damn float switches!!!!

[reefNewbie]

My stupid float switch got stuck and dumped all 5 gals. into my tank! good thing i didnt have any kalk in it, it was just pure RO/DI water. :evil: :evil: :evil:

 

[Ralphyhp]

I prefer 5 gal. of RO/DI water on my tank and not on my floor Tony. Now you dont have to add water in few days my friend. Ralphyhp.

 

[reefNewbie]

lol good point Mr. Optimist! :roll:

 

[LA-Lawman]

hey tony,

test, test. and test. then test again. you should be good then !!!

 

[damonbrodie]

Was the float switch in the main tank or in a sump? What caused it to jam?

bad float switches are my number one concern about the system I am about to setup. I plan to have the Typhoon III fill a 5 gallon bucket (with its supplied float switch) and then use another float switch to pump water from the bucket into the sump.

Damon

 

[reefNewbie]

the switch was in the sump...im not sure what caused it to jam, im thinking all of the scum and foam in the water...this is a new set up and the water has not cycled yet. On my old setup, i had the switch for atleast 2 months and never once did it stick. So im thinking its cause of the new (foamy) water.

 

[Anonymous]

You should use a pump that can barely beat evaporation, or throttle it by restricting the output so it cant flood the tank like that.

I use a dosing pump, but it can only put out 1.7 gallons per day, so every few days I have to put in about a gallon to make up for what the pump cant keep up with. No worries about flooding the tank either!

 

[dtiedke]

What pump do you use MegaDeTH?

Do you pump kalk through it?

Thanks,

Dave

 

[Ralphyhp]

You suck, Mr. sucker :lol: Thats the last time i reply something for this mamas boy. :wink:

 

[reefNewbie]

?????

 

[King Jason]

I use a Litermeter III. One of the best things I bought for new new tank.

 

[O P Ing]

?????

hi.
Don't worry, Mr. Sucker. Seems to me that Mr. Optimist was just having some fun :wink:

The problem with Litermeter is that it is very expensive. It is about $300 a pop. What kind of float switch do you use? IMO, pressured based float switch (e.g., SpectraPure's LLC) is more reliable that a mechanical float switch, but some people (do a search with google on RAMR about 3 years ago) need to use a strainer to keep thing off the pressure probe as well as float switch.

 

[Anonymous]

I use a kangaroo medial pump, paid 100 $ for it, with float switch.

I used to use a maxijet 500, that was hooked to a airline with a T valve, one was bypass bleed off, and the other went to the tank, it was set so it couldnt pump very fast into the tank, just enough to beat evaporation.

L8r mega

 

[lawndoctor]

Why not avoid the potential problems inherent in an electrical switch and try a Kent float valve?

 

[Anonymous]

It's still a float, and it'll fail, the electrical method with a limited top off speed is by far the safest

 

[Mogo]

I use a Kent float switch in my sump but I replace it every 6-8 months whether it needs it or not. Never had a problem. Yet. From the posts I read here, I'm gettin a little nervous.

 

[reefNewbie]

yea, i can handle 5 gallons of RO, but the problem lies when i have it mixed with kalk.

 

[lawndoctor]

I respect your opinion, but I think a simple inert mechanical valve is far more reliable than a system which depends on the collective operation of two or three electrical devices in a water environment. I haven't touched my float valve in five years, other than moving it to a different sump. In that same time, I've seen many threads just like this one.

 

[Crockett]

Two years on my kent float and counting. My saftey feature, should I need one, is that I have my RO/DI on a timer, and it only runs long enough to replace evaporated water. Less chance for error, and very little waste water.

 

[Mogo]

Lawndoc-
5 years with a Kent float? I'm not (as) nervous now. After all the technology has worked perfect in my toilets for 20 years. :lol: