What is a sump good for in a FO tank? Is it just to add hardware like skimmers, heaters, etc? Is there another purpose other than to add more capacity to the system? Can I still use a trickle filter and water changes with gravel vaccuming or is that now a thing of the past in FO tanks?
what is a sump good for??
- Thread starter dgasmd
- Start date
Lots of things. You've already mentioned some. Don't minimize the aspect of adding more capacity to the system - more volume = more stability. The sump, as you point out, is a great place to hide unsightly equipment such as heaters, skimmers, etc. It's a good place to do water addition and changes - less stress on livestock in the main tank. For reefs its the best place to drip kalk or add any other chemicals/additives. A sump can also be subdivided to allow for additional sand bed filtration and/or a refugium that will allow for nutrient export through macroalgae harvesting and populations of 'pods and other critters that will feed your fish. The books you have on order will point these things out and explain in more detail.
regards,
rw
p.s. with a functioning sandbed and LR, you won't need the trickle filter [w/time they turn into nitrate factories which will stress your fish],and vacuuming the sand bed [not gravel as the sand bed infauna that do your cleanup will not live in gravel]will remove the worms, etc. that perform all the cleanup duties, not to mention bacteria populations which are your biofiltration to break down the nitrogen compounds that will toxify your system. Sandbed and LR established and then let be will handle all your filtration, along with a good skimmer. Having established this set up, you're not only good for FO, but stand in good shape to convert to reef if/when that happens. It's a very common disease
[ March 31, 2002: Message edited by: reefworm ]</p>
regards,
rw
p.s. with a functioning sandbed and LR, you won't need the trickle filter [w/time they turn into nitrate factories which will stress your fish],and vacuuming the sand bed [not gravel as the sand bed infauna that do your cleanup will not live in gravel]will remove the worms, etc. that perform all the cleanup duties, not to mention bacteria populations which are your biofiltration to break down the nitrogen compounds that will toxify your system. Sandbed and LR established and then let be will handle all your filtration, along with a good skimmer. Having established this set up, you're not only good for FO, but stand in good shape to convert to reef if/when that happens. It's a very common disease
[ March 31, 2002: Message edited by: reefworm ]</p>
The advantage to a trickle filter if you already have it is that you do not have to invest the tons of money in sand and live rock.
But if you do not have a trickle filter I would recommend that you start with sand and add cured rock from time to time slowly for the resaons already indicated.
The key is to go slow adding the fish. The first one at 3 months and than one each month thereafter.
But if you do not have a trickle filter I would recommend that you start with sand and add cured rock from time to time slowly for the resaons already indicated.
The key is to go slow adding the fish. The first one at 3 months and than one each month thereafter.
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by dimaggio:
<strong>"The key is to go slow adding the fish. The first one at 3 months and than one each month thereafter. "
If I am adding the fish at 3 months, what am I keeping in the tank until then? Well aerated water and sand?
</strong><hr></blockquote>
Seems like a long time, but in the grand scheme of things, it's really not. And you'll be amazed at all the neat stuff you'll find in your live rock. I've had my tank a year and still find new stuff. I just found a little clam the other day.
3 months naesco?
I definitely wouldn't add more than one a month though. How big is your tank?
<strong>"The key is to go slow adding the fish. The first one at 3 months and than one each month thereafter. "
If I am adding the fish at 3 months, what am I keeping in the tank until then? Well aerated water and sand?
Seems like a long time, but in the grand scheme of things, it's really not. And you'll be amazed at all the neat stuff you'll find in your live rock. I've had my tank a year and still find new stuff. I just found a little clam the other day.
3 months naesco?
I definitely wouldn't add more than one a month though. How big is your tank?
You're keeping lots of stuff. Its not just sand and rock, its literally tens to hundreds of thousands of benthic creatures that will constitute your biological filter. The seeming long delay is to give the populations time to develop and cycle so that they can handle the increased bio/nutrient load that will come with the fish - increased food, fish urine and excrement, etc. Again, this system is not like a freshwater system that can be up and running in a couple weeks. Its far more complex and interdependent. Once established, it will practically run itself. It just takes time.
regards,
-rw
regards,
-rw
<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote
I know it sounds crazy, but I agree w/ Naesco. You can add snails, etc in the first 3 months but you will be happier in the long run waiting until the system settles down and your sand starts to get populated w/ critters before adding your first fish.
Ernie
I know it sounds crazy, but I agree w/ Naesco. You can add snails, etc in the first 3 months but you will be happier in the long run waiting until the system settles down and your sand starts to get populated w/ critters before adding your first fish.
Ernie
Check out as many LFS as you can and buy yourself a couple of live rock with all kinds of neat stuff growing on them. Than watch for the next couple of months all the really neat stuff that comes out of and grows on those rock. Trust me you will be amazed.
During this time check out the LFS for quality fish and prices and determine what your your stocking plan will be. Time flys when you are having fun.
The alternative is to stock up right away, impress your friends and spend the next six months fighting algae and all the other problems with moving too fast.
Having said this, a small fish won't hurt after a couple of months though.
During this time check out the LFS for quality fish and prices and determine what your your stocking plan will be. Time flys when you are having fun.
The alternative is to stock up right away, impress your friends and spend the next six months fighting algae and all the other problems with moving too fast.
Having said this, a small fish won't hurt after a couple of months though.
I must be missing something here. If I add the live sand to the existing dead sand bed and just let it run for a couple of months, what are those critters supposed to eat? It was my understanding that the bacteria and eco-system one is trying to stablish does need a form of nutrient, which is where feeding the fish and the fish excrement came in.
So let me see if I get this right:
Fill the tank with salt water and the sand bed. Then, add live sand and some live rock for seeding. Then, wait 2-3 months with just that running and then add the first fish? Of course, with learning, reading, and so on in between.
Will some of the life forms that come with the rock thrive despite not having full spectrum lighting? I just have regular fluorescent lighting and do not plan to buy anything else since it is only a fish only tank.
Thanks for all the input in advance. I already feel much better with all this support behind me.
So let me see if I get this right:
Fill the tank with salt water and the sand bed. Then, add live sand and some live rock for seeding. Then, wait 2-3 months with just that running and then add the first fish? Of course, with learning, reading, and so on in between.
Will some of the life forms that come with the rock thrive despite not having full spectrum lighting? I just have regular fluorescent lighting and do not plan to buy anything else since it is only a fish only tank.
Thanks for all the input in advance. I already feel much better with all this support behind me.
Dimaggio,
Good questions.
1]Yes, you should feed the DSB, minimally as the benthic creatures won't need a lot of food, esp. at first when just getting established. You can then track ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels as they spike in turn. When nitrate levels drop to zero, your system has "cycled" and should then handle the gradual introduction of livestock. Any other significant additions of LS or LR may cause the tank to cycle again. The resulting spikes in ammonia and nitrate will be stress factors on the fish, so it's not recommended if you can help it.
2]the creatures that will do poorly under NO light are photosynthetic ones, such as any corals or anemones that may hitchhike in on the LR. Most of the infauna [creatures living in the sandbed]don't require large amounts of light, so you should be OK there.
all the best in your endeavor,
-rw
Good questions.
1]Yes, you should feed the DSB, minimally as the benthic creatures won't need a lot of food, esp. at first when just getting established. You can then track ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels as they spike in turn. When nitrate levels drop to zero, your system has "cycled" and should then handle the gradual introduction of livestock. Any other significant additions of LS or LR may cause the tank to cycle again. The resulting spikes in ammonia and nitrate will be stress factors on the fish, so it's not recommended if you can help it.
2]the creatures that will do poorly under NO light are photosynthetic ones, such as any corals or anemones that may hitchhike in on the LR. Most of the infauna [creatures living in the sandbed]don't require large amounts of light, so you should be OK there.
all the best in your endeavor,
-rw
If you are talking about the lights that are in the ceilings of some of our homes change them to aquaria lighting. The types range from better than home type to coral type and so does the price.
Keep the temperature and salinity higher 83F/1.026 which gets the critters multiplying quicker.
Drop a few sinking pellets of something and see the worms go crazy at night. (use a red bulb).
Than add your first fish.
Keep the temperature and salinity higher 83F/1.026 which gets the critters multiplying quicker.
Drop a few sinking pellets of something and see the worms go crazy at night. (use a red bulb).
Than add your first fish.
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