Hopefully, you're rearrangement of rocks/powerheads will work for you. With the setup described, it sounds like you've got plenty of water distribution, and I suspect it's more a nutrient availability problem. Although your nutrient levels may read "fine," test kits do not accurately reflect total nutrient levels within the tank. Growth of cyano indicates a presence of excess nutrients, and the reason your test kits read zero is because these nutrients have been assimilated and recycled by various organisms, least desirable of which is cyano.
In light of this, my advice is perform a series of larger (30-50%) weekly water changes over the next few months, and siphon out as much cyanobacteria as possible every time you perform a water change. This will effectively export nutrients (dissolved in water and assimilated in cyano) from the system. It's imperative your source water is nutrient-free. Although you claim that your work water is pristine (and probably is), I would test it nonetheless for ammonia/ammonium, nitrogen oxides, and phosphor oxides. The only form of nutrient export is source water and feedings/additives (you may want to cut back a little on these).
This is probably advice you've already been given, but aside from nutrient control and oxygen availability, there's little else you can do to control cyanobacteria short of antibiotics.