Since I installed new lighting, 4x95 watt pc, 2 of which are 10,000k and the other two are actinic blue, I have noticed brown algea growth all over my beautifull live rock. I do not want this, and I was thinking of replacing the 2 10,000k 95 watt lights for 2 10,000k 55 watts. Do you think this will solve the brown algea growth problem?
Brown algea over growth
- Thread starter mountainbiker619
- Start date
what kind of water do you use?
I mean RO, DI, or staight tap?
I don't think it's the spectrum, I think it's something in the water.
After time(the dreaded wait and see answer), it may clear up.
Most of the time I've seen a brown algea, it's diatoms feeding off silica's in the water. Now, if you use RO or DI the silica's are minimal, and should clear up quick.
Anytime I've changed lights in any way, something happens like that.
I mean RO, DI, or staight tap?
I don't think it's the spectrum, I think it's something in the water.
After time(the dreaded wait and see answer), it may clear up.
Most of the time I've seen a brown algea, it's diatoms feeding off silica's in the water. Now, if you use RO or DI the silica's are minimal, and should clear up quick.
Anytime I've changed lights in any way, something happens like that.
I use a 5 stage R/O unit. Water temp is right around 80f. I am still kinda up in the air about using a UV, since it will also kill the good things needed, along with the bad guys. I do 5 percent water changes every weekend, due to fish population. Reason why I asked if I should go to a lower light wattage, is due to the heat the 4x95's put off, thinking that maybe the heat is the cause to the brown algea.
ok..water test results are great. I still think it is the new lighting, so since it is a live rock, fish only tank, I have turned off the 10,000k and cleaned off the brown algae from the sides of the glass, and I will monitor to see if it continues to grow.
How old is the tank, and have you checked for phosphates in the water, If not try checking for that too. But the reason, i ask about how long the tank has been set up is a new tank takes about six months to get to it full stablity. After that if the water condition is kept up then the brown aglae will go away. Also how long are the lights on, and how high are they from the top of the water. 
The tank has been up and running for around 3 months. I will purchase a phosphate test kit this weekend. Lights are about 5 inches from the glass top. Lights are on atleast a average of 7 hours a day. This problem started once I installed the new lighting system. Below are my tank specs:
100 gal glass
3 inch live sand bed
150 lbs live rock
Berlin Turbo Skimmer
Amiracle SL-50 hang-on wet/dry
Eheim 2229 Wet/Dry Canister Filters
R/O water
Chemicals used:
ESV B-Ionic Calcium buffer system
100 gal glass
3 inch live sand bed
150 lbs live rock
Berlin Turbo Skimmer
Amiracle SL-50 hang-on wet/dry
Eheim 2229 Wet/Dry Canister Filters
R/O water
Chemicals used:
ESV B-Ionic Calcium buffer system
Hello Mountian, well it looks like your tank has 3 more months before it stables to it's fullest. Try testing for phosphates, do you have a hood on your system. Sometimes that will cause over heating, and yes can cause a bloom of Algea in the tank. So anyways if there is a high amount of phosphates get a phosphate sponge, add it to your filter system. You'll add the frist sponge for 24 hrs then the 2nd for 48 hrs i beleive, well it will tell you on the Directions okay. Good Luck.
Hi Ya,
I recomend you invest in Julian Sprungs book on algae. It is a reference guide. Brown algae uses numerous methods for its energy/food source. If it is the hair strain it will trap detritus like green algae does. If it isnt' it is using nitrates and phospates in the water. I keep my tank between 76-78 degrees. I had a small bloom when i set it up. I used 50lbs of uncured LR and 55lbs of cured. it was nuts for about a week. I did no water changes. i let it ride out.
Pros and cons of water changes during a bloom.
Pros. you drop your nitrates and are able to siphon detritus and muck.
Cons. you continue to feed the algae the high mineral contents of FRESHLY mixed Salt water. Algae needs all of the goodies that coral and other inverts need.
I would let it ride a week. reduce the photoperiod a little. watch ur feeding. and watch for invert death (snails, small anenomes, and others) Astrea and turbo snails die with brown algae blooms. They cant handle the enzyme the algae gives off.
Mine took a week. I ran the skimmer the whole time and only ran my halides. I continued with calcium and Alk additions. Now I am good. I hope this helps.
Good Luck
I recomend you invest in Julian Sprungs book on algae. It is a reference guide. Brown algae uses numerous methods for its energy/food source. If it is the hair strain it will trap detritus like green algae does. If it isnt' it is using nitrates and phospates in the water. I keep my tank between 76-78 degrees. I had a small bloom when i set it up. I used 50lbs of uncured LR and 55lbs of cured. it was nuts for about a week. I did no water changes. i let it ride out.
Pros and cons of water changes during a bloom.
Pros. you drop your nitrates and are able to siphon detritus and muck.
Cons. you continue to feed the algae the high mineral contents of FRESHLY mixed Salt water. Algae needs all of the goodies that coral and other inverts need.
I would let it ride a week. reduce the photoperiod a little. watch ur feeding. and watch for invert death (snails, small anenomes, and others) Astrea and turbo snails die with brown algae blooms. They cant handle the enzyme the algae gives off.
Mine took a week. I ran the skimmer the whole time and only ran my halides. I continued with calcium and Alk additions. Now I am good. I hope this helps.
Good Luck
one more thing. If your nitrates are really high purchase a small eheim canister filter and load it full of a nitrate sponge. rig it with valves so you can slow the flow. turn the outlet down to almost nothing. and you have just created a nitrate reductor. Do not change the media unless it is cloged completely. You have created an anerobic environment. I have done this for years with good results. I had a 80gallon with a 60ppm nitrated level I added the filter. dropped to 10ppm in 5 days. I didn't have to change the media for 2yrs.
i hope this helps
i hope this helps
O.K. ......let's examine this. You have 384 watts over a FOWLR tank. Your primary producers are algae....you have no corals to utilize this light. The temp alone will not grow algae. NOTHING by itself will grow algae in a tank. It is a cooperative effect between light and nutrients. Low nutrients, high light, little or no algae growth. Low light, high nutrients, same thing. You have a fish only system, correct? Now you have bright lights. High light and high nutrients. But "no" you say. "i have tested my parameters and all look fine." BUT. Keep in mind that without that algae in there....your tests would show higher readings. The nutrients are testing low because they are bound in the algae. Do you want this to be a reef tank? If not....don't worry too much about the sand critters. Note I said too much...you still want some in there. If it is to be a FO...then put on a UV sterilizer. Put Caulerpa in the tankand let if grow if it will. Caulerpa prolifera will be best for a FO. It will utilize the nutrients too. Also, keep in mind that algae uses for food things you can not test for as well, not just NO2 and NO3. I would turn on only two of the lights, one on each side. Turn the others on if you put caulerpa in there. Good luck.
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