need advice on ugf removal

[skowens]

I am currently running a 55 FO using a Fluval 304 and a UGF that was built into the tank when it was given to me. Have 3" of crushed coral substrate. Tank has been up and running for over a year now and is doing great. I am planning to add a skimmer (prizm) and to do this I am going to have to move the tank out about 3" from the wall to have enough clearance. I am also planning upgrade my lighting system and add live rock in the future. The question is, when I am in the process of moving the tank should I try to remove the UGF? I have read a lot of negative stuff out there about UGFs and while I would hate to have to completely dismantle my setup I would rather do it now to save problems in the long run. Any advice on the UGF and on moving the tank would be helpful and appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

[Mouse]

If you block it up then you could have yourself a Phlenum system. Check to see if your current configuration meets the requirements of a Phlenum system. You may just have to block it off and add more sand. As a rough rule of thumb a phlenum should consist of a 1 inch water space, then a 3 inch layer of live sand. Seen as your tank is allready established all your sand should be live.

 

[Mouse]

P.S. why dont you cut a hole in the end of the hood and put the skimmer on the side, thats the way i have mine, then you wont have to move the tank.

 

[Jeff Southernwood]

I did the same thing Mouse suggested. It has worked great on my 55 gallon tank. There is no need to remove the UGF IMO. Maybe somebody else has more experience, and can reply.

 

[skowens]

Thanks for the replies. I think I would rather have the skimmer on the back of the tank for for 2 reasons, 1 being looks and the other that I have a 3 year old and I think it would be better if it were not so accessable!

I am not using live sand but have apx 3" of crushed coral. How would that work if I simply removed the riser and left everything else in place? This is a homemade riser that consists of a resin bottom formed around a PVC pipe that supports the powerhead and it sits on top of the ugf plate so it would be simple to remove. I guess the main ? is do I need to discontinue the use of the ugf before upgrading to live rock? I have read other posts about ugfs being sludge traps and causing high nitrate and phosphate levels. Also concerned about the lr restricting the water flow through the ugf. I enjoy this hobby more than any I have ever had I just wish I had more answers than questions!

 

[Mouse]

Well you cant get better advice than expirience.

 

[skowens]

This is good stuff,thanks. Two questions (yeah I know). Would it be feasable to just remove all of the water and reuse all but say 20% so that it would be like a regular water change. If I did that, removed the bottom plate and crushed coral and thoroughly cleaned the bottom of the tank, I could then return most of the origional water and still have the cycled bio rings etc in my cannister. 2nd question is how expensive and where to get live sand?

 

[Rich-n-poor]

well this is my expierence....

can you add live rock over crushed coral and UGF yes I ran my tank like this for 5 years but it requires you to constantly vacumn the crushed coral and even then you have an algea bloom that just wont go away

I can tell you nothing about a plennum system as i never had one

This is how i converted my UGF with crushed coral to live sand....

First I got a large rubbermaid tub 18 gallon in size and transfered some live rock a heater and my livestock to this and used a powerhead for circulation

second I scooped all the crushed coral out by hand and pitched it in a trash can (could have kept it for something im sure)

Third I left the remaining rock in the tank and removed the UGF This will cause one nasty mess in the tank and you dont want your livestock in there

Fourth I left my power filter running the whole time to suck up all the built up grunge which was trapped beneath the plate

Fifth I vacumed the glass tank bottom every 4 hours or so when some grunge had settled until it was clean You will go thru alot of filter pads as this grunge gets sucked up just toss the pad and recycle the carbon

The good is you get rid of all the trapped grunge under this filter for good...the bad is that initially it gets suspended in the water column at least initially

my fish were in the rubbermade tub for about 36 hours total and i redudced the number of fish i had from 6 mixed clowns to 2 perculas before attempting this (just trade at the LFS for stuff i needed) all my snails hermits and two anenomes survived this transition but it is important to not that I left a large amout of rock in the tank to keep at least part of the biological filter in place

The drawbacks are this:

your tank will recycle as a large portion of the biological filter has been removed

Your nitrates will spike intially but then drop off rapidly as the cycle is already partially in force

you will get an imeddiate algea bloom like in 6 days not 6 months because of the elevated nitrates

You will go thru alot of salt as you vacumn the tank and replace with new water

It leaves you in the position of having to place fish back into a tank not fully cycled

but all in all i am much happier with the system I have now I.E. sand rock and a skimmer with powerheads for cirulation. No crushed coral to vacumn no water changes just top off and supplements to keep calcium alkalinity and ect in line Its the most success Ive had yet with saltwater

hope this helps....been there done that lol
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Mercedes W136