mini Close Loop Pump Suggestions

[Tangy1]

I have 2 bulkheads drilled 6 inches below water line. I have an old Eheim canister running empty powering this closed loop. The GPH is pretty low, only around 130 GPH if that. I want to take the Eheim out and replace it with only a powerhead or pump to make create more room under the tank while simultaneously beefing up circulation.

What is the best pump could I install on this mini closed loop to boost output? Keep in mind that the pump would be external and only have a 1/2" input/output.

 

[FishGeeek]

I like Mag pumps. I think the MAG 2 is 1/2 and pumps out about 200 to 250 gph. Runs about $40. Do you know how much GPH you are looking for? You could put a bigger pump in there and but a 1/2" to 3/4" reducer.

HTH
Brian

 

[Anonymous]

hi.
You can alway make the bulkhead larger (redrill, etc.) if you need larger than 1/2 inch pump.

Reducing the pump input may cause air bubble (cavitation sp?), noise and early pump impeller failure, I heard.

bye -ck-

 

[Tangy1]

Thanks Fish & 7

I have an acrylic tank. I drilled these bulkhead holes myself. It was pretty easy to do on a flat surface.

How hard would it be to enlarge an existing hole without having a point for the center drill bit to sink into?

 

[Anonymous]

hi.
This should go to the DIY section...

Use clamps to clamp a piece of wood over the hole as pivot. Start drilling, and as soon as the hole saw make a nice annular channel on the acrylic, the wood is not needed. Continue drilling and you will get an acrylic ring out.

Make sure the wood is secure before the channel is formed, otherwise, you going to scratch the acrylic really bad!

Wear eye protection, etc., and other standard disclaimer

 

[Dan81]

Reducing the intake on a hydralic pump is sure diaster. You will make your pump strain and work hareder than ever was intended. It probably won't cause cavitation which is where fluid is put under such a high vacuum that the fluid actually boils and harms your pump. Not by heat but by lack of lubrication. Reducing your outake side should be fine. Say you have a 200gph pump no matter how much you squeeze down the output pipe it is still going to try to pump 200gph. This will create higher pressure just like a nozzle on the end of a garden hose as opposed to just an end of a garden hose. If all that makes since to you good luck!!!!!!!

 

[Tangy1]

7 thanks for that awesome DIY tip. I thought of also bonding a piece of scrap acyrllic to the inside of the tank, making sure the bond was right on the edge of the original hole. That way the center would remain steady until the drill bit went all the way to the other side. I just didnt want to risk this without knowing how much the glue would travel due to capillary action.

Following fish's suggestion I looked at the specs for MAG pumps. I saw that the MAG 5 had an 1/2" input/output. I really would like to use that much power! Currently I run Eheim 12/16mm tubing from the bulkheads to the canister (3 ft. each way)

Would the Eheim 12/16 mm tubing collapse due to the suction if I installed a Mag 5? Thanks for all the advice.

 

[Tangy1]

200-300 is about the circulation I'm looking for. I would have no problem using reducing fittings. However, I have always heard not to reduce on the input side of the pump. Can this be done without a problem?