I have the 72 with the built in overflow and have not had problems. I did remove the rubber 'sleve' that fits over the top where the water overflows though, don't remember why but has stayed that way. I did purchase their accessory kit and that has worked fine, easy to install. Not sure how much of a hassle it would have been trying to find the parts by myself.
i added a 4" piece of 1"pvc and a connector sleve( also one inch ) to raise the float assy up , to eliminate the waterflow noise, if you would like pictures i will send them to you, i also drilled out the strainerd to double their size before i filled the tank ( for better drainage) i have a new AGA 120 with overflows, i bought the kits..
Got an AGA 90 Reef Ready, and bought the whole kit and everything. For what it cost's, I'd get it again regardless of how I was planning on doing my plumbing. Everything is perfectly sized to fit (no fuss, no muss), and even if I were to create a custom drain/return setup, the parts/pieces would still be useful in construction. That is of course in addition to the fact that itself is a very nice overflow/return setup ;-)
I got the 180 RR but opted to not get the plumbing parts since I planned on having Dursos. Big mistake. The Durso mod (a slight variation) fit and works well, but the plumbing parts cost me over $100. Next time I would get the overflow kits and add/delete.
winger,
One thing I have found with the AGA overflows is that the "gap" between the "teeth" is a bit small. I took a dremel tool and widened them to have better flow. I also removed the sleeve that brad mentions for improved flow.
yznhmr,
that's an interesting idea.... might try that sometime
E, I don't know why it would cost you $100 for 2 durso type standpipes. You must have a very overpriced plumbing supply store.
i wish i woulnt have bought the accessory kit . it didnt work well made lots of noise as the float kept moving up and down so i too it off and built a durso for arounf 15 bucks.
I too dremeled the overflow out to improve the flow on my 90 gallon. I did it while it was up and running though. I use an oceanic oveflow kit. It took almost a week to quiet down but now its ok.
My LFS was the only place I could get the bulkheads and they raped me. Then when you throw in the parts from HD, (the first design w/ the elbow was too big to fit in the overflow so I went w/ the stockman design) Also, the bend-ible bead-type tubing for the returns were incredibly expensive from my LFS.
The AGA overflows work fine once you modify them by following the above mentioned suggestions. I had to open up the teeth on the overflow after I set my tank up. If you are smart you won't make the same mistake - do it before you set it up using a dremel or drill bit. As far as the overflow kit I bought one but most of the parts are up in my attic. I suggest using the Durso technique also mentioned above. Standard Rainbow lifegard bulkheads available here for one: http://www.petwarehouse.com
will fit the pre-drilled holes in your tank. The rest is just normal PVC plumbing parts and perhaps a black flex return nozel if you choose to go that route. Good luck with the new tank.
Got a 90 and built a durso(not for no 100 bucks either!!!!! probably around $35 after all of the ball valves installed.) No other modifications done and it works great. I use a mag 9 for return and a mag 7 on my Aqua-C EV 150 for skimming.
How efective is the Durso overflow as far as surface skimming is concerned. It looks like the surface sludge would overflow into the overflow area and stay on the water's surface in there. Is that the case?