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oyster

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Was wondering if a totally silent setup with in-tank overflow, a sump below the main tank and perhaps a tall durso standpipe in the overflow is possible? i intend to have a setup in my room, but am afraid i would have problem sleeping
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. it won't be a large tank, should be in the region of 60G.
 

Quiverfull

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You can probably get it pretty silent but to get things totally quiet, you will probably have to build it in or atleast cover everything. This can create a problem with heat build up which can then necsitate a chiller which not only costs a bundle but also makes alot of noise.
 

oyster

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yeah, i was thinking that it would be quite a difficult task, if at all possible. my idea was to stretch the durso's opening to just slightly below the top of the overflow so that that won't be a waterfall. was wondering if water entering the durso opening would create some kind of gurgling or sucking sound. anyone has any idea or similiar setup? thanks
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Kitta

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My setup is similar to what you have discribed, an in-tank overflow with a tall standpipe. But that's not enough, the water entering the pipe still makes gurling sound. What I have is a ball-valve at the output of the satndpipe below the tank to adjust the amount of water coming down. But that's still not enough because there is a possibility the ball-valve could be blocked and the tank would overflow. I have a second (back-up) standpipe inside the same overflow box for protection. So far the main standpipe with the ball-valve has never failed or clogged up, but if it does, the back up will take over.
 

Mouse

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Kitta, nice remidy. I was just wondering how much higher up your second standpipe was compared to the main one. And secondly, if the firststandpipe were to clog this would surely mean that the level of water in the tank would rise and the level in the sump would drop. I wouldn't consider this a problem except when an automatic top up system is used, do you feel there is any danger at this point of terminal osmoregulation or is the gap sufficiently small that the effects would be inconsiquential.
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Kitta

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The back-up standpipe is about 1/2 to 1 inch below the top of the overflow box. The main standpipe is about 4 inches shorter than the back-up. In my setup, water level is adjusted to between the two standpipes so that there is no gurgling sound. I used 1 inch pvc for the standpipes and the return pump is pumping water back to the tank at 1200gph. The size of your standpipe depends on the gph of water returning to the tank. If the size of the standpipe is too small, you will not be able to adjust the flow.
If the main standpipe is clogged, the water level in the main tank stays the same, only the water level in the overflow would rise. It would rise to the top of the backup standpipe and stops, and water would be draining down the backup pipe. The water level in the sump would drop very little. I have a 35 gal sump and the overflow box is 7x7 inches. If the water level in the overflow box rises a couple of inches, the sump should be able to handle it, even without an auto top off.
 

Jrsydevi1

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Umm.. if you dont have it set up yet, then why not drill your tank, and forget about the standpipe setup? Am I missing something here??
 

oyster

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Thanks for the great ideas. think i'll hook up a Durso.

kitta, your backup standpipe is a great idea.
jrsdevi1, for unexplainable reasons, i simply prefer an intank overflow system
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reefland

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If my original "Durso Standpipe" wasn't totally silent I wouldn't have bothered to publish the web page. It should be totally, 100% silent. Period. The "water fall" should be less than 3 inches or so which will not make a sound. I guess if you have norrow slots and significant pressure is in the tank pushing the water out it might make a splashing sound but I haven't seen that first hand.

I have heard others talk about a sound coming from inside the pipes but I've never seen (err heard) a Durso Standpipe actually do it.

I haven't a clue what might make that happen. Educated guess would be that return pipes are submerged in the sump which tend to cause an air build up in the pipes until enough pressure can burp the air out of the pipes (water level in chambers tends to bounce up and down when this happens). Only submerge the pipes an inch or so.

Or perhaps you used all PVC pipes for the returns and you used 90's which tend to slow down a gravity drain system such as a tank return. I would recommend you use insert adapters out of your bulkheads and use just flex tubing to return to your sump. You'll have nice gentle turns.

I'd also suggest wrapping the clear flex tubing in black electrical tape which will prevent algae from growing in the tubes. It will also reinforce the tubing and prevent any splitting overtime.

I have no idea if the tape is salt water safe, so don't use it on any parts that might get submerged.
 

McFred

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here is my design.
http://rancor.jedi.net/~leiker/jesse/overlow0001.jpg http://rancor.jedi.net/~leiker/jesse/overlow0002.jpg http://rancor.jedi.net/~leiker/jesse/overlow0003.jpg http://rancor.jedi.net/~leiker/jesse/overlow0004.jpg http://rancor.jedi.net/~leiker/jesse/overlow0005.jpg http://rancor.jedi.net/~leiker/jesse/overlow0006.jpg

i don't think that it is like the durso model but it is my model. it is *completely* silent. what it is is a variable siphon aka NO AIR involved. if the water flow increases so does the level in the overflow so that the float (brown donut lookin thing)opens the valve (sleeve slides over slots in stand pipe ) more to accomodate the extra flow and vice versa. it is made of some foam and 2 pieces of PVC epoxied together. there are two different models the earlier pics are of my prototype and the later pics are a little refined. if anybody has any questions my email address is [email protected] it is pretty easy to assemble compact and works like a dream.

[ September 05, 2001: Message edited by: McFred ]
 

McFred

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almost never. my astrae snails will climb on it and clean it off. but one of my floats has no direct light to promote the algae.
 

oyster

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cool, now we have a McFred standpipe
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for those using the durso, do you place the output of the durso above or below the waterline in the sump? i would assume if you place it below, there will be air bubbles since the durso sucks in air? or am i missing something?
 

blownalcohol

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Richard, I believe you are correct about the drains sumerged.How is you're drain above or 1" below water line?I have a basement sump with the drain 3" underwater, and the standpipes make alot of noise from air being sucked into the airholes.I also had a hard time getting the hole size correct, because of the water level bouncing up and down.I plan on changing this today when Lowe's opens.Since i had so much trouble adjusting the air, my dad came up with a solution.The cap is drilled 3/8" and uses a plastic radiator drain plug for a nissan.It makes fine adjustments, and works great.I'll have someone make a pic and post.The drain plugs cost anywhere from $2 to $3 at autozone, pepboys, or any parts house.
 

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