Ok, As boring as it is sitting through my physics 202 "Electricity and circuits" class, I did take note of the lecture dealing with household appliances overloading the standard sockets around a typical house....This brought me to wonder about my new tank and all the voltage and amps that it will need to power my equipment....I have a 130gal im setting up with 3 175watt halides, an iwaki mdrxlt40, and a Euro-Reef w/a 3500Sedra pump, will be plugged into the same outlet....Will this 1 outlet be able to handle the electric demand of the equipment?....And do I need to add a certain breaker or something to increase my voltage through this socket?? As you can see im still confused in this class...lol
Lots of equipment plugged into 1 outlet?
- Thread starter oimate84
- Start date
Most outlets are good for 15 amps of power. Most wiring is also rated at 15 amps. Most outlets in the same room are on the same circuit breaker, which is probably also rated at 15 amps.
What this means: There's absolutely no difference between plugging into one or a bazillion outlets when they're on the same circuit, as long as the power they draw doesn't exceed 15 amps.
At 120 volts, 15 amps is approximately 1800 watts. So, total everything up and see where you stand. I think you'll find that you're nowhere near that much power.
There are other safety factors, like the age of the outlets, wiring, type of wire (solid copper, aluminum, etc) type of circut breaker or fuse, etc. Generally, the older it is, the more careful you have to be about going close to the limit.
Steve
What this means: There's absolutely no difference between plugging into one or a bazillion outlets when they're on the same circuit, as long as the power they draw doesn't exceed 15 amps.
At 120 volts, 15 amps is approximately 1800 watts. So, total everything up and see where you stand. I think you'll find that you're nowhere near that much power.
There are other safety factors, like the age of the outlets, wiring, type of wire (solid copper, aluminum, etc) type of circut breaker or fuse, etc. Generally, the older it is, the more careful you have to be about going close to the limit.
Steve
Steve,
Thanks for the insight...Makes sense now, that if you give an appliance a set voltage, then the appliance will give you back a certain amount of amps....I think im in the safe zone with the tank appliances, but like you said, all outlets in a room are on the same circuit, so I have to include computer/printers/and other minor stuff, but in all i think im in the clear...I have one more question...If im under the 15amps or so like you mentioned, will all 3 halide bulbs burn at its brightest? or if theres a heavy load, will they tend to dim? this also came to thought...thanks
Thanks for the insight...Makes sense now, that if you give an appliance a set voltage, then the appliance will give you back a certain amount of amps....I think im in the safe zone with the tank appliances, but like you said, all outlets in a room are on the same circuit, so I have to include computer/printers/and other minor stuff, but in all i think im in the clear...I have one more question...If im under the 15amps or so like you mentioned, will all 3 halide bulbs burn at its brightest? or if theres a heavy load, will they tend to dim? this also came to thought...thanks
I don't know too much about the physics and electronics of MH bulbs, but I would guess that MH bulbs are more similar to flourescent bulbs than to incandescent, in that both MH and flourescent use a gas discharge.
Therefore, for both of those types of bulbs, if the bulb is lit, then it should be at nearly full brightness.
Pumps on the other hand probably do run slightly slower with increased load (because of the reduced voltage, remember that voltage, amperage, and resistance (wattage) are all interrelated).
In general, this all depends on is your entire house circuit. If your house has say, a 200 amp supply, then it should have no problem regulating a constant voltage to a single 15 or 20A circuit. (essentially, you should have no voltage drop from increased load because the circuit breaker will always be compensating for the load)
The easiest way to check this is to look at an incandescent bulb as you turn on another high load (1000W hair dryer, 600-800W microwave, or similar) on and off. If the bulb changes brightness, then the increased load is dropping the voltage to that circuit, which will cause the pumps to run slower. (note: many hairdryers are 1500W, and thats a significant portion of the 1800W that your 15A circuit will be able to draw, and will almost definately cause dimming or a circuit to blow)
Older houses have only 40A or 60A main supply lines, and have a tougher time regulating the voltage to a single circuit, and you may notice more significant dimming on the circuit with high or medium load. There things aren't really much to worry about, and are fairly normal from what I've experienced.
Note: I'm not an electrician, and don't really know that much about home wiring, I just have a background in electronics, which applies many of the same principles. So, you better double-check everything I say.
Steve
Therefore, for both of those types of bulbs, if the bulb is lit, then it should be at nearly full brightness.
Pumps on the other hand probably do run slightly slower with increased load (because of the reduced voltage, remember that voltage, amperage, and resistance (wattage) are all interrelated).
In general, this all depends on is your entire house circuit. If your house has say, a 200 amp supply, then it should have no problem regulating a constant voltage to a single 15 or 20A circuit. (essentially, you should have no voltage drop from increased load because the circuit breaker will always be compensating for the load)
The easiest way to check this is to look at an incandescent bulb as you turn on another high load (1000W hair dryer, 600-800W microwave, or similar) on and off. If the bulb changes brightness, then the increased load is dropping the voltage to that circuit, which will cause the pumps to run slower. (note: many hairdryers are 1500W, and thats a significant portion of the 1800W that your 15A circuit will be able to draw, and will almost definately cause dimming or a circuit to blow)
Older houses have only 40A or 60A main supply lines, and have a tougher time regulating the voltage to a single circuit, and you may notice more significant dimming on the circuit with high or medium load. There things aren't really much to worry about, and are fairly normal from what I've experienced.
Note: I'm not an electrician, and don't really know that much about home wiring, I just have a background in electronics, which applies many of the same principles. So, you better double-check everything I say.
Steve
Oh boy.
I am in trouble then.
Here is what I got plugged into a 15 amp circiut.
Outlet 1
250W HQI MH Ballast
Icecap 660 - running 2 95W VHO's
Mag12
Mag9
3000W Ebo jagger Heater
2 icecap fans in the hood.
5 maxijet powerheads (Would love to make a close loop with one pump)
Outlet 2
36 inch TV
Stereo
DVD player
CD Player
VCR
Satelite reciever
Xbox/PS2
Track Lighting running 6 Halogen spot lights
Last Christmas before I had the halide and CVHO's when we plugged in the Christmas tree and turned on the DVD player we blew the circuit.
I live in a condo so I dont have the option for more power.
Thanks for making me nuts now! :evil:
_________________
Mercedes Benz Econic
I am in trouble then.
Here is what I got plugged into a 15 amp circiut.
Outlet 1
250W HQI MH Ballast
Icecap 660 - running 2 95W VHO's
Mag12
Mag9
3000W Ebo jagger Heater
2 icecap fans in the hood.
5 maxijet powerheads (Would love to make a close loop with one pump)
Outlet 2
36 inch TV
Stereo
DVD player
CD Player
VCR
Satelite reciever
Xbox/PS2
Track Lighting running 6 Halogen spot lights
Last Christmas before I had the halide and CVHO's when we plugged in the Christmas tree and turned on the DVD player we blew the circuit.
I live in a condo so I dont have the option for more power.
Thanks for making me nuts now! :evil:
_________________
Mercedes Benz Econic
Rob_Reef_Keeper":3gt681er said:
I think those halogen's are the killer. I bet they're 100W each. Are they on a dimmer? That would help a lot as well -- just make sure not to run them at full brightness.
You should total everything else up and see what you get., I bet a lot of that stuff isn't as powerful as you think. Also remember that the sticker on the back of the appliances is going to list the *maximum* power, not the average, so if its more than 1800W, you can still squeak by. This is especially important for things like TVs, which have high startup power, and fairly low regular power usage.
Oh, and by the way, I think the Ebo Jager is an electronically controlled heater, and will almost never use the full 300W that its rated for.
If you're *really* paranoid, you can go out and buy a multimeter with amerage measurement, like a Fluke 111. It can measure the amperage usage of an entire circuit or a single appliance.
Steve
A couple of things to add.
The way to figure out if you've got enough power (amps)
(West VirginiA)
W=V*A
Watts=Volts * Amps
So, if you've got all your power ratings in either watts or amps. Most pumps/motors give ratings in watts. (remember that 1 horsepower = 764 watts. that's a big pump, but I digress. . .)
Volts in this equasion can be given as 110. (Actually, it's closer to 115 or 117. so 110 is playing it safe.)
Watts = 110 * Amps
or Watts / 110 = amps.
Go to your breaker box, and look at the breaker switches. they will either have a 15 or a 20 on them. That's the rating of the circuit. (Most homes built/reno'd since the 70's have 12 guage wiring. the wiring can hold 20 amps.)
So do the math, and figure if you've got enough amperage.
Most things use less juice than you think.
Check the ratings on the back of the gear. you'll be supprised.
B
The way to figure out if you've got enough power (amps)
(West VirginiA)
W=V*A
Watts=Volts * Amps
So, if you've got all your power ratings in either watts or amps. Most pumps/motors give ratings in watts. (remember that 1 horsepower = 764 watts. that's a big pump, but I digress. . .)
Volts in this equasion can be given as 110. (Actually, it's closer to 115 or 117. so 110 is playing it safe.)
Watts = 110 * Amps
or Watts / 110 = amps.
Go to your breaker box, and look at the breaker switches. they will either have a 15 or a 20 on them. That's the rating of the circuit. (Most homes built/reno'd since the 70's have 12 guage wiring. the wiring can hold 20 amps.)
So do the math, and figure if you've got enough amperage.
Most things use less juice than you think.
Check the ratings on the back of the gear. you'll be supprised.
B
I have a problem with having only 1 outlet available and I was going to put 3 Icec cap ballasts (for 3 different systems, 1 halide & 2 vho). But I decided to e-mail icecap about that.
The tech recommended that I did not put more then 80% of the maximum amperage, so no more then 12 amps (on a 15 amp breaker). The reason being that the ballasts energy spike when opened and if I had 3 ballasts go on at the same time I would trip the fuse.
Cheers,
Veng68
The tech recommended that I did not put more then 80% of the maximum amperage, so no more then 12 amps (on a 15 amp breaker). The reason being that the ballasts energy spike when opened and if I had 3 ballasts go on at the same time I would trip the fuse.
Cheers,
Veng68
More than likely most of us, do push our wall sockets pretty close to the limit...two things are possible when you over current things, either A) your circuit breaker trips or B) you blow out your equipment..Surge Protectors will not for the most part protect from brown outs..Thats a big spike on the A.C. line in a quick period of time...So dont rely on your surge protectors like a false god...Definitely back it up with a GFCI...In apt situations most people are stuck with a limited number of outlets, and unless you wanna go to extents to get permission its usually best left alone, however home owners can find an electrician and have them install another outlet..They know what they are doing if you explain the situation with them...they can hook you right up ..
8)
.. 8)
A circuit breaker should only be loaded to 80% of is rated capacity if the load is considered continous. Continuous is defined as "any load that would normally be on for 3 hours." I think our tanks would definately be considered continuous. Plus, pumps have start-up currents that could trip the breaker if it is too heavily loaded.
Bingo, you got two digits backwards. 1 HP = 746W, not 764 .
Louey
Bingo, you got two digits backwards. 1 HP = 746W, not 764
.Louey
Okay, here are some formulas for do electrical calculations, assuming that it is all single phase AC.
E = Voltage (volts)
I = Current (amperes)
W = Watts (watts)
E X I=W
W/E = I
W/I = E
Your Iwaki pump draws 1.3 amps at 115V (according to the pumps selection guide) 1.3 X 115 = 149.5 Watts
The Sedra 3500 draws 35 watts according to the pump selection guide.
Your 3 175W watt halides = 525 watts.
This all adds up to only 709.5 watts.
Your circuit can safely handle a continous load of 115V X 15A X 80% = 1380 watts.
What else is plugged into this circuit? Do you have any more powerheads, heaters, or anything else tank related?
Other things in the room that are not continuous could allow for the circuit to be loaded a little more before you experience any problems with breaker tripping.
When I moved last year, I did not have time to run a dedicated circuit to my tank. I have all kinds of stuff on the circuit, two fish tanks, refugium, TV, VCR, etc. If both tank lights are on, and the refugium (there is a little overlap in photoperiods) and IF wifey plugs the iron, boom! Breaker trips! Lesson to learn = wife should not iron while I am watching a movie with all 3 tanks lit at the same time. lol
Louey
E = Voltage (volts)
I = Current (amperes)
W = Watts (watts)
E X I=W
W/E = I
W/I = E
Your Iwaki pump draws 1.3 amps at 115V (according to the pumps selection guide) 1.3 X 115 = 149.5 Watts
The Sedra 3500 draws 35 watts according to the pump selection guide.
Your 3 175W watt halides = 525 watts.
This all adds up to only 709.5 watts.
Your circuit can safely handle a continous load of 115V X 15A X 80% = 1380 watts.
What else is plugged into this circuit? Do you have any more powerheads, heaters, or anything else tank related?
Other things in the room that are not continuous could allow for the circuit to be loaded a little more before you experience any problems with breaker tripping.
When I moved last year, I did not have time to run a dedicated circuit to my tank. I have all kinds of stuff on the circuit, two fish tanks, refugium, TV, VCR, etc. If both tank lights are on, and the refugium (there is a little overlap in photoperiods) and IF wifey plugs the iron, boom! Breaker trips! Lesson to learn = wife should not iron while I am watching a movie with all 3 tanks lit at the same time. lol
Louey
Sponsor Reefs
We're a FREE website, and we exist because of hobbyists like YOU who help us run this community.
Click here to sponsor $10:
