Help me identify this algae please

[Stringztoo1]

I have recently noticed this red algae starting to grow on the rock and the substrate. Bad or good? Here's some pix:

and

and finally

Also... does anyone have a solution for the annoying green algae I have to scrape off the glass every two days? Thanks in advance.

[ September 03, 2001: Message edited by: Stringztoo ]

 

[Anonymous]

It's up to you. It is cyanobacteria. A "blue-green" algae. Truly a bacteria. It abounds when dissolved carbons are high. I suggest looking at your skimmer, it probably isn't working.

Also, try using Chemi-clean powder and then changing water afterwards. It works and is reef safe. I've used it numerous times.

 

[Stringztoo1]

The skimmer has been giving me good foam and is on 24/7. You're saying the red growth is a bacteria and not an algae? Also, any hints on the green algae that forms on the glass?

 

[Mike02]

i thought cyno was supposed to feel slimy. That could be red algae in your tank. i have it too. Mine doesnt feel slimy. i have some red hair algae and some red antler type of algae. Some of the bristleworms eat the hair.

 

[loonz]

Red slime algae,it's not a good sign,check your phosphates level,it's probably too high.

 

[Stringztoo1]

A dose of Phospha-Gone will do the trick? I'm always having to add one of about 15 chemicals every other day.....

Mostly NatuReef products

Iodide
Mg Up
Strontium
Liquid Calcite
Iron Plus
Hardness Plus
Alkalinity Plus
Lifo
Reef Former Concentrate
Bromactine
Corralline Booster
Strontium
Y2K Zyme

Sometimes I feel like I'm mixing drinks....

 

[Stringztoo1]

Sadly, I've been going to this fishstore for at least two years but only been buying for a reef for the past 6 months and he (the owner) showed me his tanks and he says that he uses this stuff every two days and look how his tank is. I paid at least $100 for all those chemicals and use most of them every two days. I test for everything but Mg cause the test kit is $30 and I spent all my money on chems, but everything I end up testing from Salinity to Nitrates to Calcium to Ammonia are all in the "so called" correct limits.

I have a bubble tipped torch and I have noticed that a stalk does off every week or so, right around after I add the chemicals and it's really been bothering me but I bought the torch from this same guy and he/I use the same chems in his tank with both a Hammer torch and a Bubble tipped. Strangely, my Hammer is absolutely flourishing beautifully with no die off! I just don't know.

Tomorrow I go back to the LFS for supplies for the 90 Gal I'm setting up, (my reef is a 40 Gal), and since it'll be too much ca$h to make the 90 a reefer, I'm just buying salt and supplies to get it running to acclimate the water and cycle the tank but I'm going to ask him honestly if I really need all this stuff and why my bubble tip is dying off so often. Did I/am I getting ripped off?

You guys are so nice for the advice ........ you rock

 

[davelin315]

You're being ripped off. You don't need to add all that crap to your water. I dose kalk, and also add strontium/molybdenum, iodine, and also coral vite (don't need this one, but I also don't do water changes, so I figure I'll top off trace elements that way). Other than that, nothing else. Cyanobacteria, which is what the slime algae is, will basically coat whatever it's on with a film that can be spongy or just, for lack of a better term, filmy. It's not really slimy, it just kind of oozes along and covers things like you would think slime would do. From what I understand, it can be caused by long photoperiods, worn out lights, high temperatures, and also, the obvious extra nutrients. You need to just peel it off and toss it out, kind of like aiptasia. I had a problem with it before and I started running chemical filtration and also a product called NO-CYA-NO Red Slime Remover by Ecolibrium, from that fish place/that pet place. I was very nervous about using it, but it seemed to help and didn't hurt my corals (didn't have any sps then). As far as the green algae on the glass, stock up on snails, they'll clear it up for you immediately. I scrape my glass about once a month or so, and that's because I have a ton of snails.

 

[Carpentersreef]

Put all those chemicals in a cool dark place and spend your money on good test kits FIRST. If your test kits show that your levels are down, THEN and only THEN add the chemical and then test again. Try to find out exactly what is in each of those bottles, as well.
Accompany this with weekly or monthly water changes of 10%. (my opinion, some people don't do water changes at all)
Some businesses (including LFS) are salespeople FIRST, and that isn't always in the corals best interest. That's where you come in. Read lots of info via books, internet.
Consider this - if you get test results for zero phosphate, and you still have problem algae, it could be that the algae is growing and is using up the phosphates as fast as you are adding them. Phosphate may not be the only problem, but just the appearance of too much algae is something you should keep an eye on and try to determine why. If your tank is 6 months old it should have cycled long ago.

Mitch

 

[Stringztoo1]

These chems.... I dropped $100+ for them.... Just forget them and use the trace elements? Man THENI feel ripped off.

 

[jdeets]

Yes, Stringztoo, you're getting ripped. Just drip kalk. Buy it in the form of pickling lime at the supermarket for less than $2 a pound. That will take care of your Ca and alk needs, unless you have a really heavy bioload.

I think whether Sr/Mb is needed is also debatable. If you're doing regular water changes, you may not even need to dose that. Iodine is also one that's a little controversial. I dose it every other week. The other weeks I do water changes and don't dose the I2.

Do you realize that with the amount of $$$ you'll spend on all those additives, a Ca rxr would pay for itself in about a year???

With biomineral issues/additives, the best policy is KISS.

HTH

 

[jmeader]

It's cyano. You can have zero phosphates as well as zero nitrates and still get it. It feeds on DOCs, organics, and a protein skimmer doesn't remove them all. You have to filter with carbon for a day or two every once in awhile.

 

[Anonymous]

Holy Bejeezuz, your LFS must adore you!

What the hell are you adding all those products for?

I have never heard of that additive company, but at least one product is an out and out nutrient for problem algaes (Cyanobacteria is truly a bacteria but placed in the 'problem algae' class) and that is Iron.

Most of the others are probably contributing depending upon what is exactly in them. I'd speculate at least some have high phosphate levels or sugars which are contributors as well.

Using some sort of product to combat cyano only treats the symptom and doesn't solve the problem and you'll just be battling the algae again in a few weeks.

My recommendation is to stop adding all that crap to your water. Use a good quality salt combined with say a monthly 10% water change, a quality calcium additive like a two part solution (ESV or Kent) or Tropic Marin's Biocalcium which also contain needed trace elements and you won't have these problems and your wallet will be a bit fuller.

Just because your LFS stocks it doesn't mean you need it. 99% of the crap on the market you DON'T need.

Don't add it unless you can test for it and can determine BY TESTING that you need it.

[ September 04, 2001: Message edited by: MickAv8r ]