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southfla

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Oh am I bummed. I've spent the last 6 weeks researching, buying and building my first reef tank. For some reason, I ended up using a 4" bed of "natures ocean" sand for my DSB. The tank is in the first week of the initial cycle, and now I'm getting vibes that I used the wrong sand, mostly due to it's larger particle size (.5-1.7mm).

Obviously, I'm concerned that the sand bed won't function properly, and won't allow for a suitable habitat for the critters and anaerobic functions. In a fantasy world, I'd start over, use the finer "sugar" sand/mud, and all would be great. But now, with the tank set up, the live rock added and the cycling ongoing, I don't know what to do.

Am I screwed? Should I take everything out and start over (AAGGHH)? Can the DSB work with the eventual addition of some IA or IPSF "mud" and critters? Appreciate any feedback, thanks all ...

ja

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Setup:
55 gallon w/corner overflow
20 gallon sump (12 g water)
70 lbs. MI LR from Jeff's
120 lbs. Nature's Ocean sand
(2) MaxiJet 1200 powerheads for tank current
Rio 2500 return to full length spray bar
100 g venturi skimmer/Rio 2500
WON titanium heater & grounding probe
(2) 96W 10,00K/actinic bulbs
 

MattM

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While the sand you used is not optimal for the interstitial fauna, I wouldn't call it a disaster. You can add some additional sand and mix it in before adding fish, just be prepared for it to get very cloudy from all the silt-sized grains.

Other things you might want to re-think are:

1) 2 x 96W is just above minimal lighting for this size tank. A 55 gallon is pretty deep, so be prepared to place all the higher light corals high up in the tank.

2) You've got two Rio 2500 pumps in there. The 2500 is one of the Rio models that can fail in a rather spectactular manner. The epoxy coating over the coil is too thin and if the pump sticks the coil can overheat and expand, the epoxy cracks, and saltwater hits the coil. Search for "Rio" here and I'm sure you can find several horror stories. Consider replacing them with Mag Drives.

Otherwise, a very nice setup!
 

HARRISON

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I agree with matt. I would add some of the sand you don't care much for to your sump and seperate a part to use as a refugium. Then I would add the sand you want to the top and you can mix it a bit or let the critters do it.
 

KenH

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Southfla,
Nature's Ocean is actually a very good sand bed material in my opinion. It has a nice assortment of particle sizes and is what I mostly used in my 225Gal. You can certainly add some sugar size sand to it if it makes you feel better, but be prepared for it to cloud your water for a while. DSB's add a new dimension to keeping reef tanks, but they are hardly a necessity for a successful reef tank.

--- Ken
 

southfla

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Wow, thanks for the replies all...

I feel a little better now
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...I think I'm gonna stick with the setup and see how things go. After the cycle, I'll load up with sand critters and hope for the best.

Thanks for the info and support, happy holidays to you all
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ja
 
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Anonymous

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IF you can get southdown in your area, why noit spend the $4 and just add it to your sand bed? It will deepen your sand bed, and you don't have to take any of the nature's ocean out. (unless you want.)

JMTC

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Bodine

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southfla
Like your set-up also, especcially the way you used the dorrs to stash the salinity swing arm and the test kit.

At the risk of sounding "alarmist", one thing I did on my first tank as you did caused problems. I also stashed the electrical equipment under cabinet. This lead to problems. Blew a ballast(water leak) and corrosion developed in the powerstrip.
I now place all electrical equipment and powerstrips as far away from the tank and mounted high on the wall as the cords will allow.GFCI also help.
Many others do as you do with no problems but.......
 

samurai9

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i remember reading an article by Richard Harker about sand particle size. He actually said larger particle size would result in better anaerobic bacteria function. I believe he also said you don't find sugar-sized sand in the majority of reefs, only in lagoons cause the strong currents hold the small grains in suspension until they reach an area where they can settle. Don't take my word for it though...search Aquarium Frontiers for that article.
 

samurai9

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here we are-excerpt from the article:

One argument made in favor of fine sand is that denitrification is enhanced by fine sand. It is true that denitrification takes place in oxic-anoxic zones (Tuominen et al. 1998). The water around large, loosely packed particles can become anoxic simply because the aerobic bacteria on the substrate consume the oxygen surrounding the material. Coarse substrate material may enhance denitrification rather than reduce it by allowing nitrate-enriched water to reach a higher proportion of denitrifying substrate.

My review of the scientific literature and examination of sediments on coral reefs throughout the Pacific and Caribbean has led me to conclude that unless reefkeepers maintain only lagoonal corals, they should avoid sugar fine substrate similar to that found in lagoons and instead use substrate that more closely resembles sediments found on fore reefs and reef flats. This means using a wide range of sand sizes ranging from 2 to 0.1 millimeters, with the majority of the material in the 1 millimeter and larger size range. Using CaribSea this means a mixture of Bermuda Pink and Reef Sand or Super Reef and Flamingo Pink. Using Nature’s Ocean products, combining Samoa Pink Gravel with Pacific Coral Gravel would create a realistic substrate for a small-polyped stony coral tank.
 

MattM

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Very few things in this hobby are an absolute, but I would have to say that Harker is in the minority in this viewpoint.

Read his stuff, then read the views of Rob Toonen and Ron Shimek and others in the library section. Then form your own opinion.
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crfish2001

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just wanted to say i like your setup too i see you are sort of a beginner like me.think you are starting of fine.learning alot from this board.
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Gatortailale1

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YOU ARE FINE. RELAX! If you want to do anything at all, you can add a bag or 2 of southdown, but DON'T remove anything you have already added. I have 3 different sized sand/ crushed coral in my 125 and everything been great for 15 months now. (CC on bottom and sugar sized on top.)

I strongly believe that you get better anaerobic bacteria function by having 2-3 differnet sizes of sandbed.

Nice setup, lighting a little low, but will work to start for first 6+ months as you learn cycle your reef and learn how to balance the water quality. You should have a ton of room in your canopy to upgrade down the road. Depending on your choice to add more sand, I would say you can add a few snails and hermits in a few more days if water levels all holding at 0 or close to 0 (nitrate/nitrite, amonia)
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rharker

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<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by MattM:
<strong>Very few things in this hobby are an absolute, but I would have to say that Harker is in the minority in this viewpoint.
</strong><hr></blockquote>

Rather than suggest that one read the various threads on sand (which simply regurgitate the same misconceptions over and over), why not go to the primary literature on coral reef sand beds.

When one reads the actual coral reef research, one finds that hobbyists are not recreating realistic habitats. Coral reefs do not have sugar fine sands. It gets blown away and piles up in lagoons.

If the hobbyist's goal is to maintain healthy sps corals, then sugar fine sand is impractical. With sugar fine sand, there is no way to create realistic water flow in the tank without creating a sand storm.

Richard Harker
 

fishpoo

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the sand will have some very fine particles anyway. creatures have a way of inhabiting what is there. Look at LR. It could be dry for days, maybe weeks and bristle worms and feather dusters still survive. you what to have some fun, put in a cup or two of fine live sand from a buddy.
 

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