It's been my experience that slime algae, red or green is easy to discern. It ususally manifests itself withn the first few months of set-up and either clings to LR or spreads across the substrate. Comes in red and green sometimes vibrant green/torquoise. The best non-invasive/destructive removal method is to siphon it out using airhose (small flow rate lets you work longer with less water being drawn off.
Dinosflagellates on the other hand seem to appear later/after slime algaes. In the systems I've run, they seem to attach to macro algae, or sometimes on LR, but rarely on the substrate. The appearance is like a sheet of brownish/green snot. It's like the slime you buy at the kids store, but semi-transparent. It has a gelatinous texture, and traps nitrogen/oxygen as it is produced. Siphoning again is a good recourse.
There is one remedy that crushed a dino bloom in one of my mini-reefs. It's called "Red Slime Remover" an orange powder that comes in a little plastic bottle about three inches tall. I used about a third of the recommended dosage and literally overight, the dinos were dissolving. I cannot however comment on collateral effects. I think it is some form of antibiotic -which has its own implications on the LR/microfauna/meiofauna. It may also effect calcification and result in slower coralline growth, but that's just a SWAG. :roll:
Bottom line, siphon out what you can. Raising the pH has been recommended in Reef Aquariums Vol I (Sprung/Delbeek) It didn't work for me. The RSR product is a pretty good fx for the risk, but go much lower than recommended dosage. Aggresive water changes after the dinos start to dissolve is a good idea. The blacking out the tank idea only removes the energy source, and doesn't fix the nutrient problem. Dissolving organics may boost nutrients, and give you fits when you turn the lights back on :x