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Anonymous

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I have been battling hair algae for a few months now. I remove it and 2 weeks later it is back and even more.

Phosphates test for 0. Lights are only 6 months old. Did frequent water changes. Did most if not all of the basic things to stop it.

I have a RO only filter. I changed my RO membrane and filters and still have it bad.

I just got a TDS meter.

Normal water = 350
RO = 35

I just ordered a 4 stage RO/DI. Hopefully that will help.
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Anonymous

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Do you have fish or invert in the tank that you feed periodically? If you do, that maybe why you have this hairalgae even when the parameter is fine.

Think of it like a successful person with a nice pay check (food for feeding) who drive around in a Porsch and have a nice house (hair algae), but have not much money (low nutrient water) in the bank saving account.
 
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Anonymous

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It is a invert and a few fish tank. I feed a 1/4 cube of frozen shrimp every other day.

The "not much money in the bank account is me, but I dont have a porsche or a nice house either. (One day maybe when I win the lotto but I think I might have to play lotto first)
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Anonymous

Guest
The "not much money in the bank account is me, but I dont have a porsche or a nice house either. ...
That would be an excellent environment for your coral. Good water params, and low nutrient input! :)

Cut down on the feeding a bit (maybe a bad thing to recommand since I have no idea what fishes do you have...), and see if that combines with hair algae removal will help the situation a bit.
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
I just got my TDS meter yesterday. Water in 55ppm.

water out of my 4 stage RO/DI, 45

I don't think it's my filter. I think it's my pressure. I don't think I have enough pressure to permeate my membrane. My ro waste water is 46ppm. So the pre filters are doing someting,but then the RO membrane isn't doing squat. I may try a permeate pump before I buy another membrane.

What do you all think?

B
 
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Anonymous

Guest
No Bingo. Permeate pump will not solve your problem if your feed water pressure is too low. It is for helping the RO pushing the output into a pressurized tank, and nothing more. A booster pump, on the other hand, maybe useful. You need to find the pressue of the input/feed line when the RO is off and on to find out if you need the booster pump.

From your number, either your meter is faulty, or both your RO and DI is doing squat... :(
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
I agree with the booster pump suggestion. You may also want to replace the orifice style flow restrictor device on your membrane waste water line with an adjustable flow restrictor. This will allow you to adjust the ratio between product water and waste water, which will improve the rejection rate of the membrane. My 75 gpd membrane is supposed to be have a 1 to 3.75 ratio.
 
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Anonymous

Guest
I hooked up the new RO/DI.

Straight water = 351
RO water = 35
DI = 0-1

I think I am going to burn through DI cartridges.

How long do you think the DI will last?
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Anonymous

Guest
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David Magen":31fn5620 said:
From your number, either your meter is faulty, or both your RO and DI is doing squat... :(

Well, I just got this meter, could it need calibrating? I figured it would be okay right out of the box.

I completely stripped down my filter, rinsed everything, and then changed the two prefilters. Now I Get a little bit better, (around 40) but still not good.

What should I do? Should I buy a booster pump and see if that solves the problem? If the water hasn't been going through the RO membrane for the last 2 years, could it have been burning out my DI really fast? Should I get new di and a new membrane and see what the water comes out as then?

B
B
 
A

Anonymous

Guest
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Bingo, do you know what your house pressure is? I would bet that's your problem. You should be getting a reading of 0 when starting out at 55. Your membrane should last you quite a while I think.

Regards, Eric
 

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