finally, do i have to feed clams?
- Thread starter Eduardo Cavalcanti
- Start date
Eduardo Cavalcanti":3eeei2ji said:
I didn't buy ANY of these clams after I had the 500 gallon aquarium. The 500 was a result of not wanting to give up the clams
They all started as small clams in 75, 90 and 120 gallon reef aquariums. The big T. gigas clam was between 3-4 inches when I first got it. I never heard of a Tridacnid clam eating yeast in the ocean, so I wouldn't put in any of my aquariums.
I don't know what's in Koralvit, which is why I wouldn't put it in any of my aquariums as well.
Greg
GSchiemer":6l40g6uj said:
Fantastic photos! Good Lord, in it's own 60gal and it looks like it is touching the front and back. Are you sure it hasn't outgrown the 60gal?
Do you do anything to try to feed the clownfish fry and is it possible that feeding might be helping the clam?
my reef is about 2 years old is that seasoned enough to not feed the clams? i have a 90 reef with 5 fish 1 purple tank 1 flame angel 1 dragonette 1 red lip algea blenny and 1 arch eye hawk fish..is this sufficent? if not what do they eat? i have had 2 clams for 8mo's or so now both have noticible growth on their shells, so i think their doing fine...im not really worried but i would love to rearange the tank for optimum clam happiness i dont care about the corals...any tips on placement, current, or spectrum of lighting would be very helpfull.
Bucolic Buffalo":2hap7xja said:
It has outgrown the 60. In order to get it out I have empty the tank, remove the plumbing, and slide the tank out of its stand. I haven't got the energy to do that right now
One day after I retire I'll make the effort to raise the clownfish fry. Unfortunately now they just wind up as food for the main aquarium.
Greg
Will C":9a73rm0p said:
I'm a great beleiver, especially in regard to reef aquariums, that if it's not broken, don't fix it. If the clams are thriving, leave well enough alone. You don't want to start adding liquid foods and potentially throw off the balance of nutrients in the aquarium.
Greg Schiemer
When I respond or reply to a thread, I base my comments on research material that I have read and things that I have tried and worked in my application. I think we would all agree that our aquariums are not all equal as far as using the same additives, foods, lights, etc etc. It would be nice if there was a sure receipe that all could use with success.
Regarding the question about "yeast base food" I can only quote Daniel Knop in his book, "Giant Clams" page 164.
It is better to feed the Tridacnidae on food based on yeast. Yeast consists of spherical or ellipsoid fungi with a fast proliferation rate and a high contents of vitamins and protein.
You draw your own conclusions. I think that this subject is like the one I see from time to time regarding different lighting application. Everyone has their own opinion. Certainly nothing wrong with that. :roll:
Barry
Regarding the question about "yeast base food" I can only quote Daniel Knop in his book, "Giant Clams" page 164.
It is better to feed the Tridacnidae on food based on yeast. Yeast consists of spherical or ellipsoid fungi with a fast proliferation rate and a high contents of vitamins and protein.
You draw your own conclusions. I think that this subject is like the one I see from time to time regarding different lighting application. Everyone has their own opinion.
Certainly nothing wrong with that. :roll: Barry
barry, would you know the species of fungii that properly fit the size for tridacnas to eat them? i know that clams pic food in the size of 5nm till 20nm. is the fungii of yeast in this range? what species of them are used in baking yeast ?
Eduardo,
That would be a good question for Daniel. Will put that on my list of question to him
As far as size, from the research material that I have read show the ideal size is 10-15. Anything less would not have nutritional value and larger would be hard to digest or filter through their gills.
Barry
That would be a good question for Daniel. Will put that on my list of question to him
As far as size, from the research material that I have read show the ideal size is 10-15. Anything less would not have nutritional value and larger would be hard to digest or filter through their gills.
Barry
Hey Greg,
did u feature your tank building in Marine and fish aquarium Annual..... I remember seeing those infamous steel gerters for the tank supports.
if so. Do you have alink to their website... I own a few of the magazines but they got damaged during a move.... i would like to get a few back issues....
--- AWESOME tank man-----
did u feature your tank building in Marine and fish aquarium Annual..... I remember seeing those infamous steel gerters for the tank supports.
if so. Do you have alink to their website... I own a few of the magazines but they got damaged during a move.... i would like to get a few back issues....
--- AWESOME tank man-----
LA-Lawman":b88vwrab said:
It was in one of the annual issues, but that was a number of years ago. The annual issues aren't online as far as I know. The related Aquarium Frontiers articles are still online. An index can be found at http://reefs.org/library/aquarium_frontiers/
Greg Schiemer
Greg,
A very impressive tank. I bet that your gigas will not stop growing before it out grows the width of most tanks, what size are you going to move it to? I have grown Derasas in the past from 1.5 inches to well over a foot without feeding it, but I was never able to grow Maximas or Croceas from a small size until I fed them, but I have never had a tank of the magnitude of 500 gallons. I have no doubt that, in a system as large and established as yours, there is food for the clams without the addition of yeast or other foods. But what about the rest of us, Eduardo who asked the original question
Eduardo Cavalcanti
has a nano. Do you think that he would be better off not feeding his young crocea? I would think that in a nano with possibly less that optimal light it would be prudent to feed his crocea.
A very impressive tank. I bet that your gigas will not stop growing before it out grows the width of most tanks, what size are you going to move it to? I have grown Derasas in the past from 1.5 inches to well over a foot without feeding it, but I was never able to grow Maximas or Croceas from a small size until I fed them, but I have never had a tank of the magnitude of 500 gallons. I have no doubt that, in a system as large and established as yours, there is food for the clams without the addition of yeast or other foods. But what about the rest of us, Eduardo who asked the original question
Eduardo Cavalcanti
has a nano. Do you think that he would be better off not feeding his young crocea? I would think that in a nano with possibly less that optimal light it would be prudent to feed his crocea.
Am I the only one that is not seeing Greg's pics? They are not showing up and no link to your site either.
I have begun feeding my 18 month old reef Instant algae and I have noticed an immediate difference in all my filter feeders even my sun polyps and flower pots!
I have a Squamosa clam that is bleaching (7 in.) and I take it out every other day for direct feeding. It is showing signs of recovery, but has a long way to go. The other day I feed the tank. I have not had any increase in nitrates or any negative effects from this feeding schedule. I am beginning my third week of this regimen. My nitrares have actually gone from 10 to 0 during this time without any water change!
I have begun feeding my 18 month old reef Instant algae and I have noticed an immediate difference in all my filter feeders even my sun polyps and flower pots!
I have a Squamosa clam that is bleaching (7 in.) and I take it out every other day for direct feeding. It is showing signs of recovery, but has a long way to go. The other day I feed the tank. I have not had any increase in nitrates or any negative effects from this feeding schedule. I am beginning my third week of this regimen. My nitrares have actually gone from 10 to 0 during this time without any water change!
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