Metal Halide Advice

[cman]

Ok. I have $450 - $500 dollars to spend on new metal halides retros and I'm looking for advice. I decided to take the plunge and get 2 250W.

Here's the deal - I have a 90gal with 440W VHO already. Mostly LPS and softies. Would like to mix in some SPS and clams and end up with a mixed tank.

I know that there are many opinions out there as to bulb colors (blue, not enough blue, yellow, green tint ....) I personally like a tanks with a slightly blue tint.

I plan on using my VHO's with 4 actinic bulbs. Maybe I'll make one a 50/50.

Help me spend my money. I've looked at lampsnow.com, premiumaquatics.com, and champion lighting. What would you suggest? Magnetic, Electronic, 6500K, 10K,......?


Also, I was told that the retro kit from lampsnow doesn't include a quick disconnect wiring harness. Is this typical of MH kits? My VHO has one and it is very handy.

Thanks for taking the time to help!!!

 

[toptank]

I had 250s on my 90 before setting up my 180. I tried several bulbs. On my web page there is a light comparison.

I just recently got PFO retro from Marine Depot with quick disconnect cords. I like the PFO myself. Besure when you get them that they will burn other Kelvin rated bulbs other than just 6,500K.

If you like more blue then don't get 6,500K, get 10,000K or 12K but with the 12K use white suppliments. You can see what I am talking about if you check out my site.

Barry

[ November 27, 2001: Message edited by: toptank ]</p>

 

[AnotherGoldenTeapot]

The ballast determines only the generic type of bulb you can burn. The color (kelvin) of the bulb is irrelivant in the choice of ballast.

First you need to choose whether you're going to use HQI or "standard" MH.

Then choose the wattage (since the light output of the two types of bulbs is not the same).

That's it in terms of ballast.

The color of the bulb is a totally separate decision.

In reality you make all the decisions in one go. For example, "I want a 250w 10K HQI bulb". Then you go shopping for a "250w HQI" ballast - ignoring the fact you've chosen a 10K one.

 

[AnotherGoldenTeapot]

You won't need those VHO bulbs - 500w of MH will be plenty.

Magnetic ballasts are much cheaper but have higher running costs. Eventually (as in many years later) the electronic ballasts might work out cheaper - assuming they last long enough.

Magentic ballasts (especially the cheap single choke designs that people invariably buy) can suffer from deviations from the "correct" output voltage. That can have a big impact on the observed color and light output of the bulb. This depends on what voltage and how stable your power is out of the wall socket.

I personally like the 10K BLV HQI bulbs. They give a very nice crisp bluish white color. BLV is the main manufacturer of so called "German" bulbs. It's much cheaper to buy these bulbs before they get put into a box with a picture of a fish on the front.

 

[Gatortailale1]

Idea/suggestion: You could use the vho's to do a dawn to dusk effect. Run 2-3 blue actinct and 1 daylight. Then first on last off is blue; 2nd on 2nd off is vho daylight; last on first off is MH bulbs. In the future you can even buy a dimmer for your vho bulbs. That would be a kewl effect IMO.

 

[Anonymous]

For the brightest tank, I would keep the VHO's and use them to deyellow 6500k Iwasaki's. Mixing those two will yield you a very pleasant looking tank. May only need 220 watts of the blue.

The PFO units use a cord with quick disconnect and would be best IMO.

I have what you are looking for instock, with a resupply coming soon, if you care to handle them before you buy and want to take a trip to Nashua.

 

[HARRISON]

Well,
I have an 80 gallon tank and I used 2-250 watt metal halides with 10k blueline bulbs. I also added 2-55 watt PC's, one of which is 10k and the other actinic. I REALLY like the color combo and have compared it to other tanks I have seen. I think if I was going to do it again I wouldn't change...

If I get my chores done I will post a pic of it...

Harrison