Electrical connection

[AF Founder]

To experts on electrical connections. I have a 11-amp, 115-v Dolphin pump connected to a external GFI, which is plugged into a 20-amp line. This is the only connection on that line. I'm concerned that the plug, which plugs into the GFI gets quite warm to touch. It works fine, but should I be concerned?
Terry

 

[Green Mariner]

Hi Terry, It sounds to me like the pump is pulling quite a few amps, maybe a little more than it should. The plug should never be "quite warm to touch". I would consider returning it if it is a new pump, if not see if you can find someone to "bench test" the pump to see if there is a problem with it. I would also test the GFI to make sure that's ok.
I haven't been an electrician for almost 10 years, but that's my opinion, better safe than sorry!
HTH

 

[johnreb]

Did the pump come with it's own cord? I know some don't. If you supplied your own cord it could be that the gauge is too small.

 

[AF Founder]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by johnreb:
<STRONG>Did the pump come with it's own cord? I know some don't. If you supplied your own cord it could be that the gauge is too small.</STRONG><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

It came with its own cord, heavy duty. Its the plug that gets warm, which also came with the unit. I sanded the prongs on the plug, and that helped. Now it only gets a little warm to the touch. The pump is a Dolphin 6300, 1-horse power.
Terry

 

[gka]

I would be surprised if the steady-state current draw of the pump is actually 11amps but it could be. The safety approvals (ie UL) required for the pump would not allow for the rating of the power cord to be such as to even get mildly warm. It is either a bad pump or the plug you have it connected to has a problem. I have seen cases where a loose connection between the wall plug and the wiring in the wall caused this sort of problem. It could also be that your wiring to the plug is small - 14 guage pulling around 15 amps can get slightly warm - but I would suspect either the pump or the wall outlet.

 

[Rick O]

Since you're using the cord that came with the pump I'm thinking along the lines of a loose connection. My house is thirty years old and over time a lot of the receptacles have become loose and worn out. This will cause an excessive heat build up and high amp draw. If the outlet seems loose and sloppy when you plug the pump in then I would replace it. Otherwise remove the outlet and check to see that all of the wiring connections are tight.

 

[Rich-n-poor]

check the wiring on the GFCI it should be marked 14/3 or 14/2 if this is the case 14 gauge wire should only be connected to a 15 amp breaker according to my local code it should really be wired using 12 gauge or 10 gauge wire IMO

also 11 amps is alot of current to pull this must be peak draw on this device i think at any rate I wired my addition and i think i would consult an electrician on this one

good luck

_________________
joint rolling

 

[AF Founder]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Rich-n-poor:
<STRONG>check the wiring on the GFCI it should be marked 14/3 or 14/2 if this is the case 14 gauge wire should only be connected to a 15 amp breaker according to my local code it should really be wired using 12 gauge or 10 gauge wire IMO

also 11 amps is alot of current to pull this must be peak draw on this device i think at any rate I wired my addition and i think i would consult an electrician on this one

good luck

</STRONG><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks for all the suggestions. What I eventually did was to remove the GFI, mostly because it has to be manually reset if the power in the area goes down, and that happens alot. I plugged it directly into a new 20-amp single female. Now it barely feels warm to the touch. The problem with GFIs is that they have to be manually reset. Now I only use them on everything but the main circulation pump. If I'm away for a day and the power goes out, and I'm not there to reset the GFI, I could lose aniamls I've had for close to 20-years. it's hard to defeat Murphy
Terry

 

[suckair]

I thinks Pumps are one of the most important things to GFI. I run GFI's on my pumps the largest is a Ampmaster 3000 and have no problems. I know that the 3000 is 1/10 the pump but I would think a GFI is a good thing.

Randall
PS mine never reset on power fail!

 

[Rich-n-poor]

my intention wasnt for you to remove the gfci altogether just to make sure the wire and outlet it self was up to the current draw

i.e. 12 gauge wire minimum on a 20 amp breaker and a gfci capable of handling that kinda draw

a gfci is always a good idea but a hot plug is a fire waiting to happen
_________________
Rehab Forum

 

[AF Founder]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Rich-n-poor:
<STRONG>my intention wasnt for you to remove the gfci altogether just to make sure the wire and outlet it self was up to the current draw

i.e. 12 gauge wire minimum on a 20 amp breaker and a gfci capable of handling that kinda draw

The GFI I was using could handle the draw. What concerns me about a GFI, on the main water circulation pump is that in the event of a town blackout, which usually only lasts on average about an hour, when it comes back the GFI has to be manually reset. If there is on one to reset it than the system would be without water circulation for as long as I'm away from home. That's my point in removing the GFI from the main pump. So, is there a GFI that doesn't need to be reset after a blackout, when the town's power comes back. If I'm home I start up ther generator and reset the GFIs. But, again, what if I'm not home for let's say 12-hours?
Terry

a gfci is always a good idea but a hot plug is a fire waiting to happen</STRONG><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>