Initial Tank Water

[hgsports]

OK, so I'm sold on the fact that I need an RO/DI unit for regulat water changes..... what about starting up the tank for the first time? Can i use tap water while I'm cycling live rock for the first month or should i have the RO water from the start?


Any comments would be appreciated!


Thanks!

John Garber
Homegrown Sports Inc http://www.homegrownsports.com
[email protected]

 

[Goldmoon]

Here is an answer from Bob Fenner when same question was asked:

Q: I am setting up a new 110 gallon fish only + live rock tank. I want to know if I can use tap water for the first filling (after that I will have RO/DI water). If so, what unwanted chemicals will cycling not remove (phosphates, heavy metals), and what should I test for during (or after?)cycling? What's the best means (brand names would be appreciated)to remove or neutralize such unwanted chemicals (additives, 'sponges', carbon, etc.)


A: Good questions and good plan. I would do the same... well, do do the same. Cycle the tank with tap water-made synthetic. No unwanted chemicals to remove that cycling the system and the course of water changing, etc. won't take out. Do monitor ammonia and nitrite and keep under 1.0 ppm by water changes (once again made with tapwater is fine). Also watch alkalinity (best kept at 3.5meq/l by simple baking soda, sodium bicarbonate additions) daily to aid the LR settling in and recovering. At a month or two (not before) do consider activated carbon and/or a Polyfilter (tm) to remove excess dissolved organics and color. After the system has completely cycled run the skimmer full out during this break in period... Bob Fenner

(taken from this: http://support.software911.com/ffexpress/faqdetail.asp?fid=1314 )

Hope this help?

 

[hgsports]

Thanks, that perfect. This post mentioned "run the skimmer full out after the cycling". Does that imply that I should not be using the protein skimmer while cycling the live rock?

John

 

[Anonymous]

hgsports-
I'd encourage you to start with RO/DI. Cycling will not remove silicates or phosphates that will probably come with your tapwater. It takes a lot of water changes to bring those levels down to zero. Until then, you're leaving the door wide open for undesirable algae. It makes things so much easier when you start right.

Unless you can find out the makeup of your tapwater and are satisfied that it isn't going to cause problems, go with RO/DI or at least run it through a TapWaterPurifier.

I would run the skimmer from the getgo (or when NO3 comes up above zero). It won't have a really big affect on cycle time, but it'll help you stay ahead of the nitrates.

Ty