H2O top-off system
- Thread starter tim000
- Start date
Tim, if you can find specs for it, the NURCE is actually very simple and uses a siphon-method. If built correctly, it's practically impossible for the thing to fail until you run out of top-off water in the reservoir.
I'm certain someone with any DIY skills can build a NURCE.
I'm certain someone with any DIY skills can build a NURCE.
Yes, you can beat it. Simply put, any dosing system assumes that your evaporation rate is constant. Mine varies tremendously based on ambient air temp because my cooling fans are run via a temp controller. When the ambient temp goes up, the fans run more and there is more evaporation.
You can't beat a float switch, IMO for top off. Keeps salinity in check, and is effortless.
Here is some good info on top off solutions. I copied it from a previous reply I made to a post about top off ideas. You can read the whole thread here:
Top Off scenarios
This is a summary of the different top off scenarios and their pros and cons:
- Drip type- a fixed drip from a resevoir that is above the tank (or the sump) is used to replace water loss. You estimate the rate of evaporation and set the drip rate accordingly. This type is simple, cheap but harder to set up initially. There are some problems with the drip line clogging especially if you plan on dosing kalkwasser with the top off water.
- Dosing pump- This is similar to the drip type in that you must estimate the evaporation loss and the program a dosing pump (you can get these for anywhere from $60-200) to "dose" freshwater in the same rate as the evaporation loss. These are often less troublesome than the drip method especially if you are dosing kalkwasser, but is more costly. The other benefit is that since it is a pump, you can put the resevoir anywhere, even under the tank out of site.
- Vacuum type (siphon type)- A closed container is placed higher than the tank (or sump) and a bit of tubing is run from the container to the tank (or sump) and the open end of the tubing is placed at the desired water level. When the water level drops due to evaporation, air is sucked into the container which displaces the water which then flows into the tank to raise the water level. These can be problematic, and are not the most maintenance free.
- Float switch connected to a resevoir- in this scenario a flow switch senses when the water level has dropped and kicks on a pump in a resevoir of fresh water which pumps water to raise the level. This is what I use. It is not the most expensive, but failsafe, and a good compromise between being maintenance free, safe and cost effective. If my float switch sticks, only a limited volume of fresh water will be pumped in (limited by the resevoir) and I simply have to keep the resevoir full.
- Float valve connected to a resevoir- possibly the simplest solution. A float valve like the one in your toilet allows water to flow gravity-fed from another resevoir which is higher than your tank (or sump). Since the float valve is often large and bulky, most people put it in a sump under the tank where it is not visible.
- Float-switch connected to RO unit.- This is one of the most maintenance-free options. In this case a float switch actuates a solenoid or a special valve on your RO unit that causes it to kick on when the water level in your tank drops. Since it is connected to your RO unit, you do not have to manually add water to any container or resevoir as is required by the previous options. This option is somewhat costly, and has the added problem that if the float switch sticks then the RO unit will run continuously until you notice and shut it off. What that means is that it can overflow your tank and also that the salinity will continue to drop until you cut the water off. If you don't catch it in time you can kill everything in your tank.
- Float switch connected to RO unit plumbed through metering device (e.g. LiterMeter) This is the best solution but also the most costly. In this case a float switch actuates a solenoid or a special valve on your RO unit that causes it to kick on when the water level in your tank drops. There is a metering device which only allows a set amount of water to flow in a given day limiting the overflow risk and the salinity risk of the previous option.
One of the guys in our lab is quite handy with tools.
He took a standard toilet valve system and changed out the parts to make it rust-proof. Then he hooked it up to a 10 gallon carbouy. It works the same as the toilet reservoir when you flush.
Only cost $14.
But it does have the big black float in the sump.
He took a standard toilet valve system and changed out the parts to make it rust-proof. Then he hooked it up to a 10 gallon carbouy. It works the same as the toilet reservoir when you flush.
Only cost $14.
But it does have the big black float in the sump.
I really like the dosing pump and float switch system. I use a Liter meter controlled by a Sipedon float switch. I use the pressure switch as a saftey just in case. Using a powerhead and a float switch is asking for trouble, they just pump way too much water too fast.
I use the 30.00 solenoid contolled water hose timer below to top-off my RO\DI drum. It works very well, in fact I know a guy who uses it to top off his tank.
I use the 30.00 solenoid contolled water hose timer below to top-off my RO\DI drum. It works very well, in fact I know a guy who uses it to top off his tank.
Attachments
I use a float switch and a powerhead. I reduce the tubing coming off the powerhead down to airline size, and then use a plastic needle valve to control the drip rate. I am very happy with the system.
I am also planning on adding a second float switch to turn off the powerhead if the water level in the sump gets too high.
I am also planning on adding a second float switch to turn off the powerhead if the water level in the sump gets too high.
I have kind of a 2 stage top-off system...
there is a 5 gallon bucket which has Kent Marine's Float valve kit installed -- this gives me a bucket which is always full of RO/DI water...
I also have a float valve in the sump of my tank which has a sealed mercury switch siliconed onto the top... when the water level drops, it will turn on a 201 powerhead which pumps water VERY SLOWLY into the sump, I have this pump tube (made from RO/DI tubing) go up pretty high and then splits, one goes back down to the tank, the other goes very high to assure that a SIPHON does not develop between the bucket and the sump... I end up pumping water VERY SLOWLY this way, and also there are only about 4 gallons MAX available to the 201 powerhead...
works well for me, originally designed so I wouldn't have to DRILL my sump tank!!! anyway...
there is a 5 gallon bucket which has Kent Marine's Float valve kit installed -- this gives me a bucket which is always full of RO/DI water...
I also have a float valve in the sump of my tank which has a sealed mercury switch siliconed onto the top... when the water level drops, it will turn on a 201 powerhead which pumps water VERY SLOWLY into the sump, I have this pump tube (made from RO/DI tubing) go up pretty high and then splits, one goes back down to the tank, the other goes very high to assure that a SIPHON does not develop between the bucket and the sump... I end up pumping water VERY SLOWLY this way, and also there are only about 4 gallons MAX available to the 201 powerhead...
works well for me, originally designed so I wouldn't have to DRILL my sump tank!!! anyway...
I use a 5 gallon kerosene container. They have a handle on top and a ~3" screw top and they are relatively clear. I have a microjet powerhead near the bottom connected to rigid tubing which exits through a hole in the screw top. Wiring for the powerhead goes through another hole I had to drill and seal. I have flex tubing going from the hard tubing to the sump. The powerhead is hooked to a float switch in the sump. This works as my kalk doser as well so I wanted it fairly airtight. You could easily get by with a larger open container if you're just worried about evaporation. Mine will run for about five days.
hey shawn, oh yea my coral is doing great! the kenya tree still has something up his ass but the maxima clam is partying like its 1999. I just need to figure this top off thing out before I come home for X-mas break in 10 days. call me or go online!
PS- when I come home lets go to the tropaquarium
PS- when I come home lets go to the tropaquarium
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