How many colors will my tank turn???

[dtiedke]

OK...this is my first time with a SW tank (FOWLR), and I have been reading this board (and many others) for a few months now. A little about my setup:

135g Oceanic glass (not RR)
no sump...(working on putting one together)
Mixed bed (crushed coral and sand 5" deep) (first mistake...LFS....sigh...)
110# Live Rock
Magnum 350 (second mistake....@!#$@# LFS!!!)
2) 250w Iwaski 6500k MH
4) 95w VHO Actinic
NH=0, NO2=0, NO3=3-5ppm, KH=6, Phosphate=ZIP (possible bad test kit)
Salinity=1.022, PH-8.2

OK...so I started this tank a few months ago with little knowledge and have made a few mistakes along the way. Quickly realized that I needed to slow down and do much more research before any more large purchases. So I wait, and wait, and wait....

From what I have read, the brown dusting on everything was normal (diatoms) and would go away after a couple of months on a new tank. Sure enough, 6 weeks in and they disappeared!

Then I read that the read/brown slimy algae would go away as well at around 8-10 weeks, but that has not happened yet. Then I read that bubbles coming from your sand bed is a good thing, that it indicates denitrification is occurring....but I have MASSIVE amounts of bubbles forming on the entire bed, and even sticking to the rock, glass, powerheads etc....

Now during the last few weeks, I have been having a ton of green algae growing on everything. So much algae that I have to completely disassemble the two Berlin Classic skimmers (rated at 90 gal each) for a scrub down as they stop skimming on the 6th day due to the algae build-up inside (I know these skimmers suck, but that was what the LFS sold me as "the best out there"...third strike against them)....Anyway I digress...

So without having a reliable source for information on what is normal in a new tank, I have this question....How many colors will my tank turn before it settles down???? I have been trying to be patient, but the brown was hard to look at, the red/brown slime was kind of gross but it didn't last too long, but this green (not hair-like just short, green carpet-like) is really sticking around and has me worried. It has been 4 weeks now, and it doesn't seem to be slowing down.

I was told it is due to over feeding, yet I feel I am feeding a minimum to my fish (one cube of brine or mysis, or formula 1, or formula 2, per day for my Yellow Tang, Lawnmower Blennie, 2 Percula clowns, 2 Neon Velvet Damsels, and a Marine Betta Comet. I also have 2 Cleaner Shrimp, 10 Turbo Snails, 50 Hermits (red and blue legged).

I was told that it is Phosphates, but I bought a test and cannot detect any in either the tank's water or the tap (RO/DI is on my list of things to get when the wife finally lets me have my credit cards back...LOL)... :roll:

Any help would be much appreciated!!!!

 

[mountainbiker619]

I feel ya..I am in the brown algae stage as we speek. All my beautifull live rock is a UGLY brown

And like you, all my water test result are perfect..even Phosphate.

 

[ReefLion]

The crushed coral has to go. Your bubbles are almost certainly not denitrification, but instead oxygen from algae photosynthesizing at a rapid pace (it's all over your tank). Your NO3 reading is a bit low, but it's probably being consumed by the algae as it's produced.

Slowing down was the right thing. Thanks for taking the time to read, read, read. The basics on overcoming algae are:

- RO/DI for top-off
- deep sand bad with proper grain size and stocking
- adequate live rock
- moderate fish load and feeding
- good skimmer
- good water movement
- decent clean-up crew (opinions vary on hermits but I like little ones)
- the absence of "nitrate factory" filtration devices such as cannister filters or wet/dry filters

If you have all these factors, chances are you do not have a significant algae problem after a few early months. There are exceptions to these general trends in both directions, but following those guidelines help the vast majority of folks stay significantly algae-free.

Tim

 

[dtiedke]

OK...so I am willing to rip out the substrate. I have looked, but have not been able to find Southdown on the west coast here. However, there are many places around here to get "beach sand" which is sand from the beach around here (I am assuming they get it from the many dunes areas up and down the coast). I have a friend who removed his crushed coral bed, and used the "beach sand" sold locally here, and he now has large black (very black!) spots developing in his DSB. Looks like some kind of fungus or bacterial growth.....I worry about that...

What would you reccomend for the replacement of the substrate?

Thanks,

Dave

 

[mountainbiker619]

Dave,

Go to this link http://www.garf.org/ then go to HOW TO PAGES
in left colum. There you will see a colum about ALGAE CONTROL.
Maybe helpfull.

David

 

[beerbaron]

im a big fan of adding liverock slowly for this reason. it takes longer, and you r cycle doesnt end till the last piece cycles, but it remains a less dramatic cycle. that many fish is to much IMO for this young of a tank. i ony had two fish in my 75 for almost 9 months. the more you take your time in the begining the healthier and more diverse your live rock will be. take your time, get a magnifying glass and enjoy the live rock. i would even onder getting a couple of those fish outa there for a small while(esp. if the fish store will hold them for a little. id be willing to bet that those are your 2 main problems; to many fish and to much liverock that is still going through its cycle.
HTH
BB

 

[mountainbiker619]

I have one established reef tank that has been up for a year now. My other reef tank is only a few months old, and is currently going through the diatom stage. When I do a water change in the established aquarium, would it be benificial to place that water into my new tank?

David

 

[Michelle50]

I too had a nice diatom bloom not too long after my tank was setup. But, once I began using RO/DI water for top offs and wc, things cleared up. Now, if I could just get rid of my damn hair algea that easy. :?