First Test fire of my light system 4-400w 14k Hamiltons

[steve F]

Hi Everyone,

Here are a few pics of new light system. The light can swing 90 deg out of the way so I can clean or get to the tank.

Is the 8" height above the tank a good spot??

I left the lights on for 30 mins with no fans and the acrylic did not even get warm


Steve
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Tippmann

 

[steve F]

A pic of the pivoting lights
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bankrupt airlines

 

[usafresq1]

8O 8O 8O 8O 8O :!: :!: :!: :!: :!:
(jealous!!!!) :wink:

 

[GSchiemer]

What are all the bulkheads along the back for?

 

[LA-Lawman]

I would imagine closed loop inlets????

 

[steve F]

Yes they are for 2 criss crossing closed loops. 1 intake in the each side going to to 2 returns on the other. Changing every 2 mins or so by motorized ball valves.

I will have about 6 ports coming off of each return with pvc. So I will have 24 port or so changing from 12 to the other 12. No powerhead in this tank.

The hard part will be hiding all the ports with LR.


WOW my fish room is a tanning salon now 8O 8O 8O

Steve
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[Kendall]

Great idea with the pivotting lights! I would definately put fans in there to keep the top of the tank cool. The heat will weaken the acrylic you may risk a catastrofic failure.

Keep the picks coming!

 

[steve F]

Hi,

I will definitely be using fans on my system. Since I have an open lighting system, I will probably just get a normal 10 or 12 " fan and blow it acrossed the top.

I also have decided to change the exhaust fan to a air exchanger. I'll post pics of that in a fw weeks

Steve
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[Anonymous]

I gonna have to steal the pivoting lights idea from on the new 300 I'm planning. That's a great idea! How about a close-up of the hinged area!

Do you plan on having a chiller for this tank? With an open top and fans, will that be enough to keep the temp down? I'm kinda thinking yes, but I no experience with 400's.

Do you have any plans for humidity control in yer fish room?

Louey

 

[steve F]

Hi Louey,

Yes I will be putting in a air exchanger in the room to control humidity and temp.

Here is a link to the air exchanger unit AE500 I will be purchasing.

http://www.jehmco.com/PRODUCTS_/HARDWAR ... anger.html



I will not have a chiller on this system at the moment, total system volume will be 500g.

Here is a pic of the hinge. It galvinized, but im sure it will rust after awhile. The lag bolts in the wall are 4" length and 3/8" around. The one in the other end are 4 in --- around 1/4". The 2 in the top piece are 1/4" x 6".

Go right ahead and use it in you plans. I always hated on my 150g that the light were in the way and I didnt not have enough height in the room to use the pulley system ive seen people on here do.

Steve
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BMW 503

 

[Anonymous]

That heat exchanger looks like it will be perfect for your application. I live in florida, so recovering heat does not come into play. I wonder if I could control the humidity in my fishroom with a simple bathroom type exhaust fan mounted directly over the tank, ducted into the attic, and controled by a humidistat. My fishroom has southern exposure so it is a little warmer than other areas of the house. So the humidty and temperature will have to be delt with. Maybe I'll just add another AC duct in the room for the temperate, then come up with something for humidity. I am determined not to add a chiller if at all possible. I just don't want that added cost to my power bill! Seems like it would be very expensive.

Any ideas?

Thanks for the close up Steve! :wink:

 

[steve F]

Yes I am the same way on the chiller.

I did put an exhaust fan in, but I will be changing that out bacause of possible problems with sucking that much air out with no where to get in from in the house. It could have possibly suck the exhaust fumes from the water heater or furnace stack and right into the basement.

I didnt want to spend another $800 but if im going to have the tank 20+ years in will be money well spent.

Here is a pic of the exhaust fan I just put up and the same one that is coming right back down

But for you, since cold air is not an issue, my first Idea (and yours) of the exhaust fan will do wonder for the humidity. Just make sure you have an inlet to get first air coming into your home.

Only thing is the summer months were you are its already humid out, hmmm, Il have to think on that one.

Let me know if I can be of anymore help

Steve
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[King Jason]

Steve,

How come the closed loop inlets/outlets are so low on the tank? What are your plans?

 

[LA-Lawman]

you might want to cover those hinges with silicone or another type sealant. the salt in the air will work theri magic on them?


just an idea


a thing covering of silicone would do the trick...

-ben

 

[steve F]

LA--yes I will ahve to cover up the metal with something or rust here it comes.

Jason as for the 2 closed loops here is a pic (from Jeef hoods web page of what mind will look like)

Steve
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[LA-Lawman]

God d***,

That there is a darn toot'in idear?

I likes Thats much!!!

( today is bad spelling/grammar Day)

I am gonna have to do that on my next setup.... Are you gonna cure your own rock?

and how much are you gonna use?

 

[steve F]

Hi Ben,

Yes it will be very nice no powerheads. And it will switch back and forth with 1 motorized ball valve on each loop with probably 2 min intervals.

I will be using 500 Lbs of LR. I have a friend in IL that can get it extremely cheap(wholesale) and have to work out the details, but this guy has like 3000g of tanks in his basement and is ordering 1500 Lbs for him and 500 for me and said if he has room would cure it for me.

But I would like to fine a 100 lbs or more from people tearing down there tanks if I can.

Steve
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BMW F650CS

 

[Anonymous]

SteveF said:

Just make sure you have an inlet to get first air coming into your home.

hmmm....so, with the exhaust fan sucking air out of the room, an equal volume of air needs to be added back into the house??? Not sure about how to do this, especially during the summer months when that last thing I would want to do is add hot, outside air, into my house. That defeats the purpose of AC! Any ideas?

Louey

 

[steve F]

Yes that is why Im going the air exchanger route.

The exchanger will work to remove the humidity even in the summer, just bring in AC air from your central air unit(I assume you have in Florida, LOL)

Or you will have to have your AC on constantly or get a smaller AC unit just for the room.

Steve
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[Jeff Hood]

Steve, I really like your light bar. Perfect solution to your head room problem. Lights look great. Similar to my radiums. Do they make those hinges in stainless steel? It is amazing the amount of salt that gets into the air in a room like that. You will have salt creep and residue on all your fans, intakes to vents etc... Every little bubble that pops at the surface in your tank and sumps will put a little salt into the air. I thought that all the salt would stay in the tank and only evaporation would be a problem but I have found that not to be entirely true. My filters to my split A/C unit gets filled with salt crystals. Its 6 feet from any source of salt water and the air in the room is dry. I run a 1500 BTU A/C unit and a dehumidifier constantly. With you doing an air exchanger, It will help some but it will need to be cleaned and rinsed of salt residue so plan on being able to take it down and clean it once a year or so.

Salt will get on everything!

Let me know how your heat exchanger works out. If yours works well and controlls the humidity well then I may add one to my room to cut down on the amount of freon I have to pump around.



Jeff