also at Home Depot, but the on in Sears is the same price and better Quality.
Now I´m ready to drill my tank...I got these tools because nobody around here wanted to drill my tank...So what! I´ll drill it myself.
Forgot...I´ve read that is good to go half the way from each side of the glass. And also heard that the hole can be done with sand blast.
Regards..
Whether the glass is tempered or not really doesn't matter as long as you know what your doing. Yes,glass will shatter,crack or even spider-web on you....but if you use "PAINTERS" masking tape on both sides and drill slowly with a diamond bit then your all set.One thing you do have to keep in mind is the amount of stress around the surrounding area of the glass after installing the plumbing.My advice after having drilled those holes is to add some kind of support plates to both the inside of the glass and the outside with the plates being no smaller than 1/8 in thickness and being about an 1" in length from the outer edge of the drilled holes.
Example:
Say you drill a 1" diameter hole for the plumbing....then you would need a 3" square plate for it.If you drill them side by side with a spacing of 1/2" then you'll need a 3"x4.5"plate.
Use an adhesive to place both plates around the holes......Or even before you drill the holes you add these plates first and the drill through the plates and the glass at the same time.Making it easier for you when you need to align the plates and the plumbing through the hole in the glass.
Example:
Say you drill a 1" diameter hole for the plumbing....then you would need a 3" square plate for it.If you drill them side by side with a spacing of 1/2" then you'll need a 3"x4.5"plate.
Use an adhesive to place both plates around the holes......Or even before you drill the holes you add these plates first and the drill through the plates and the glass at the same time.Making it easier for you when you need to align the plates and the plumbing through the hole in the glass.
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by sandman3467:
<strong>Whether the glass is tempered or not really doesn't matter as long as you know what your doing...</strong><hr></blockquote>
Why does this keep coming up?
You CAN NOT drilll tempered glass. Not at all. Know matter how much you know!
It will explode. Every time. Without exception.
Tempering is a process to strengthen the glass. Either it is done with very high temperature, or in a chemical process where the glass is dipped in potassium nitrate at about 450 degrees C.
In either case, it causes the molecules at the glass' surface to compress together making the glass harder and stronger, but also building in huge amounts of stress. It takes a lot more force to damage tempered glass, but when it does get damaged (like by an attempt to drill it or cut it!), the internal stresses are all released at once and the sheet of glass literally explodes leaving no piece larger than about 1/4".
If you don't believe me try it, but wear gloves, goggles, mask, etc...
If you managed to drill or cut it, then is was not tempered to begin with!
<strong>Whether the glass is tempered or not really doesn't matter as long as you know what your doing...</strong><hr></blockquote>
Why does this keep coming up?
You CAN NOT drilll tempered glass. Not at all. Know matter how much you know!
It will explode. Every time. Without exception.
Tempering is a process to strengthen the glass. Either it is done with very high temperature, or in a chemical process where the glass is dipped in potassium nitrate at about 450 degrees C.
In either case, it causes the molecules at the glass' surface to compress together making the glass harder and stronger, but also building in huge amounts of stress. It takes a lot more force to damage tempered glass, but when it does get damaged (like by an attempt to drill it or cut it!), the internal stresses are all released at once and the sheet of glass literally explodes leaving no piece larger than about 1/4".
If you don't believe me try it, but wear gloves, goggles, mask, etc...
If you managed to drill or cut it, then is was not tempered to begin with!
I saw a slick piece of drilling the other day. The dealer made a wall around the drill site with soft brown putty. The wall was only a half-inch thick. He filled it with water to form a small pond on the top of the glass. Then he drilled slowly through the center of the water. When the hole was made, the water dropped quickly into the tank. The water kept the drill cool and let him work faster. I thought it was neat trick.
Posted by Sea Weed:
There is not much that can't be drilled. Its just a case of how you do it. It sound to me that you are trying to push the drill through the glass instead of drilling it. Nice and slowly does it you have all the time in the world.
Thats true, alot of things can be drilled, however tempered glass is not one of them
.
Steve
There is not much that can't be drilled. Its just a case of how you do it. It sound to me that you are trying to push the drill through the glass instead of drilling it. Nice and slowly does it you have all the time in the world.
Thats true, alot of things can be drilled, however tempered glass is not one of them
Steve
I have just drilled two holes for my new refugium and, while it took some time and about $6, it was a successful attempt. At Lowes or Home Depot you can get diamond engraving bits for a Dremmel tool. I superglued a slice off of a PVC end cap that had the inner diameter of the hole I wanted to cut and glued the remaining piece of endcap on the other side of the glass under the first piece. I filled the sliced-off circle of end cap with fluid--I used antifreeze but I guess water would work--for cooling the bit. The end cap under where you want to drill catches the drips.
I very slowly started to drill a semi-vertical hole(dremel states that the bit is not for drilling) and once thru the glass I slowly ran the bit around the inside of the slice of end cap. 20 minutes later I had two perfectly adequate holes for bulkheads. If you don't use cooling fluid or try to go too fast, the bit turns a nice bright red and then you get to go to home depot for another...experience.
I looked for diamond bits for a roto drilling tool I have but could not find any at all. That would have been much simpler and quicker.
I very slowly started to drill a semi-vertical hole(dremel states that the bit is not for drilling) and once thru the glass I slowly ran the bit around the inside of the slice of end cap. 20 minutes later I had two perfectly adequate holes for bulkheads. If you don't use cooling fluid or try to go too fast, the bit turns a nice bright red and then you get to go to home depot for another...experience.
I looked for diamond bits for a roto drilling tool I have but could not find any at all. That would have been much simpler and quicker.
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