Questions on chillers?

[toptank]

I have read something regarding chillers and I really do not know the advantages and disadvantages of a dropin vs inline. One dealer says that the inline is mostly for someone who does not have a sump.

I guess with all the problems I have had in the past months with running higher watt MH and losing all my SPS due to a heat spike, I am thinking of getting a chiller and would really like to hear the differnce from people who have both.

Thanks
Barry

 

[reefmister]

I went to a chiller a couple of years ago for the same reasons. I would suggest the drop in model. I find it to be more verstile and it lowers the amount of plumbing. Also if in the future you add equiptment that takes up space in your sump, the drop in is very easy to move.

just my thoughts.
good luck

 

[Anonymous]

hi.
I use DIY drop in chiller, but you need good circulation within the sump to work well.
bye -ck-

 

[Gatortailale1]

If and when I do get a chiller I will buy a Aqua Logic Cyclone. 2 year warranty. I haven't done much pricing, but I know that champion lighting carries them and their price includes a digital temp controller device. Some other vendors charge extra for temp controller.

see champion page: (no I don't work for them, but I have made 3 separate orders last 2 months and got great service each time.)

http://www.championlighting.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?page=Products/Chillers/chillers.html&cart_id=4583005.30907

 

[toptank]

The thing I am worried about is the amount of Amps required to run it. I only have a 15amp breaker in my fish room and don't know how much it would cost me to put in new wiring with bigger breaker.

Barry

 

[reefmister]

I wouldnt run either chillers with out at least a 20 amp ( solo for the chiller) I have a 30 on mine. To change over is very easy. Just find out the manufacture of the breaker, go to HD get a 30 amp in that type. If you need to know how to wire it I will tell you its simple ( 10 mins max.)

 

[toptank]

mobrien, when are you coming down here? I will buy the stuff needed. I live in a townhouse so don't know how easy that would be. It is a 2 story townhouse with a breaker panel in the hallway and the main breaker panel is outside with a 90 amp breaker for the unit.

 

[Len]

20 dedicated amps for a chiller is unneccessary, unless you've got a 1 hp chiller. A common 1/4 hp chiller only draws about 5 to 6 amps. Of course, with lights, pumps, etc. on a 15 amp circuit, you'll likely run out, or come very close to running out of juice. But you don't need an individual breaker just for a chiller.

I've found inlines are more "dumbie proof" and usually more efficient at cooling (there are rare circumstances they may not be). They do require the extra hassle of plumbing, but on the flipside, you can situate the chiller anywhere you'd like (within reason).

The biggest difference you'll see is the vitality of your fishes. Temp swings, however natural in the wild, are particularly stressful to fish in captivity. Of course, you're corals will appreciate the stability as well

 

[reefmister]

Toptank is the plug you want to put the chiller on the breaker alone or does it handle other devices.

Leonard.
You are right in saying it does not need a seperate breaker to run the unit alone. But through experence If the breake has to many or even other devices on it, it will surge your panel when it comes on and off. Also it has a chance off not drawing the amps it needs, thus hurting the motor. My suggestion was to make it a no problem solution.

 

[Len]

Good points. It's just that installing another circuit to his room isn't a "no problem solution."

He needs to work around that (eg expanding the capicity of his current circuit, no pun intended). Right now, he's only got 15 amps to play with on one circuit (? plugs).